venom 13

iTrader: (7)

I currently have a stock suspension and am pushing 400rwhp and should be going up to 450rwhp. I will be doing the occasional street run and very few track passes and want to know if what I have in my "cart" (see picture) is worth the money or is there another way or brand I should go with to lower my costs. Or do I need more parts or less parts to help with this. Once again, the car will mainly be doing street pulls and might see the track 2 times a year.


These are all UMI parts. (Tower brace also in cart, but not pictured.)




Thank you,

Matt

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

Forgot to mention the car will be getting lowered 1.5 and will be eventually running true duals.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, get LCA's that are at least adjustable on one end (roto-joint), and get SFC's (weld-in) instead of a STB

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

So get just the single adjustable LCAs instead of the double adj or the non-adj.? Not sure what STB stands for, but is it safe to say that it has to do with bolt connectors?

Would the sub-frame connectors be a better first step suspension mod than the above listed? I understand that they make the frame more rigid, but would mean they would be better aat eliminating wheel hop and putting power to the ground more-so than the other parts listed?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Do what you planned above in your list but, instead of getting the Strut tower brace, get the SFC's. As far as the Lower rear control arms at least get the single adjustable,(w/roto-joints) but if it's within you budget get the double adjustable (w/roto-joints).

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Thanks for considering UMI Performance! Your aren't wasting your $ at all. Your vehicle is going to handle and perform completely different. The list that you have above is great but just another suggestion for you. Like everyone else mentioned not eliminate the Strut Tower Brace (STB) and go with a set of SFC's to help with not only weight transfer but they will also keep the body solid.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

get the single adjustable lower control arms. And get bolt on Sub frame connectors before the tower brace. (you can always weld the sub frames to the car later on.) That way you can install everything yourself.

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

OK thank you all for the responses.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Ditch the STb it is a waste of money. Get some 2pt. SFC's. If you lower you HAVE to get decent shocks or it will ride like a large corny turd. With good shocks you may not have wheel hop and won't need LCA's with relo brackets. I am lowered on Konis nd cut 1'6x 60's no wheel hop. When my TFS heads go on in a couple weeks I will be cutting low 1.5x-high 1.4x 60's so I may need them at that point You can always pick them up later if you need them like I will. The TA and TA relo kit will help with wheel hop also. I have a TA relo kit waiting to go on but will run the OEM TA til funds allow the upgrade or it breaks. I have a double adjustabe double rod ended UMI PHB and would get it just for convienence of adjusting and tweaking while the car is on the ground.

Breathing Fire

SOM is right you may not need the relo brackets. They won't hurt, but you might not need them. I would say always go Adj. if you can. I didn't at first and needed them later. The STB some say is a waste. I have one and like it. You won't notice it when/if you get it, but when it isn't there you will notice. I did it mostly for looks. SFC's IMO is a must. Really tightens up the car. You will get a more rough ride, but I like it. Maybe rough isn't the word, but it does transfer impact different.

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

So the sub-frame connectors would help for a hole-shot launch a good bit?

I really new to understanding suspension mods. Could anyone break it down to me in a list style in steps (step 1 being most important)? I would like the car lowered a little, but would this have extreme adverse effects on launching out of the hole?


Thank you,

Matt

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello Matt
What a sub-frame connector does it allows the car to distribute weight transfer evenly. Therefore allowing the weight to transfer to the rear so you can put the power to the ground were needed. And the list you have above is pretty much on. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

dlk1950

Can't say if this is the right order to do suspension or not, but it works for mine.

1. SLP 3pt. bolt in SFCs.. were on car when I got it
2. UMI single adj.LCAs
3. Comp.Engr. adj.drag shocks rear
4. KYB AGX adj.shocks front...not the best but working
5. UMI tunnel mount TQ ...more for strip than street,the one you show is good choice.
6. UMI adj. panhard bar
7. MT drag radials
Car is not lowered & I have done nothing with springs, it dead hooks now, so I feel if its working leave it alone.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Sure I have a question. How does SFC's distribute weight transfer evenly?

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

I find conflict with the idea of lowering and track going together. What you've got there for street driving seems very nice. You already selected adj. phr to go with the lowering and relocation brackets. seems solid overall (minus the track thing).

Nice pieces.

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

Thanks again guys for the listing and the input.

If this car will be doing a good bit of street pulls, it should also be setup as if it were on the track, right?


Would my same selections still be good, minus lowering of the car?
Would I still need adjustable parts and relocation brackets?

Thanks again,
Matt

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Yes the parts that you have listed above would still work on a non lowered vehicle. We have a few vehicles at the shop with that same combo. And it works flawlessly. I would suggest the Adjustable Torque Arm. And what I recommend to the customers is if you have adjustable and don't need its better to not have it and need it. (Kinda limits your combination) just trying to help you only spend your hard earned $ once. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

venom 13

iTrader: (7)

OK thank you. I'll be oredering all the adjustables then.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Feel free to get in touch with me when you are ready to make your order! I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks Again
Brad

mrx8200

iTrader: (1)

On your list you have a torque arm relocation kit and a transmission mounted torque arm. I don't think you need the kit if you are going with a stock style torque arm like the one on your list. If you're looking to save money you'd save right there. Then you could upgrade to the adjustable roto-poly LCAs. Relocation brackets are a must if you are lowering.