derek358

Hey guys, so i just sold my ss not too long ago and on a wim bought a hyundai from an insurance auction..

no worries though another ls1 is in the plans

but anyhow.. im no expert when it comes to body work but what do u guys think of this damage? im just a pharmacy kid that loves switchin cars every so often

you think its better to repair or replace? and what should something like this run me?

link to the album
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/derek321/Genesis/

Indrid_Cold

Should be repairable, provided the integrity of that panel isn't compromised to the point that it would be too weak/fatigued. You should be able to pull the dent out as much as possible, get at it with a hammer and dolley from inside the trunk, and whatever doesn't come out with some coaxing, bondo will take care of. Be sure to prep the surface beforehand with some 80 to 120 grit sandpaper and clean it real well with some denatured alcohol. Sand the bondo once it cures with some 180 and 220 grit on a sanding block, and after that it'll be ready to prime/sand/paint.

Replacement would require cutting/welding of a new or junkyard piece in addition to everything listed above.

bdyman

well if repairing is the way you want to go it can be if its pulled right, if its just pulled wrong the metal will stretch more and its garbage, now im talking pulling on a frame rack, not with a slugger

if your paying out of pocket, yes a junkyard 1/4 is a better way to go but keep in mind we tech dont work for free, and when a junkyard panle is removed we get paid for clean up time, to fix rust, fix dents, fix dents when you pull the old panle off, we get paid for every clip , bolt we touch at 48 an hour

and it would still have to be prepulled, you always always prepull metal before its replaced, which is now frame time, pull time, setup and measure time, at 90 an hour

well you see my point, the car was totaled due to lack of value, statefarm uses the NADA book all others use kelly blue book, so im sure the adjuster wrote the car for a 1/4, bumper, and all the other work invovled with that job

but and i say but becasue i see it can be fixed, if the tech pulls the metal right, i see how i would pull it, and then work the dent out from the back side

my estimate would be around 1,500-1,800, all the R&I work, pull time, paint time, wet sand and buff, replacing the 1/4 well as you know the car was totaled so you can guess it was over what the car w as worth

derek358

i see bdyman.. i was hoping itd only be around 1500 for a quality job to fix it. the car wasnt totatled but i believe it was one of those new car dealy things.. its an 09 and still has all the film and stickers on the inside of the car.. dont know the mileage yet since i dont have the smart key. only down side is that its not the v8 model with 375hp only 290 with the v6. hopefully i only get charged about 1800 for the job.


is there any down side for putting bondo and filler on a new car rather than replacing the quarter? id rather not have non factory welds if i can help it but my buddy was like well then youll have bondo on a new car. im only keeping it for a year or so..

Indrid_Cold

^Well, even replacing the quarter, where the new piece is welded and ground smooth, most of the time it isn't 100% smooth, so body filler still has to be applied to fill in any imperfections in the metal.

Also, I just realized that its a Genesis- I love those things! Especially the Coupe

bdyman

there is no downside to bondo, body filler technology has changed so much over 5yrs, its now water proof, corrosion resistant, sands so much easier then say bondo of 5yrs ago
there is filler with kevlar, a product called all metal, and sometimes we dont even have to grind the metal the glaze of today can go over 80 grit evercoat doesnt want the e-coat gone for the glaze to be 100% effective

so much info to type out, yes we do still use bondo we have to metal today is to thin to really metal finsh or work like the old metal of a 1960 car

so again it can be fixed

derek358

awesome to hear and thanks for the genesis comment.. hey bdyman where in chicago are you located and would u possibly be interested in taking something like this on.

im in the chicagoland area and would like it fixed nicely for a decent price.

i really wish i could learn/ see something like this done. only time i did was bondoed and spray canned a bumper on a 2k dollar car. too scared to unbend or touch anything on anything worth more money cause i have no idea if ill break it beyond repair.

bdyman

i live in cicero and work in chicago at airport auto rebuilders, i cant do side work i have no room at all, if you can bring the car by the shop for a estimate just tell them chris sent ya

TORCH FRC

Hey bdyman I realise bondo HAS come a long way but thay qtr is crunched and will need a relativley large amount of filler. Bondo has a tendancy to shrink when applied in thick coats. Im not saying that it will if applied properly but most legit shops wouldnt touch a repair on that qtr. Most of the shops that repair severly damaged parts like that arent all too worried about longevity or bodylines/edges. With the amount of rpr time one would need to properly rpr that qtr (I mean where it looks really good) I think the RR would be worth it as one would have to blend anyway.

Not to knock your opinion (or say that you couldnt do it) but I wouldnt want the OP to have a jello looking qtr if its repaired by someone who doesnt have your skills.

But then again if youre only gonna keep it a year and you can find a competent shop to rpr it....that could save you some $.

Indrid_Cold

^The last shop I worked at, we would fill it, let it cure, sand, repeat. That was usually enough and if it wasn't, a few thick coats of primer and some blocking finesse would do the trick.

I think the best route would be to R&R the whole panel though. May be more expensive, but less filler will be used and it will be more solid.

BCKNBLK

iTrader: (3)

im with Indrid cold....
If the panel was poped back out properly without stretching the metal any worse it could be filled....as long as it is as strait as physically possible and took your time before the filler goes on. If you want to cut and paste thats fine too.
but you could always dent the other side the same to match and call it a day.