multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I'm wrapping up a A4-M6 swap, the trans I am using was from a running car, very low miles, the shifter moved through all gears completely normally sitting on garage floor for a year, all new clutch parts including MC and slave. and I had everything in the car working normally other than not bleeding the system before winter BC I needed help with that the car sat for months. Now we finally got it started again and I can't get into Reverse or most of the forward (in the pattern, I believe its 1/3rd) It is very notchy dropping down into 2/4 not sure I'm getting it into 6 either. We definately had it in reverse some point last year as it was backed away from a lift for storage. Nothing on the trans was touched other than to do the bleeding the Slave was removed and replaced a few times.... We've tried rocking the car back and forth, turning the wheels with it off the ground, nothing seems to be making sense here. Should I pull the shifter out? its a OEM one and I never took it off yet??? I'm just stumped and have people telling me that the trans is bad which I find ridiculous as it has like 30k miles if that...

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Can you get it in gear with the motor off? If so, then you need to bleed your hyd.

If you can't get into gear with motor off and it's only the foward-facing gears, check the shifter out. It could be loose (rivets), broken, or the shifter cup inside the trans that it attaches to, could be broken.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

i have a fool proof way to solve your problem...GET A B&M SHIFTER! the stock one is crap and will destroy your tranny in time cause of the sloppy shifting it allows. but most likely the culprit is you hydrologics.

slp_z28

hydro-logics, eh?

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

darn right...the true science of our shitty disengagement/ engagement issues

squalor

iTrader: (3)

No it's not, it's Abracadabrics.

squalor

iTrader: (3)

Get a Mityvac, Tick remote bleeder and Tick master cylinder. In that order.
The vac will let you pull air from the reservoir. Air rises so why try to get it out from under the car ? The remote bleeder will let you pull air from the top of the slave and makes bleeding so much easier.
The Tick master has a large, insulated hydraulic line and it's modded Tilton cylinder moves more fluid than the GM unit. That helps it drive better. It's adjustable clutch pedal rod lets you bleed with no pressure on the cylinder from the rod. Then you can adjust the rod to pre-load the cylinder a bit so the plunger is just about to cover the reservoir inlet; taking up any free play in the pedal. That helps you bleed easier.
If you start in reverse, does the car lurch back a little ?

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the suggestions, if I wasn't clear before, the issue is that the shifter won't physically go into several different gears, it seems like its 1/3/6/R but not sure as I can't drive the car at this point at all. I have the mighty vac and did use it, the hydralics are all new stock type parts as is the clutch itself. I have been able to get the car to move forward in 2nd and the clutch engagement feels normal and doesn't sounds strange etc. I do have a stock shifter and I think that will be the next thing we look at here....