major wheel hop question.
12-30-2003, 07:37 PM
#1
major wheel hop question. ok, small issue here, i have control arms, relo brackets, bmr torque arm, and nittos with 12bolt and 4.10s. unless i dump the clutch it wont do a smooth burnout from a roll it will start hopping bad. anyone had this problem or knows what might be wrong.
12-30-2003, 09:03 PM
#5
would pinion angle cause this, or maby the tires just keep trying to hook and wont slip so the entire car bounces. i know stiffer springs would do a little but they suck for drag racing. and wouldnt drag shocks just allow better transfer, it would still bounce one it squated right. maby cold tires? just thinking out loud.
12-30-2003, 09:42 PM
#6
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Too low of tire pressure will cause wheel hop. I have run as low as 11.5 psi in 315/35/17 nittos at the track. This is to low and the tire will try to cup or wrinkel the tread on the track. This causes tireshake. A set of adjustable drag shocks will be helpfull also. What pinion angle are you running? Are you measuring it from the pinion yoke to the rear driveshaft yoke? Not enough pinion angle may cause it as well. Just don't run more than -4* at the track. And when riding around on the street it is recommended to run between 0 and -1.
Brad
Brad
12-30-2003, 10:53 PM
#7
Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
Too low of tire pressure will cause wheel hop. I have run as low as 11.5 psi in 315/35/17 nittos at the track. This is to low and the tire will try to cup or wrinkel the tread on the track. This causes tireshake. A set of adjustable drag shocks will be helpfull also. What pinion angle are you running? Are you measuring it from the pinion yoke to the rear driveshaft yoke? Not enough pinion angle may cause it as well. Just don't run more than -4* at the track. And when riding around on the street it is recommended to run between 0 and -1.
Brad
Brad
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12-31-2003, 12:09 AM
#8
25 psi is way too much for a 6-speed when using drag radials. I've always found 18-20 psi to be the perfect range on them. Just a little peel out to clean them off is all it took.
I didn't see lowering springs on your mod list. If your car isn't lowered, you definitely do not need relocation brackets. I was cutting 1.6s on Nittos, and 1.4s on slicks with the factory LCA locations in my 6-speed Formula.
Airbag at 20 psi in the right rear spring was also very helpful.
Tony
I didn't see lowering springs on your mod list. If your car isn't lowered, you definitely do not need relocation brackets. I was cutting 1.6s on Nittos, and 1.4s on slicks with the factory LCA locations in my 6-speed Formula.
Airbag at 20 psi in the right rear spring was also very helpful.
Tony
12-31-2003, 08:16 AM
#10
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Lower hole will make more bite and "should" fight
wheel hop. Now, the 12-bolt is -hopefully- the same
geometry as the stocker and relo brackets do the
right thing. But it's also a heavier piece and once
launched might be harder to settle down (shocks
are to be selected to damp the unsprung weight).
Need to know if it's wheel hop or axle hop too.
If both wheels jump up it's got to be instant center
(control arm geometry). If it's only one, right wheel
lifts & skips, this might be more driveshaft-axle
torque reaction and you'd want to fix this with
air bag, stouter rear sway, that kind of thing.
wheel hop. Now, the 12-bolt is -hopefully- the same
geometry as the stocker and relo brackets do the
right thing. But it's also a heavier piece and once
launched might be harder to settle down (shocks
are to be selected to damp the unsprung weight).
Need to know if it's wheel hop or axle hop too.
If both wheels jump up it's got to be instant center
(control arm geometry). If it's only one, right wheel
lifts & skips, this might be more driveshaft-axle
torque reaction and you'd want to fix this with
air bag, stouter rear sway, that kind of thing.
