Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm installing new bearings thru out the stock rear on my DD 2001 Z28. I have the pinion nut cranked down on the yoke as tight as I can get it with a new crush collar in there (old shim under the new lg bearing on the pinion) & there is still about a half mm of end play & of course no real pre load on it yet. I have tried an air impact wrench, a bigger air impact wrench & tonight a pipe wrench on the yoke & a breaker bar w/cheater bar on the nut & was not able to move it past where the impact wrench got it. Should it be that hard to get the collar to start to cruch down?

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

no it shouldn't, I would take the pinion nut back off and take a good look at the threads, mine cranked down easily with a cheap *** harbor freight electric impact and holding the pinion gear with my hand

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

There have been some set-ups that Ive done that have fought me through and through, and can turn into a real nightmare.
First of all, are you using the "new" nut that came in the install kit, or the old one. Use the old one to run it down, and then on the final use the new one....... The other thing I have done, and I hate to admit this, but it works....... take the crush sleeve back out, and put it in a vise and snug it up...... just so it BARELY starts to move, then put it back on the pinion and finish running the nut down. It sounds back-woods hill jack-ish I know, but sometimes you just have to "help" them start.........

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I really think the collar is being a bee-itch, got a 3/4 drive air wrench at work I'll bring home tomorrow. Will disassemble & inspect then try the 3/4 gun & if that doesn't get it I might try blk96406's method.

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

Just be CAREFUL if/when you do it, by no means is it the right way to do it, but it works......... I have had to do it on a couple Dana's that I set up for Jeeps, never had a problem from doing it that way....... What brand is the install kit?? I noticed on the ones I had to do, same "brand" kit everytime. Best of luck w/it, if something comes up, shoot me a pm-

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

The right way to do it is with a pinion holding tool like this:


I was lucky to find a machine shop that let me borow it. It took that tool to hold the pinion, and then a breaker bar with a pipe on it to turn the nut and crush the collar.

blk96406

iTrader: (18)

I actually made something very similar to that out of a piece of box tube and 1" steel gas pipe for a "handle". On the end of the pipe, I welded another piece of flat stock so I was able to c-clamp it to the lift arm on the lift, so I wouldnt have to hold it while I was pullin on the breaker bar/tq wrench, worked out pretty slick.

MikeMs01TA

iTrader: (2)

I used 2 full length jack handles, I think each are normally 3-4'. One over the wrench, the other over the ratchet. Still kinda stiff to turn, but wasn't bad at all then. Once you start crushing that collar, it gets tight very fast! From 0 in/lbs to 20-25 in/lbs was less than a foot of movement at the end of my jack handles

quicksilver383

iTrader: (3)

It's just a boitch. I hate crushing them. 7.5, 8.5, 12 bolt doesn't matter. I ended up getting a nice IR composite impact and it does the job.

Mark98SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the responses, I realized I just needed a bigger breaker bar, car jacked up off the floor higher & a better way to hold the yoke (24 in pipe wrench). I'm almost there, ran out of steam so came inside to eat some food & rest for a bit. It is a royal bitch for sure. This write up made it sound much easier that it is. http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm