LS7 clutch checklist. Did I forget anything?
04-22-2010, 04:03 PM
#1
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LS7 clutch checklist. Did I forget anything? Ok, so I got LS7 clutch kit(pp plate, disc, flywheel), an ls1 master with about 200 miles on it that will get the drill mod prior to installation. What else do I need?
Seals, etc...?
Im doing some research on a slave cylinder, any recomendations? this is a dd car.
Seals, etc...?
Im doing some research on a slave cylinder, any recomendations? this is a dd car.
04-22-2010, 08:19 PM
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I may be having some engagement issues with mine. anyone ever hear of these causing grinding? worked fine after a tranny rebuild, gave it a hard 1,2,3,4, stuck in 4th, then popped it out to have 3rd and 4th gear grind unless i hit the clutch to take it out of gear, and to put it back in. WTF???
04-23-2010, 07:19 AM
#5
if the rear main isnt leaking dont change it. to properly install the seal over the crank you need a special tool. if one of the seal lips gets pinched, youre going to be buying another clutch and doing this all over again.
be sure to seal the flywheel to crank bolts.
be sure to seal the flywheel to crank bolts.
04-23-2010, 10:51 AM
#6
if the rear main isnt leaking dont change it. to properly install the seal over the crank you need a special tool. if one of the seal lips gets pinched, youre going to be buying another clutch and doing this all over again.
I say get a new master especially if you dont know if its the 01 revised verison. Good luck bud
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04-23-2010, 12:37 PM
#8
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Agreed, if it's not leaking leave it alone, does not require a special tool just gotta be creative. Also, if you do end up replacing it, please only use OEM parts. Anything else will leak.
I say get a new master especially if you dont know if its the 01 revised verison. Good luck bud
I say get a new master especially if you dont know if its the 01 revised verison. Good luck bud
The seal is leaking so we will be changing it when we do the clutch.
Im curious as to how the 01 master was revised. Anyone know?
04-23-2010, 01:28 PM
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As far as the master, it was bought brand new from the GM dealership so it should be the new one. I got it from my friend who parted out his car after he totaled it. Didn't even have it installed for a month.
The seal is leaking so we will be changing it when we do the clutch.
Im curious as to how the 01 master was revised. Anyone know?
The seal is leaking so we will be changing it when we do the clutch.
Im curious as to how the 01 master was revised. Anyone know?
If you weren't having issues before just do the drill mod and put it all back together. If it gives you problems then spend the money on a tick.
04-23-2010, 02:11 PM
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i would recommend a different master cylinder..i got a brand new gm one and did the drill mod and i still have disengagement problems..also when i did my ls7 clutch i got a 01/02 slave and a new pilot bearing
04-23-2010, 02:11 PM
#11
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Spend the $35 or om a mity vac bleeder kit, you won't regret it. Done correctly, the stock master and slave should work fine. If the dealer has them, get new flywheel and clutch bolts, they're only a couple of bucks and I like using new bolts on the flywheel and clutch. Get antisieze to put on the alignment pins, after you wrestle your bell housing off, you'll want to use it. get a new pilot bearing and a puller to get the old one out - DO NOT try the tissue paper, grease, or any other method that puts pressure on the back of the crank.
04-26-2010, 12:04 PM
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New flywheel and bolts on hand. 
If that master gives me problems after the drill mod, will I have to drop the transmission again to change it?
I probably should mention this: the car has close to 150k miles. That being said, anything else that should get swapped?
Thanks for the pilot bearing suggestion, cDorch.
If that master gives me problems after the drill mod, will I have to drop the transmission again to change it?
I probably should mention this: the car has close to 150k miles. That being said, anything else that should get swapped?
Thanks for the pilot bearing suggestion, cDorch.
04-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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FWIW I recently installed a brand new GM master in my car only to still have disengagement issues. Kinda wish i spent the few extra bucks and bought the tick adjustable. but...
If you weren't having issues before just do the drill mod and put it all back together. If it gives you problems then spend the money on a tick.
If you weren't having issues before just do the drill mod and put it all back together. If it gives you problems then spend the money on a tick.
04-26-2010, 09:26 PM
#14
That's originally what I said when I saw the price tag. And guess what?
Out of the mods I've done to my car, the tick master (when I did the LS7 clutch swap) was the BEST decision I've made with this car. Period.
If the stock master still ***** up with stock clutches, etc, in general, think of how it will work with a LS7 clutch...
I can bang gears like no other now; how it's supposed to work.
Out of the mods I've done to my car, the tick master (when I did the LS7 clutch swap) was the BEST decision I've made with this car. Period.
If the stock master still ***** up with stock clutches, etc, in general, think of how it will work with a LS7 clutch...
I can bang gears like no other now; how it's supposed to work.
04-29-2010, 04:15 PM
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could you do me a huge favor? how do i know if i have an ls7 clutch? i assume there are numbers somewhere could you pm me or post them here? im trying to figure out if a shop fu#$ed me... thanks!
04-30-2010, 08:44 AM
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The drill mod is drilling the restriction out of the hydrolic line that runs from the slave to the master. And I guess the new f body slaves have a small restriction in the slave itself that needs to be drilled as well.
