First time at the track with Adj. Drag Shocks, how to improve?
04-07-2010, 02:51 PM
#1
First time at the track with Adj. Drag Shocks, how to improve? This past weekend I made it over to Island Dragway to try and dial in my suspension. Those of you who are familiar with the Island know it's kind of a shitty track but I was able to get a good # of runs in. I'm racing in Pinks as well as another bracket event soon after and I unfortunately won't be able to run the car prior to make adjustments so that's why I seek some help. Here's my before and after:
Last time out with stock shocks and Strano springs:
11.71 at 115mph w/ 1.56 60' (Atco 0 DA)
With Comp. Engineering 3-ways out back and Strange SA shocks w/ 300# spring upfront:
11.62 at 116mph w/ 1.58 60" (Island +1200 DA)
I was pleased to go quicker and faster considering the DA and the track itself weren't nearly as good as the conditions when I last ran. I was hoping for some better 60' foot times so that's why I ask what can I do to improve them in terms of adjusting my shocks?...
My Comp. Engineering 3 ways are set to 50/50 out back. Would switching to 70/30 or 90/10 help? Upfront the best ET and 60' times came from setting the shocks to 0 in which I averaged 1.59 60's. Set to 1 the car would average 1.63 60's and set to 2 I would spin immediately off the launch. I realize that every track is different but if a 70/30 or 90/10 setting will generally help then that's enough for me to go ahead and pull the shocks out and try it.
Edit: IIRC you want the front of the car level to the back for the best weight transfer, correct? I had the front within .5" of the back when I ran the car.
Last time out with stock shocks and Strano springs:
11.71 at 115mph w/ 1.56 60' (Atco 0 DA)
With Comp. Engineering 3-ways out back and Strange SA shocks w/ 300# spring upfront:
11.62 at 116mph w/ 1.58 60" (Island +1200 DA)
I was pleased to go quicker and faster considering the DA and the track itself weren't nearly as good as the conditions when I last ran. I was hoping for some better 60' foot times so that's why I ask what can I do to improve them in terms of adjusting my shocks?...
My Comp. Engineering 3 ways are set to 50/50 out back. Would switching to 70/30 or 90/10 help? Upfront the best ET and 60' times came from setting the shocks to 0 in which I averaged 1.59 60's. Set to 1 the car would average 1.63 60's and set to 2 I would spin immediately off the launch. I realize that every track is different but if a 70/30 or 90/10 setting will generally help then that's enough for me to go ahead and pull the shocks out and try it.
Edit: IIRC you want the front of the car level to the back for the best weight transfer, correct? I had the front within .5" of the back when I ran the car.
Last edited by StealthFormula; 04-07-2010 at 02:58 PM.
04-07-2010, 10:45 PM
#4
LMAO with post 3 but thats very true...either way post 2 did wink at the end so I bet it was a joke. But as for the 60 ft bro, you could set to 70/30 and it might help. I know a few peeps that do use the 70/30 and it does work. But its all about the setup and the track conditions.
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04-08-2010, 11:27 AM
#9
Ball busting isn't generally in the spirit of THIS part of the forum, and to tell someone their car's slow, IMO in here, is BS.
Do that again Shownomercy and I'll ban your ***, friends with this guy or not. That's rude and uncalled for.
Now, video of the runs would be most helpful, was the car spinning right at the hit or was it doing it once the front tires were setting back down, or when it got to the end of the suspension travel, how old are the tires and what air pressure were you running?
I've been to Island a few times, the prep wasn't world class but it wasn't a nightmare either, I've seen better btu I've seen worse too. The worst part about Island, is the entrance road with 800 potholes that look like shortcuts to china.
If you have video, please post it up, that will help alot. Initially I'm going to say that you probably need to air the tires down in the rear, or try lowering the back of the car to get some more weight there. Usually level isn't the way to go about it, cars usually work better with a little rake in it. Where are your lower control arms too, if they're not pointed down in the back, you could be spinning because they're not letting the suspension plant the rear tire properly too. Usually the tires in the back should be seperating from the body some, if it's not doing that lower the rear control arms on the rear, and that should fix it (if you have the lca's in the stock factory mount, get some lca relocation brackets, and move them down one hole.
Do that again Shownomercy and I'll ban your ***, friends with this guy or not. That's rude and uncalled for.
Now, video of the runs would be most helpful, was the car spinning right at the hit or was it doing it once the front tires were setting back down, or when it got to the end of the suspension travel, how old are the tires and what air pressure were you running?
I've been to Island a few times, the prep wasn't world class but it wasn't a nightmare either, I've seen better btu I've seen worse too. The worst part about Island, is the entrance road with 800 potholes that look like shortcuts to china.
If you have video, please post it up, that will help alot. Initially I'm going to say that you probably need to air the tires down in the rear, or try lowering the back of the car to get some more weight there. Usually level isn't the way to go about it, cars usually work better with a little rake in it. Where are your lower control arms too, if they're not pointed down in the back, you could be spinning because they're not letting the suspension plant the rear tire properly too. Usually the tires in the back should be seperating from the body some, if it's not doing that lower the rear control arms on the rear, and that should fix it (if you have the lca's in the stock factory mount, get some lca relocation brackets, and move them down one hole.
04-08-2010, 12:31 PM
#10
It's ok guys Shownomercy is a friend of mine.
I didn't do hp mods to the car, just cut the baffles out of my hood so the extra 1 mph in an additional +1200 DA was definetly a suprise to me, can't complain tho lol.
I chose the 300# springs because upfront the only weight reduction I have is the A/C, AIR, EGR and front bumper support. Still on the stock k-member, stock brakes, etc. etc. and the 300#'s were recommended to me from more than one person/shop especially considering the car is a street/strip car.
I don't have any videos of the runs unfortunately.
Tires are 275/50/15's with 5 total passes on them and a couple hundred street miles before using them that day. I was running about 17psi and the tires were unloaded immediately off the hit with the front shocks set to 2. With the front shocks set to 0 or 1 the car would dead hook, just expected better short times.
LOL about the entrance road, you would think they'd pave it one of these days.
I did the hose mod to the rear springs and as you can see in my sig pic that's how the rear sits. My LCA's are pointed down in the back and are on the lowest hole on my brackets. The tires in the back are separating from the body some like it should. I guess I could blame the 60's on track prep but still wondering if a different shock setting out back may help out any. With stock shocks and lowering springs my car was dead hooking every single time I ran it no matter what track I was at, maybe the drag shocks weren't really necessary for me at my power level yet??
How much of a rake would you recommend from front to back?
I chose the 300# springs because upfront the only weight reduction I have is the A/C, AIR, EGR and front bumper support. Still on the stock k-member, stock brakes, etc. etc. and the 300#'s were recommended to me from more than one person/shop especially considering the car is a street/strip car.
Ball busting isn't generally in the spirit of THIS part of the forum, and to tell someone their car's slow, IMO in here, is BS.
Do that again Shownomercy and I'll ban your ***, friends with this guy or not. That's rude and uncalled for.
Now, video of the runs would be most helpful, was the car spinning right at the hit or was it doing it once the front tires were setting back down, or when it got to the end of the suspension travel, how old are the tires and what air pressure were you running?
I've been to Island a few times, the prep wasn't world class but it wasn't a nightmare either, I've seen better btu I've seen worse too. The worst part about Island, is the entrance road with 800 potholes that look like shortcuts to china.
If you have video, please post it up, that will help alot. Initially I'm going to say that you probably need to air the tires down in the rear, or try lowering the back of the car to get some more weight there. Usually level isn't the way to go about it, cars usually work better with a little rake in it. Where are your lower control arms too, if they're not pointed down in the back, you could be spinning because they're not letting the suspension plant the rear tire properly too. Usually the tires in the back should be seperating from the body some, if it's not doing that lower the rear control arms on the rear, and that should fix it (if you have the lca's in the stock factory mount, get some lca relocation brackets, and move them down one hole.
Do that again Shownomercy and I'll ban your ***, friends with this guy or not. That's rude and uncalled for.
Now, video of the runs would be most helpful, was the car spinning right at the hit or was it doing it once the front tires were setting back down, or when it got to the end of the suspension travel, how old are the tires and what air pressure were you running?
I've been to Island a few times, the prep wasn't world class but it wasn't a nightmare either, I've seen better btu I've seen worse too. The worst part about Island, is the entrance road with 800 potholes that look like shortcuts to china.
If you have video, please post it up, that will help alot. Initially I'm going to say that you probably need to air the tires down in the rear, or try lowering the back of the car to get some more weight there. Usually level isn't the way to go about it, cars usually work better with a little rake in it. Where are your lower control arms too, if they're not pointed down in the back, you could be spinning because they're not letting the suspension plant the rear tire properly too. Usually the tires in the back should be seperating from the body some, if it's not doing that lower the rear control arms on the rear, and that should fix it (if you have the lca's in the stock factory mount, get some lca relocation brackets, and move them down one hole.
Tires are 275/50/15's with 5 total passes on them and a couple hundred street miles before using them that day. I was running about 17psi and the tires were unloaded immediately off the hit with the front shocks set to 2. With the front shocks set to 0 or 1 the car would dead hook, just expected better short times.
LOL about the entrance road, you would think they'd pave it one of these days.
I did the hose mod to the rear springs and as you can see in my sig pic that's how the rear sits. My LCA's are pointed down in the back and are on the lowest hole on my brackets. The tires in the back are separating from the body some like it should. I guess I could blame the 60's on track prep but still wondering if a different shock setting out back may help out any. With stock shocks and lowering springs my car was dead hooking every single time I ran it no matter what track I was at, maybe the drag shocks weren't really necessary for me at my power level yet??
How much of a rake would you recommend from front to back?
Last edited by StealthFormula; 04-08-2010 at 12:37 PM.
04-08-2010, 01:31 PM
#11
about 3/4 of an inch difference, measuring with a tape, measure it so the tape is running thru the center of the wheel from the ground to the fender.
If you're going on Pinks.. I'd ditch that radial and put a slick on the car. I don't care if it loses /2 and 2 mph doing it you'll be better off if you get picked, at least it will recover if you do spin.
Radials are funny, you can't even line the car up in the same spot and have them work the same. I don't recommend that tire to anyone unless they are racing in a class that requires it.
Good thing you came in here and sid he's your buddy, that being said, that kind of stuff isn't gonna fly in here, that's what the lounge and bench ricing forum are for.
If you're going on Pinks.. I'd ditch that radial and put a slick on the car. I don't care if it loses /2 and 2 mph doing it you'll be better off if you get picked, at least it will recover if you do spin.
Radials are funny, you can't even line the car up in the same spot and have them work the same. I don't recommend that tire to anyone unless they are racing in a class that requires it.
Good thing you came in here and sid he's your buddy, that being said, that kind of stuff isn't gonna fly in here, that's what the lounge and bench ricing forum are for.
04-08-2010, 01:45 PM
#12
about 3/4 of an inch difference, measuring with a tape, measure it so the tape is running thru the center of the wheel from the ground to the fender.
If you're going on Pinks.. I'd ditch that radial and put a slick on the car. I don't care if it loses /2 and 2 mph doing it you'll be better off if you get picked, at least it will recover if you do spin.
Radials are funny, you can't even line the car up in the same spot and have them work the same. I don't recommend that tire to anyone unless they are racing in a class that requires it.
Good thing you came in here and sid he's your buddy, that being said, that kind of stuff isn't gonna fly in here, that's what the lounge and bench ricing forum are for.
If you're going on Pinks.. I'd ditch that radial and put a slick on the car. I don't care if it loses /2 and 2 mph doing it you'll be better off if you get picked, at least it will recover if you do spin.
Radials are funny, you can't even line the car up in the same spot and have them work the same. I don't recommend that tire to anyone unless they are racing in a class that requires it.
Good thing you came in here and sid he's your buddy, that being said, that kind of stuff isn't gonna fly in here, that's what the lounge and bench ricing forum are for.
Anyone want to explain the advantages/disadvantages of running a 70/30 or 90/10 shock setting out back instead of 50/50?
04-08-2010, 02:19 PM
#13
The 70/30, is going to allow the rear to compress and hold it in a compressed state, generally you don't want the car squatting, ya want it to hit the tire and then move forward, rocking backwards like that waste energy that could be moving the car forward.
Think of it as the opposite as a 90/10 for the front, that lets the nose lift and holds it up, the rear is gonna let it squat and hold it there, which ya really don't want.
I'd put the slicks on for the pinks deal.. take it from someone that got picked, consistancey is your friend.
Think of it as the opposite as a 90/10 for the front, that lets the nose lift and holds it up, the rear is gonna let it squat and hold it there, which ya really don't want.
I'd put the slicks on for the pinks deal.. take it from someone that got picked, consistancey is your friend.
04-16-2010, 10:43 AM
#17
Will do, he has been very helpful to me in the past and I have learned quite a bit from his posts.
I have a question that just popped into my head...With the front shocks set to 0 or 1 the car dead hooks. Set to 2 or anything from there on the car immediately breaks traction off the hit. Is that typical or do I need to resolve that? I'm asking because would a 2 or 3 or 4 front shock setting be more ideal assuming the car would dead hook than dead hooking on a 0 or 1 front setting?
I have a question that just popped into my head...With the front shocks set to 0 or 1 the car dead hooks. Set to 2 or anything from there on the car immediately breaks traction off the hit. Is that typical or do I need to resolve that? I'm asking because would a 2 or 3 or 4 front shock setting be more ideal assuming the car would dead hook than dead hooking on a 0 or 1 front setting?
04-16-2010, 12:15 PM
#18
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JL has given you the basic concept to get shocks set. Front = Bump tight, rebound loose... Front up, weight back and keep it there. Ultimately, the rear is going to depend on how the car hits. If your anti-squat % is way off, then you're just using the shock setting for damage control. You want the rear pushing the tires into track just enough to offset the weight transfer of the car. Think of it this way... Any movement the rear makes is energy it's wasting in an attempt to push over (squat) or under (anti-squat) the mass it's trying to push (your car).... You want it as close as possible to pushing straight through the center of mass as possible. If you're dead hooking a car with stock shocks and little to no rear suspension movement, a drag shock won't gain you a thing. You're kinda throwing darts by adjusting simply by what you feel from the driver's seat... A video is worth it's weight here 
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04-16-2010, 12:38 PM
#19
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i vote go nitrous matt, you be faster then haha. anyway yea got no clue but subscribin for JL's info when i get my shocks. If you brought your car to school matt i coulda got a video for you.... BUT NOOOO you have to have a street car you dont drive on the street
04-17-2010, 11:55 AM
#20
JL has given you the basic concept to get shocks set. Front = Bump tight, rebound loose... Front up, weight back and keep it there. Ultimately, the rear is going to depend on how the car hits. If your anti-squat % is way off, then you're just using the shock setting for damage control. You want the rear pushing the tires into track just enough to offset the weight transfer of the car. Think of it this way... Any movement the rear makes is energy it's wasting in an attempt to push over (squat) or under (anti-squat) the mass it's trying to push (your car).... You want it as close as possible to pushing straight through the center of mass as possible. If you're dead hooking a car with stock shocks and little to no rear suspension movement, a drag shock won't gain you a thing. You're kinda throwing darts by adjusting simply by what you feel from the driver's seat... A video is worth it's weight here .
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