rahgbag

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I've been wanting to do an LSX swap forever and finally have the resources and time to do it. I've got all the fabrication stuff worked out, now I'm just debating which actual engine I want to use.

After reading a lot about LS1 vs LM7 in terms of weight and power, I finally stumbled upon the LM4. From an outsiders perspective it looks like a real gem...all aluminum block and heads, good HP numbers, etc. Is there any reason I shouldn't use the LM4?

If I do decide to use the LM4, I know that I'm going to have to use the LS1's intake manifold/throttle body, fuel rail/injectors, accesories and oil pan. Is there anything else that I should know about?

For refrence a picture of the car it's going into:



Thanks!

-Robert

Jimbo1367

nice lookin car

hefftone

Seems like by the time you by the LM4, and then all the LS1 bits, you'd be getting pretty close to stock LS1 pricing.... Also can you stroke an LM4 without having to clearance the block?

What size are those M-parallels?

rahgbag

iTrader: (1)

I was looking into the LM4 because I found one for a really good price and was wondering if there were any major downsides to using it. But that one got sold so I'm back in the market for an LS1 too.

The wheels are 18s.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Nice looking car, I like the M-Par reps.

I've been looking into this swap myself, as I have a '96 328i Cabrio just begging for some HP.

As far as the engine; if you can find the LM4 for under 1000 dollars, it's probably worth it for the swap; beyond that and you're getting into the same cost range as just getting an LS1 (and it's higher compression and more cubes/bigger valves).

You need: Intake, oilpan + pickup/windage tray, water pump, alternator brackets, alternator, tensioner, power steering and A/C + brackets. That's 500-600 dollars in stuff, easily.

FWIW, Samberg Rod And Custom is doing an E36 LSx subframe currently; should be top notch and not massively overpriced like the Nash/Vorshlag stuff. Due to the exhaust clearance issues, I'm considering a 1.5JZ swap in my car; that and I love turbos...

themachasy

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't even compare the nash and vorshlag parts- the vorshlag are pretty damn high quality and the headers are great, I've seen pics of the nash parts and am really not impressed.

rao

iTrader: (18)

Interesting. I have had some of the Nash parts installed in a car hat I have driven for 3 years and never had any problems with them. They must be junk

rahgbag

iTrader: (1)

Can't speak for the Nash parts, but I already have some of the Vorshlag parts and have seen the rest in person...they are 100% top notch.

Back on track though...any better places to look for an LM4 other than ebay, craigslist, and the forums?

robstah

iTrader: (2)

Check car-part.com for one in your area. Just look under a 2004 Buick Rainier.

As for LS1 vs LM4 pricing, here's my current pricing on the LM4:

- LM4 w/o accessories - used 100k - $500
- LS1 intake - used - $75
- LS1 intake bolts - new - $10
- LS1 fuel rail - used - $50
- LS1 throttle body - used - $50
- LS1 injectors - used - $50
- LSx/truck MAF - used - $50
- Throttle cable based ECM - used - $60 + $75 reprogramming for emissions removals/VAT/VSS change
- LS3 waterpump - new - $80
- LS3 tensioner - new - $30
- LS1 Camaro crank pulley - used - $40
- LS1 Camaro alternator bracket - new - $35
- LS6 valley cover - new - $50
- Truck starter (2 long bolts) - refurb - $50
- LS1 alternator - refurb - $60
- Lokar LS1 dipstick tube (matters on oil pan) - new - $60

= $1325

That price can vary based off of what you can get on the motor (truck alternators will work, etc) and things like LS6 valley covers aren't entirely necessary but worth the upgrade. Headers and oil pan were not included in the list, but would need to be changed on either motor anyway. The price does not include what could be made off of selling the truck injectors/intake/brackets/etc. There are also people running custom rails and truck injectors on the LS1 intake, so you might be able to save money there.

The LM4 looked brand new when I took off the oil pan and valve covers. A cam, heads, and tune should easily beat/match modded LS1s, especially when bumping the compression up with the heads. I have yet to desire a .4L difference. These motors are torquey beasts, even the 4.8L in my dad's Silverado.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

my vote is always a full pull with the engine/trans that you want, but if you cant do that or think you can get better pricing breaking it down go for it. I dont think youd notice too much difference from 5.3 to 5.7 unless the mod bug bites you down the road.

interested to see what you do with the gauges/etc

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Bump for the OP. Did you move forward with this?

Tipsy