MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Im trying to start buying parts for my fuel system on my race car. ive decided on a 5 gal summit fuel cell, Aeromotive A1000 pump and A1000-6 regulator, so ill have -8 running from the cell to the pump and up to the rails, then a -6 from rails to regulator and back to the cell.

My big question is about the hoses. I dont feel I need steel braided and I like the black nylon braided hoses like Earls Pro-lite 350, have any of you guys used this? Does it bind easily and do you for any reason wish you had gone with steel braided?

Also what type of filter are you guys using with these systems? Im not a fan of cleanable filters for my fuel but ive seen the summit billet filters that come with -8 fittings and in both 100 and 10 micron for before and after the pump and they have replacement elements.

And Ive tried searches and in alot of the threads I see alot of talk about a "Y" in the line, what is this used for?

My engine is a built 347 making about 550 flywheel hp n/a, and it will be hit with a 200 shot of n20 but from a stand alone system.

Thanks in advance for the help!

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

you dont need a fues system for 550 flywheel and a stand alone for your nitrous...your WELL within your fuel systems limits...walbro in a stock tank will do 700RWhp...stand alone will do close to that also

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I dont need it but im building the car with the intent of much more power in the future and I want to do the fuel system once.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

I'm doing a fuel system now to run E85 and I have a stand alone for the nitrous too.
I'm going to use the black pro lite hose as well and my buddy Rick used those lines on his race car.
I like the black and they are lighter than the steel braided hose. Also the hose is less abrasive to whatever it touches.
I'm not using a Y fitting, don't see why I would need one for what I'm doing and I don't see why you would need one either.
Here's a pic of my engine with the black braided hose. My fuel system isn't complete in this pic (no large fuel line and no regulator)

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

^^^ That looks awesome! I dont understand what the Y would be for either unless you run one line to each fuel rail instead of putting in a cross hose to link them.

I am trying to save as much weight as possible and like the look of the black braided hose alot more, good to hear you and your friend are happy with it, I think thats what ill be going with. In your experience was it any easier or tougher to install the ends than steel braided hoses? Id imagine it would be easier...

SUCK MY SS

iTrader: (14)

you would use a y fitting if you are runnin individual feed to each rail...thats how i hav mine.. -10 feed Y'ed to dual -8 lines individually feeding each rail , then one line from each rail to the inlet of the FPR, then a -8 return.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

That seems like an awful lot of hoses and fittings to make, what is the advantage?

dlandsvZ28

About the fuel line choice:

With my build I've used various types and brands: stainless braided synthetic rubber inner tube, stainless braided -8an PTFE inner tube, and both -8an and -6an with Flame Retardant Nomex Cover w/Kevlar with Aeroquip's patented elastomer smooth inner tube.

IMO the |Aeroquip Startlite hose is the easiest to work with. I am actually replacing most of my the stainless PTFE hose with Aeroquip Startlite.

The primary reason is because -8an or -10an PTFE is extremely stiff and exerts so much stress on the lines as you route it from the tank to the fuel rails. If you want to make a 90 degree bend it take a bunch of space to do so because the bend radius is so large. And even then you have to secure it to hold it in place because it wants to lay straight rather than with a bend. The bend radius with Aeroquip Startlite is about 3 1/2 inches.

With Aramid or Nomex braided out liner you can cut a hose end in a few seconds as opposed to stainless braided where you need a dremel, zip ties, tape, face shield and air compressor. Why air compressor? To blow out out the hose ends after making the cut to remove all of crud that accumulates in the hose end after making the cut.

I don't know if the Earl's Hose is the same as Aeroquip Startlite. The inner liner is described as synthetic rubber compared to the Startlite that is mfg'd to eliminate fuel. and fumes to bleed out over time.

IMO a downside to Earl's is that it is proprietory and requires Earl's hose ends. With Startlite I use either Aeroquip or Fragola and Summit and all compress into the inner liner so there are no leaks.

Pro-Lite 350™ hose has been specifically designed to use EARL'S Swivel Seal™ and Auto Crimp™ Hose ends exclusively. The use of other manufacturers hose ends is not recommended and may compromise the pressure capabilities and durability of the hose. Insist on the brands you trust, EARL'S Pro-Lite 350™ hose and Swivel Seal™ or Auto Crimp hose ends.

Specs for Aeroquip Startlite

https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/...ded/lwhose.pdf

Tip: No matter what you hose you choose, buy a jig and use it to connect your hose ends (link below). With the jig you will need a vise as well. With it you won't mess up the anodized hose ends from the jaws of the vise ( it take about 150 ft lbs to make the last few turns as you align/match the hex ends on the hose end). The jig makes it easy.

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/vise-ja...ittings/vjaw-r

Having said all of the above. The preferred choice is convoluted PTFE inner liner hose with Aramid braided outer liner. But it's way too pricey at over $20 a foot.