Installed Monster Stg4 last night, all night long...
03-16-2010, 09:07 AM
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Installed Monster Stg4 last night, all night long... Started around 6:30 last night and worked til about 6:30 this morning and now I am here at work. 
Things I noticed or thought might be helpful to other DIY tech folks.
Almost impossible to remove the center console with the damn ebrake in the way. I just got it up high to remove the (7) 7MM bolts holding to the boot to the tunnel.
I found out that the previous owner(s) installed a B&M Shifter, good stuff, as well as an energy suspension trans mount.
My UMI torque arm was a bitch to remove. I unbolted the back, by the diff, trying to get enough play to drop it from the trans. Major PITA. I had it hanging while I was doing other things to prep for the clutch install, and it ended up falling out of the rubber bushing it slides into at the transmission. That was a PITA to get back into said bushing.
I did not know the style of pinion and driveshaft our cars share, unless the 12 bolt is different. Just the u-bolts holding down the open end caps on the u-joints. Be careful when you remove this, one of my end cap fell and spit out a bunch of needle bearings. I ended up just putting them back in there, and will swap out another day. I also found out I have an aluminum driveshaft, yay!
The top right transmission to bellhousing bolt is a bitch. I had to use (2) swivels to get it out properly. Then I was spinning by hand forever trying to get it free, when it was already free, just stuck in the bracket that holds the transmission vent.
A hydraulic transmission jack for lifts is a VERY wise investment if you are removing the transmission via a lift.
READ Monster's instruction on the location of the dowel pins. I matched the stock flywheel and spent about 30 minutes, and 4 broken tools to try and remove them. Ended up grinding down a chisel to needle point to fit in the small holes. Adderall has an effect of making me want to skip instructions, makes everything much clearer, and thus the idea of reading instructions is useless and a waste of time, NOT TRUE!
Be careful where you stick the speed bleed line from tick when you shove it up from the bottom. I think this broke my coolant temperature sensor. Not positive on that yet.
Be very patient when it comes to sliding the transmission back onto the bellhousing. It took (3) of us standing under a lift with a hydraulic transmission jack. You will have to fight the helper spring of the slave/TOB, but can be done without using bolts to pull the transmission into alignment. Those (2) dowels can be quite tricky to get in alignment.
The bell housing can be somewhat of a pain to get off if the dowel pins in the back of the block has seized. If you find it is coming off crooked, push it back flush and start prying on the portion that is frozen first, then remove the rest freely.
Most everything is aluminum, no need to go psycho on tightening all of these bolts with an impact.
If you install a Tick adj master, zip tie the reservoir for the master cylinder prior to bolting and installing the master. Although I had the advantage of not having to route that line back behind the brake booster, and routed it right in front. Do NOT try to remove the steering bolt for the universal joint to make more room for the master. It did nothing for me and I could only slide it about 3/4" back from its original position.
Be patient when it comes to bleeding everything. We did not preload any parts using hydraulic fluid. We did not fill the slave, nor bench bleed the master. Took us about 30 minutes, but we got it good.
Also, if you are installing a Tick adj master, I would start with a position similar to the stock piece and go from there. The engagement is perfect and will require little fine tuning to get it where I want it.
Drain the transmission prior to removing it before you spill fluid all over yourself as well as the floor and have to track it everywhere and make a slippery safety hazard. I drained mine into a pan sitting on the transmission jack and still managed to miss the pan and splattered a little on the floor. The absorball/cat litter is quite handy for these occasions, too bad mine was all the way back at the house.
I am not positive on this one, but on my old Tremec 3650, you could fill the transmission from the shifter, if that is also the case with the Tremec 56, do not install it until after you have filed it. Quite impossible to fill with a funnel. I was hoping some ATF would be at the shop I was working at, but ending up having to go to Walmart at 4AM to get ATF. I also picked up a liquid/air pump for $7 to pump it in there. Quite effective, drained the entire 1 GAL container in a matter of (2) minutes.
We also ran out of brake parts cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. We used gasoline to clean them. Seemed to work OK, and the few mechanics around agreed.
I know some, if not most of these have been posted, but here they are again, just some things I noticed.
Here is a video of some fun we had at 5AM. Decided to postpone reinstalling the y-pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LGoIvQ23ww
Things I noticed or thought might be helpful to other DIY tech folks.
Almost impossible to remove the center console with the damn ebrake in the way. I just got it up high to remove the (7) 7MM bolts holding to the boot to the tunnel.
I found out that the previous owner(s) installed a B&M Shifter, good stuff, as well as an energy suspension trans mount.
My UMI torque arm was a bitch to remove. I unbolted the back, by the diff, trying to get enough play to drop it from the trans. Major PITA. I had it hanging while I was doing other things to prep for the clutch install, and it ended up falling out of the rubber bushing it slides into at the transmission. That was a PITA to get back into said bushing.
I did not know the style of pinion and driveshaft our cars share, unless the 12 bolt is different. Just the u-bolts holding down the open end caps on the u-joints. Be careful when you remove this, one of my end cap fell and spit out a bunch of needle bearings. I ended up just putting them back in there, and will swap out another day. I also found out I have an aluminum driveshaft, yay!
The top right transmission to bellhousing bolt is a bitch. I had to use (2) swivels to get it out properly. Then I was spinning by hand forever trying to get it free, when it was already free, just stuck in the bracket that holds the transmission vent.
A hydraulic transmission jack for lifts is a VERY wise investment if you are removing the transmission via a lift.
READ Monster's instruction on the location of the dowel pins. I matched the stock flywheel and spent about 30 minutes, and 4 broken tools to try and remove them. Ended up grinding down a chisel to needle point to fit in the small holes. Adderall has an effect of making me want to skip instructions, makes everything much clearer, and thus the idea of reading instructions is useless and a waste of time, NOT TRUE!
Be careful where you stick the speed bleed line from tick when you shove it up from the bottom. I think this broke my coolant temperature sensor. Not positive on that yet.
Be very patient when it comes to sliding the transmission back onto the bellhousing. It took (3) of us standing under a lift with a hydraulic transmission jack. You will have to fight the helper spring of the slave/TOB, but can be done without using bolts to pull the transmission into alignment. Those (2) dowels can be quite tricky to get in alignment.
The bell housing can be somewhat of a pain to get off if the dowel pins in the back of the block has seized. If you find it is coming off crooked, push it back flush and start prying on the portion that is frozen first, then remove the rest freely.
Most everything is aluminum, no need to go psycho on tightening all of these bolts with an impact.
If you install a Tick adj master, zip tie the reservoir for the master cylinder prior to bolting and installing the master. Although I had the advantage of not having to route that line back behind the brake booster, and routed it right in front. Do NOT try to remove the steering bolt for the universal joint to make more room for the master. It did nothing for me and I could only slide it about 3/4" back from its original position.
Be patient when it comes to bleeding everything. We did not preload any parts using hydraulic fluid. We did not fill the slave, nor bench bleed the master. Took us about 30 minutes, but we got it good.
Also, if you are installing a Tick adj master, I would start with a position similar to the stock piece and go from there. The engagement is perfect and will require little fine tuning to get it where I want it.
Drain the transmission prior to removing it before you spill fluid all over yourself as well as the floor and have to track it everywhere and make a slippery safety hazard. I drained mine into a pan sitting on the transmission jack and still managed to miss the pan and splattered a little on the floor. The absorball/cat litter is quite handy for these occasions, too bad mine was all the way back at the house.
I am not positive on this one, but on my old Tremec 3650, you could fill the transmission from the shifter, if that is also the case with the Tremec 56, do not install it until after you have filed it. Quite impossible to fill with a funnel. I was hoping some ATF would be at the shop I was working at, but ending up having to go to Walmart at 4AM to get ATF. I also picked up a liquid/air pump for $7 to pump it in there. Quite effective, drained the entire 1 GAL container in a matter of (2) minutes.
We also ran out of brake parts cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. We used gasoline to clean them. Seemed to work OK, and the few mechanics around agreed.
I know some, if not most of these have been posted, but here they are again, just some things I noticed.
Here is a video of some fun we had at 5AM. Decided to postpone reinstalling the y-pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LGoIvQ23ww
03-16-2010, 04:51 PM
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LOL. Sounds like me about 2 months ago. I got the clutch and trans installed about 7:30 at night. I said screw it and stayed up till 2am by myself finishing the car and drove it to work the next morning. First time doing it. Now its not such a big deal.