SSmith

Sorry guys I did a search but couldn't find my answers.

1. Should I replace the rear crankshaft oil seal Part# 89060436? How is this done? Risks? Current one is not leaking.

2. Should I replace the pilot bearing? If so is this what I need...Part# 14061685 Roller Pilot Bearing?

I ordered the following from Tick Performance

(LS7CK) GM LS7 Clutch Kit
(TAMCKFB) Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
(15046288) GM Slave Cylinder & Throwout Bearing
(TPSBL) Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line

3. Did I miss anything?

Thanks

bmartin8

Depending on how many miles are on the car, the pilot bearing is optional. Some guys replace them, some guys dont. I didnt replace mine. Not sure about the seal, but if you got the money, I would just replace it all to be on the safe side.

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

It's a bitch to do the tranny anyways so if it were me I would:

-change the seal
-intall new pilot bearing or bushing

The clutch kit should come with a new pilot bearing. The new slave will be complete with the new t/o bearing on it. Also get new flywheel bolts and some blue locktite. Locktite the flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

+1. i just ordered my ls7 clutch. i also ordered the seal, and all bearings. i also ordered 4qts sycromesh fluid. i think tick gives you new bolts, if not you will need new flywheel and pplate bolts.
i think the ls2 uses the roller bearing and the ls1 uses a different one.

SSmith

I have 25,000 miles on my car.

So a "Pilot Bushing" is on a LS1 and a "Roller Pilot Bearing" is on a LS2?

I'm not sure if I'm getting a pilot bushing with the clutch kit so I'll wait until it comes in and then get one. Which one should I buy? I found a Roller Bearing (Part# 14061685) on SDPARTS.com is that what I need?

That rear crankshaft oil seal (Part# 89060436) is it hard to replace?
If it is not leaking should I just leave it alone. I don't want to screw up and not install it correctly.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Both the Bushing and Bearing are on the LS1..one is Bronze(I have this type) and the other is a Roller Bearing.

BALLSS

IMHO if your rear main seal is not leaking...don't touch it.....

pilot bushing/bearing I would replace if it has over 25k mi or shows ANY sign of wear

Clutch kits typically include a bearing/bushing. use a blind hole puller to remove. Harbor freight has them for low $

SSmith

Thanks ******

Will do.

CAMJAG

iTrader: (34)

Let us know if the LS7 clutch kit comes with a pilot bearing, bushing, flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Should replace the pilot bushing any time you're doing a clutch. Might as well do a slave and speed bleeder as well.

CAMJAG

iTrader: (34)

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought there is just a pilot bearing on an ls1 car. What is the bushing, or are you guys calling the bearing a bushing?

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

my car was built with a pilot bearing bushing, and i imagine othe LS1 f-bodies were too. however, the part number you have for a roller bearing will work. its just a little more expensive than the bushing. i would use the bearing instead of the bushing for how little more it costs, unless your clutch kit comes with a bushing and you just dont feel like spending the extra 20 or so dollars on a actual bearing.

aerojt

iTrader: (4)

Anybody lube the pilot bearing? It seems kind of "dry" new out of the package, not sure if I should pack it or not... Thanks for the input.

BALLSS

The "bearing" should be pre-lubed. I put a thin layer of high temp wheel bearing grease on tranny shaft tip. also use high temp bearing grease on shaft spline, just enough to fill groves. take clutch disc and slide it on shaft. Then wipe shaft and disc hub of any excess grease. You don't need much.

Do not lube/grease a "bronze bushing" pilot bearing, it is impregnated with grease.

squalor

iTrader: (3)

I've heard of mixing 1qt of syncromesh with 3 qts of ATF but never straight syncromesh. I'm using 4qts of the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Heard bad things about Royal Purple.