LS swap clutch fork hits firewall
#1
Staging Lane
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Location: Long Beach Ca
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LS swap clutch fork hits firewall
I am putting an LQ4 in my 73 with a muncie M21, lakewood scatter shield, centerforce 12" DF clutch, Mcloud swap flywheel (0.4" thicker to supposedly put the clutch in the stock SBC location). I am using 1" setback swap plates that place the LS in the stock location. I put the engine with trany mounted in and everything lined up as stock (motor mounts and trany mount) but then I noticed that the clutch fork hit the firewall when the TO bearing touched the clutch, meaning the point in the fork's travel where the TO bearing touches the clutch fingers and begins to disengage the clutch. this issue really confuses me because although most of components are different from my SBC setup they should be dimensionally the same and located in exactly the same spot in the car but I never had this happen with the SBC and I am using the same fork. my questions are:
How far does the TO bearing need to move to fully disengage the clutch once it touches it?
I think it would work if I used the longer style TO bearing (6 cylinder type) but it has a beveled contact face, would this cause a problem?
any thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks for reading
How far does the TO bearing need to move to fully disengage the clutch once it touches it?
I think it would work if I used the longer style TO bearing (6 cylinder type) but it has a beveled contact face, would this cause a problem?
any thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks for reading
#2
Don't forget to check the length on the pivot ball stud for the clutch fork.....There are different lengths and it makes a big difference.....
Ken
Ken
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thanks for the reply kwhizz, thats a good point, the way I see it there are 2 factors I can mess with as a starting point, the TO and the Pivot ball. does anyone have any links to info on setting up the clutch fork? all I know is that the for should be angled at
5*-7* to the front of the engine when the TO contacts the clutch but I need more geometric info if I have to start messing with everything.
5*-7* to the front of the engine when the TO contacts the clutch but I need more geometric info if I have to start messing with everything.
#4
TECH Junkie
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When I set up my Richmond 6 speed, I needed to adjust the pivot stud and use a longer throwout bearing.
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/file...ation_Tips.pdf
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/file...ation_Tips.pdf
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
#5
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thanks for the links gary, your vett is awesome love the side pipes and i plan on making an air box like your to use my scoop as well.
could anyone with a 3rd gen nova or 1st gen camero tell me where the clutch for is positioned with a stock style set up. I cant for the life of me remember where the fork used to be so i cant figure out what happened. the centerforce clutch has bent bent diaphragm fingers does this mean I should use a rounded face TO bearing?
here is some pics of the problem.
here is where the engine sits
pic of clutch
could anyone with a 3rd gen nova or 1st gen camero tell me where the clutch for is positioned with a stock style set up. I cant for the life of me remember where the fork used to be so i cant figure out what happened. the centerforce clutch has bent bent diaphragm fingers does this mean I should use a rounded face TO bearing?
here is some pics of the problem.
here is where the engine sits
pic of clutch