BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Already Posted in the Detailing Section, No hits what a suprise.

Hey everyone. I recently got my first buffer which is an orbital so not to burn anything. I am one of those who like to get it right the 1st time. I will be practicing on a few cars that will be ok if I mess up. But anyways my question is for those who use the Orbital type buffers, what type of method do you like and why.

I got this buffer, its cheap but light and has a 10" surface area which has been remarked to make it faster and easier to do multiple coats.

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-22610-10...=pd_sim_auto_2



I was given a few packs of Bonnets which will fit, but most internet resources revolved around the smaller diameter foam pads and based on my research, no one offers anything in foam above 7-8"

So going from there what bonnets do I used at a given point.

Applying
Buffing
Polish
Removal

I use sources like Autotopia and Autogeek.net which are great but again are based largly on the Foam Pad method.

Any insight and possibly references are appreciated.

Also looking for good products to use with Bonnets.

I have tons or research since even originally posting this, but it seems like I need to.

Wash
Dry
Clay
Wash *if I think its needed
Swirl Remover
Polish
Glaze
Wax

Also was recommended to do a Sealant and then a coat of Carnuba Wax.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

you got it down pretty good there, except the swirl mark remover IS your polish step. it is a very mild abrasive. if your paint is really bad, you can do it in two stages, with doing a 'finishing polish' before the swirl mark remover. think of it like wet sanding in stages from rough to fine. i woudnt go any heavier than the finishing polish... as i think a compound is too dangerous for your first time doing it. i would absolutely wash the car after claybar... i guarantee you get residue that needs to be removed.

i got a porter cable dual action buffer from this site: http://properautocare.com/exteriorcare.html

there is a lot of how-to guides on this site as well.
on my black car i used:
Wash - meguiars gold class
Dry - california water blade followed by microfiber towel
Clay - meguiars store bought clay kit (they also make a professional formula that is stronger)
Swirl Remover - 3M swirl mark remover for dark cars (now renamed to perfect-it foam polishing pad glaze for dark cars). they also make a light color version
Glaze - 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
Wax - Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant, topped off with 3M Show Car Paste Wax. back when i lived in MA, i just used the paste wax, and it would last a long time, like 3+ months, even though i parked it outside. now in TX, it would last like 1 month or less, even though my car is now garaged. thats why i use the synthetic

also, as far as the bonnets go... you apply the product with the foam pad, and take it off with the microfiber bonnet. there are many types of pads for the various types of chemicals. and never use two different chemicals on the same pad.

here is a comparison chart of polish harshness:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/classic-motoring_2097_7949369

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

After you play the car absolutely wash it again. If you don't, you will stand to have clay residue or whatever you used to lubricate the clay left on the paint. I always used a soapy water mix to lubricate the clay, hose off as you go, then wash again afterwards.

I don't like the machine approach... I just do everything by hand. Decent workout doing that especially if you're doign several coats, or it's hot outside.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

All great info. Very much appreciated and I will Wash after clay. Makes most sense. I have a car that I have never clayed so it is time that gets done!!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Take your time with that, and fold, fold FOLD. Don't forget to fold that clay as often as possible, that will keep the thing picking up the max amount of dirt.

How about this, last weekend when I waxed my truck, I clayed that thing. You know how long that took

But, it looks mint now and has 2 coats of wax on it. Probably gonna try to warsh it tonight so it's done for the weekend, and then I can focus on getting the k/n intake, which by the way is 100% on my wife's car, seeing the factory airbox tab decided to crack when I went to take it off to change the air filter

Stupid plastic.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Dude that thing is paid off, time for a DIY Turbo Kit. Lol.

I will be working the Buick, and then the girls' HHR, that does not have much in scratches. I will get plenty of practice before hitting the T/A

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

oh, i forgot to add, that when you do a full detail, you wash the car with dishsoap instead of car soap to take off all the old wax.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

I just picked up a porter cable and detailing kit online. Should have it anyday. I already got a good idea on the steps invloved (basically what you guys said) I got a quite a few cars lined up ready for a detail already, its gonna be a busy summer. Clay baring is a pia, but you have to do it. If i come across any tips or hints I'll post it up. One step to consider it taping off any plastic/rubber trim when using a rotary/orbital tool.

I gotta do my dads silverado, that will probably be a weekend job.
I'm looking forward to getting it, I did everything by hand before so it will be nice to get this thing, plus I needed something more aggressive with a little cutting power. By hand its too tough, especially when you doing like half a dozen cars twice a year or so.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

My biggest issue is knowing and understanding when I need to use a more aggressive compound/polish depending on condition and type of paint. My car did not need much at all but with the 10" Bonnet, I wonder if there is enough RPM to break down and work in the polish to make it worth my while.

I still have that issue.

Joe "Preachers Sheets" DIESO

iTrader: (4)

The buffer you got is kind of a waste, your better off doing things by hand.

Cut the clay into small sections, I dont like the idea of folding it and re-using it. Cut it into like 16 small squares and when one gets used a little bit just toss it.

I detail fairly well. If you were local I'd spend a day with you and show you some stuff.

Wash the car, then rinse it, as it is still wet start claying....dont worry about drying it because you need to get the car wet again, dont worry about water spots because you'll be polishing. Then depending on how bad the car is you can do one or all compound/polish/cleaner. Then you want to protect.

You'll probably just want to wash, clay, wash, dry, polish, apply a paint prep cleaner then protect.

For protection...if your going to go with a sealent, you'll want to layer it probably every other week or whatever, dont use a glaze or a wax, sealent likes to stick to clean bare clearcoat, not a film of oil (wax) ontop of clean clear coat.

I could go on for a week non stop with detailing man...if you need simplified advice just PM me, your going to be 1,000 different ideas from everyone. One person will make the other person seem like they dont know what they're talking about then the next person will say the last person to give advice is only half right...to use their info plus theirs then someone else will tell you to scrap 50% of each of the last persons advice and use their ideas.

If you post pictures of your car I can get a good idea of what you'll be looking to do. The clearcoat correction; knowing what to use is kind of soemthing you learn as you go. I always tell people use something that you think may be a little too weak, that way the worst case scenario is you have to use the same product in the same manner and make more passes doing the same thing a few more times. You dont want to have 30 different things to pick from...........as of yet.