Lightest battery recommendation for batt relocate with high compression
04-02-2010, 07:07 PM
#1
Lightest battery recommendation for batt relocate with high compression My goals this winter were to remove weight. I see alot go with the red top but it weighs 40lbs. I do not mind going that route but would like to run the lightest recommended battery for my setup that I will not have issues with. I see Braille has the 3121 that has 700ish cca and only weighs 21 lbs. Is this a decent battery to run from the rear? I have searched but could not get this issue answered. Thanks.
04-02-2010, 08:45 PM
#2
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Most of the guys with the light weight batteries are racecars.
I'm not sure how many have tried them in cars that do not get towed up to the line
and get an hour for every pass.
That might be why there's not a lot on a search for this site??
You might want to try a racing site, especially one of the Pro-Modified sites.
I don't think I'm allowed to post links to other sites here.
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Most of the guys with the light weight batteries are racecars.
I'm not sure how many have tried them in cars that do not get towed up to the line
and get an hour for every pass.
That might be why there's not a lot on a search for this site??
You might want to try a racing site, especially one of the Pro-Modified sites.
I don't think I'm allowed to post links to other sites here.
.
04-02-2010, 10:55 PM
#4
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I don't know anything about it yet, but I'm planning on getting one for one of my cars this month. Take a look > https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...=pound+battery
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04-03-2010, 11:52 AM
#5
I don't know anything about it yet, but I'm planning on getting one for one of my cars this month. Take a look > https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...=pound+battery
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04-03-2010, 06:12 PM
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A lot of us that are going with super lights are moving them up front.
Most of us run ballast anyway, so why not save all the weight from the battery cables.
Plus it helps with the load a little. Mine is going next to all my electronics in the cockpit.
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A lot of us that are going with super lights are moving them up front.
Most of us run ballast anyway, so why not save all the weight from the battery cables.
Plus it helps with the load a little. Mine is going next to all my electronics in the cockpit.
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04-04-2010, 03:39 PM
#9
Getting weight off the front end. I do not want a super lightweight race only setup sitting under the hood. This is again and all motor STREET car we are trying to get into the 9's so every little bit will help. I understand the cables weigh extra that is why I am trying to put the lightest battery I can in the back to help compensate for that.
04-04-2010, 06:32 PM
#10
Getting weight off the front end. I do not want a super lightweight race only setup sitting under the hood. This is again and all motor STREET car we are trying to get into the 9's so every little bit will help. I understand the cables weigh extra that is why I am trying to put the lightest battery I can in the back to help compensate for that.
04-04-2010, 07:38 PM
#12
I struggled with a lightweight battery up front for 2 months, finally just went back to a full size battery and problems solved. I wouldn't even think of doing a lightweight battery in the rear, then again I didn't want to spend more than 80 bucks on a fancy lightweight battery.
04-04-2010, 08:03 PM
#13
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$80 bucks, think again. Fancy costs big bucks.
NEW ULTRAlite 16 VOLT EXTREME Battery 12 lbs
$2,100.00
B168L
16 Volt - 8 lbs / 4 kg
550 Cold Cranking Amps
10" x 3.25" x 6"
Left Side Positive
MSRP $2200.00
Plus some more.
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$80 bucks, think again. Fancy costs big bucks.
NEW ULTRAlite 16 VOLT EXTREME Battery 12 lbs
$2,100.00
B168L
16 Volt - 8 lbs / 4 kg
550 Cold Cranking Amps
10" x 3.25" x 6"
Left Side Positive
MSRP $2200.00
Plus some more.
.
04-05-2010, 07:39 AM
#14
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i've got the 11lb battery in the front of my car. the cranking amps make for a bit of a rough start but itll fire up in 2-3 turns. only downside is if you live in an area where you get cold days/nights. the battery needs a tender or itll be dead in a few days depending on outside temps.also cant sit there for too long with the key on engine off. but it did take 20lbs off the nose.
04-06-2010, 06:26 PM
#16
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That's what I am most likely going to do. I just have to figure out a way to swap the mounts easily.
I've heard some guys say the lightweights are ok, but I'd rather not get stranded somewhere because of one. At the same time, I don't like the idea of moving the battery to the rear in a vehicle that does see the street - the emergency disconnect is like a beacon to get pulled over.
04-06-2010, 08:57 PM
#17
I have decided (as of right now, LOL) to run the Braille 3121. Talked with Braille and they are willing to stand behind there product if I have any issues. The batt weighs 21lbs so with the relo kit weighing maybe 10 I have still saved an easy 10lbs off the car and almost 40 off the nose. Those are gains I can live with.
04-06-2010, 10:47 PM
#19
I've had every setup you can imagine, and this XS power makes the most sense.
I highly doubt a relocation kit only weighs 10 lbs. That cable is heavy. But lets say the battery box, cut off switch, and cables weigh 15 lbs. Add 21 lbs for your battery. 36 lbs, more than likely closer to 40-43 IMO. So your 17-20 lbs heavier than my setup, and way more expensive, and way more complicated. And, I'll go on record now as saying I bet it doesn't work when you install it.
Just offering some friendly advice from a guy who has done it.
I highly doubt a relocation kit only weighs 10 lbs. That cable is heavy. But lets say the battery box, cut off switch, and cables weigh 15 lbs. Add 21 lbs for your battery. 36 lbs, more than likely closer to 40-43 IMO. So your 17-20 lbs heavier than my setup, and way more expensive, and way more complicated. And, I'll go on record now as saying I bet it doesn't work when you install it.
Just offering some friendly advice from a guy who has done it.