mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

Ok ladies and gentlemen always another issue in the life of my z28. The front most header bolt on the passanger side became horrible rusted and stripped and its not even old ........... Long story short the header gasket is basically disintigrated and it is ticking so loud because it is leaking so horribly. I refuse to drive the car. Any tips on getting this sucker out when is say the bolt is stripped its basically round

conan

iTrader: (5)

So the head of the bolt is rounded off ? Can you remove the head your self?

mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

Yes the head of the bolt is rounded off, how and why would i remove the head when the header is attatched?? its not a head bolt its a header bolt

conan

iTrader: (5)

I know its a header bolt. You can try vice grips and see if it will brake loose. Chances are it won't, so I would cut the head of the bolt off. Remove the header and see if the long part of the bolt sticking out of the head can be removed with vice grips. If that doesn't work you'll have to remove the head and take it to a machine shop and let them get it out.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Just like conan said, remove the head of the bolt, drop the header out of there, and the bolt will probably come out easily. Once you remove the pressure of the header, unless the threads are rusted or lock tited, the bolt should come out easily.

mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

ok what works best to cut the head of the bolt off in this situation?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Small air tool with a grinding tip

Before you do that, buy a cheap 3/8 shallow 12pt socket and hammer onto the rounded bolt. Stock bolts are 10mm, and 3/8" is slightly smaller. If 3/8 slides over freely and doesnt remove it, go to 9mm

Generally, a steel bolt into aluminum cyl head is not going to be easy to remove with the head ground off and drilling the stuck shaft out is even harder in the tight confines of a 4th gen engine bay

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

Had that happen to me, unfortunately the bastard broke off flush with the head, nothing to grab. The upside, no leaks, the ARH flange has maintained it's seal without that bolt (outer bolt on cylinder 1)

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

A dremel would work to cut the bolt head. A buddy and I had to cut off some stripped manifold bolts on his civic this past weekend and the dremel took them right off. Was able to use a stud extractor to pull the rest of the bolt out. Now the civic has studs that hold the exhaust manifold on with nuts so it was fairly easy and there was enough of the stud left to get the extractor on. Hopefully there is enough left when/if you cut it. Like mentioned above there isn't a lot of room in our engine bays but where your bolt is located you should be able to do it with not too much of a problem.

mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

i was told to try using a MAP torch get the bolt nice and glowing hot and try to fanangle one of those sockets mentioned by pocket previously on there and see if i can get it out. how do u guys feel about that

daschra79

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend cutting the bolt head off like stated above, How long have these bolts been installed for? Do you know if they are have locktite on them?

If you do try heating it up and beating a socket on it make sure to let it cool down, otherwise you will just end up rounding the bolt head more since it is still soft.

mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

Theyve been in maybe 8 months no locktite on them at all

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

go to autozone or wherever and get a set of irwin(forgot what they're called) sockets that have the grooves inside. you have to force it on the head of the bolt and when you turn it it bites into it and grips. i've used them at least 3 times on rounded off bolts and they've worked everytime.

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100512

that's what they look like.

Z28_LT1

iTrader: (2)

this looks like it would work. otherwise you're gonna be stuck with pulling that head....

you got a picture of said rounded bolt?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Go back to the guy who said to heat the bolt and boot him in the ***. Heating the bolt will make it expand and tighter in the hole it’s threaded into, in this case, your cylinder head. Fail.

I’d first try beating on a smaller socket. Fail? Move to the Irwin extractor. Fail? Cut the bolt’s head off then remove the header and go to work on the stud remaining.

Before starting, get some PB Penetrating Catalyst. Spray it everywhere so it makes it to the threads. Tap the bolt a bit, spray it down more, it’ll get in there. Once it starts turning, more spray. Back and forth if it’s still stubborn to clear the threads and work the lube in.

Once it’s out, carefully run a cleaning or bottoming tap through the threads.

Is this a stainless steel bolt?

You're lucky this is a forward bolt.

This job requires band aids and beers.

Good luck!

99T/AVert

iTrader: (5)

+1 on this! Great tool for any DIYer

joecar

Sears/Craftsman also has sets of those, very handy.

99T/AVert

iTrader: (5)

There is also something called the gator grip sock but I think once the head is gone then its too late for that tool, not sure though.

LeftySS

iTrader: (17)

This just happened to me this winter. Just grind off the head of the bolt and remove with vice grips. Tried the Irwin method and that didn't work either.

mvrotc

iTrader: (4)

just so you guys know i was able to cut the head of the bolt off and extract the stud with an irvin socket :-) exhaust is now all sealed up and new cam runs like a champ