Fueling & Injection - Dual Walbro Pumps - How To Get Rid Of T-Fitting

I need to get rid of the t-fitting that connects the twin walbro pumps in a procharged F1-C Camaro. It has become a restriction so I need to change over to a y-block. Just seeing what info was out there and if anyone had pics. It is a 01 so it has a plastic tank.

I am assuming a y-block wont fit in the bucket so I was planning on running 2 -6 lines up through the the top of the plastic bucket and getting rid of the stock plastic feed set up. Then connecting the two -6 line together with a y-block outside of fuel tank. Any suggestions?

Link to car:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1078729-camaro-ss-f1-c-build-5.html

Im sure you have seen this, correct? He uses a Y block from Home Depot.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/856954-diy-twin-pumps-quick-cheap.html

Thats with a metal tank ;)

That y-block wont fit is plastic bucket.

I think I know what I am going to do and will post pics when it's done, but any help is appreciated.

Hey Mike,

Call me later for info on this. I've never seen what you are looking for posted on tech before, but can tell you what we need.

Hey Mike,

Call me later for info on this. I've never seen what you are looking for posted on tech before, but can tell you what we need.

I'll give you a call in a bit, I think I got it figured out.

Parts list:

2 90deg -6an bulkhead fittings
4 -6an poly washers
7 straight -6an to hose fittings
1 Y-block -6an
2 -6an bulkhead nuts

and some -6 braided line

Hey Frost can you PM with the info? I'm also trying to get rid of the T fitting in my setup...

But if I'm not mistaken, Lonnie's DP setup uses the T fitting, and claims to support over 1000WHP?

Hey Frost can you PM with the info? I'm also trying to get rid of the T fitting in my setup...

But if I'm not mistaken, Lonnie's DP setup uses the T fitting, and claims to support over 1000WHP?

:poke:

I just put the parts list above ^^^^^ ;)

That's what frost told you to do? That seems like ALOT of money lol. And a lot of fabrication.

Especially since it will put down close to 1100rwhp with a t-fitting.. 1080 confirmed through a 4L80E so far.

If you are planning on this much power, you should be thinking about more than a dual pump setup anyway.

Especially since it will put down close to 1100rwhp with a t-fitting.. 1080 confirmed through a 4L80E so far.

If you are planning on this much power, you should be thinking about more than a dual pump setup anyway.



Using a T in the bucket on my own car, fuel pressure fell up top when the car was at about 18-20psi. I never had it on the dyno at that level but seeing as it made 600rwhp at 10psi, it should have been around 800. That fuel system consisted of twin Walbros teed in the tank, primary pump had the straight through shot and they used the factory fuel port on top of the bucket (99-02 car) to a -6feed up to a the rails, Kirban regulator and evap line used as a return. Two meth nozzles from a cranked Alkycontrol kit.

Another car with the same fuel arrangement began losing pressure right at 800rwhp and was fixed by using two -6 feeds through bulkheads in the top of the bucket that went into a Y. It was never put on the dyno after but it ran another 5 psi of boost with fuel pressure still climbing afterward.

The car in question in the thread has the same fuel and meth arrangement as those two witht he exception of it's own -6 return. It very likely will make 800rwhp on it's pump gas tune. It's pressure stops rising up top and even driving the Siemens 83s static up top to see, the car still leans out at the very end.

Maybe I'm missing what you are saying though, do you use the fuel port or a T and a single bulkhead 90 on top of the bucket?

I have seen the dual pump write up for the metal tank and thought there used to be more pics and info on doing it in the plastic tank but now that I want to do this I have not been able to find anything. Can you just add a second pump off of a hobs switch and not make any changes to the fuel lines regulator or rails?

That's what frost told you to do? That seems like ALOT of money lol. And a lot of fabrication.

A boosted f-body does cost a lot of money and does require a lot of fabrication ;)

In to see the results and pics on this.

Using a T in the bucket on my own car, fuel pressure fell up top when the car was at about 18-20psi. I never had it on the dyno at that level but seeing as it made 600rwhp at 10psi, it should have been around 800. That fuel system consisted of twin Walbros teed in the tank, primary pump had the straight through shot and they used the factory fuel port on top of the bucket (99-02 car) to a -6feed up to a the rails, Kirban regulator and evap line used as a return. Two meth nozzles from a cranked Alkycontrol kit.

Another car with the same fuel arrangement began losing pressure right at 800rwhp and was fixed by using two -6 feeds through bulkheads in the top of the bucket that went into a Y. It was never put on the dyno after but it ran another 5 psi of boost with fuel pressure still climbing afterward.

The car in question in the thread has the same fuel and meth arrangement as those two witht he exception of it's own -6 return. It very likely will make 800rwhp on it's pump gas tune. It's pressure stops rising up top and even driving the Siemens 83s static up top to see, the car still leans out at the very end.

Maybe I'm missing what you are saying though, do you use the fuel port or a T and a single bulkhead 90 on top of the bucket?


Can't compare your builds to mine, but I have proven over 1000rwhp multiple times through the stock tank connection & internal an t-fitting. Personally I feel you should be using a line bigger than a -6 to the front of the car..... it loses much more pressure/flow overall than the short piece of t/line in the tank at 800+rwhp.

There is no doubt the "T" is a restriction, but not the ultimate problem in a typical system. If everything else is up to the task, the "T" is not a problem. When other things are marginal, it can be the straw that breaks the camels back.

Also your base pressure & total boost referenced pressure makes a big difference to what the system is capable of. The overall combination is what makes or breaks the deal. Run big injectors & low pressure & you can make a ton of power. Recently had a C6 break 1100rwhp on one of my dual pump systems.

A boosted f-body does cost a lot of money and does require a lot of fabrication ;)


:werd:

Can't compare your builds to mine, but I have proven over 1000rwhp multiple times through the stock tank connection & internal an t-fitting. Personally I feel you should be using a line bigger than a -6 to the front of the car..... it loses much more pressure/flow overall than the short piece of t/line in the tank at 800+rwhp.

There is no doubt the "T" is a restriction, but not the ultimate problem in a typical system. If everything else is up to the task, the "T" is not a problem. When other things are marginal, it can be the straw that breaks the camels back.

Also your base pressure & total boost referenced pressure makes a big difference to what the system is capable of. The overall combination is what makes or breaks the deal. Run big injectors & low pressure & you can make a ton of power. Recently had a C6 break 1100rwhp on one of my dual pump systems.


Lonnie do you have any pics of this set up? So the T-fitting is a -6 and the lines in the bucket are -6? Then this is connected to the stock outlet port on top of the tank? Where does it switch to -8?

I use factory style flex hoses in the tank.

I switch to a -8 right after the quick connect on the top of the fuel bucket.

I've always heard to use -8an feed and -6an return, hobbs switch, dual intank walbros with a T connector, boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and it will support 1k horsepower

Stephen

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4290.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4291.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4293.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4294.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4296.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4301.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/D-1SC_SOM_SS/IMG_4300.jpg

hmmm looks like a lot of work still. Especially when your still goin into just a -6 feed...I relly hope it wors out fr you guys. I found a metal "Y" fitin that works just about perfct in tank.

Drilling 2 holes, and making a handful of hose end connections doesnt compare to the work/fabrication it took to make that f1 fit on the front of the car.

hmmm looks like a lot of work still. Especially when your still goin into just a -6 feed...I relly hope it wors out fr you guys. I found a metal "Y" fitin that works just about perfct in tank.

Tell us more?

hmmm looks like a lot of work still. Especially when your still goin into just a -6 feed...I relly hope it wors out fr you guys. I found a metal "Y" fitin that works just about perfct in tank.

i looked all over for one of those,. where did you end up getting it?

I have a 98 setup so this isn't that large of a deal, but I'd like to see the Y fitting for the 99+. I saw this for sale just a little while ago and he said he used a Y fitting:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1279409-99-02-f-body-dual-255-intank-assembly-no-miles.html

http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/LFP_5/16''_Stainless_Steel_Y_Fitting.html

speedtweekerz on here also have the y fitting. Which I tried to get from them like for almost a month. And never could get it...

It's pricey, but the answer IMO.

Drilling 2 holes, and making a handful of hose end connections doesnt compare to the work/fabrication it took to make that f1 fit on the front of the car.

LOL man I feel you. I ended up cutting out my front upper core support, getting a griffin stand up radiator, cutting, welding, cutting fingers, and fabricating to get mine to fit. But hey it looks damn good now. I'm fixing to do my fuel system next, just havnt got around to it but its not going to be hard, not one of those things I am dreading...

Well this has turned out to be a pain. Having a problem with fuel system and don't see how it could possibly be inside the tank. I can prime car and pressure build instantly to 50psi (base pressure with 80lb injectors). It holds pressure for awhile so don't think it is in the tank. when I start the car fuel pressure holds and reads about 40 ish psi in vacuum and is fine idleing or revving up very slowly....but if i stab throttle, pressure drops to 20 psi and i can feel car stumbling from loosing pressure....wtf? any ideas or suggestions are welcome

I have had fuel bucket out of tank to re-do everything about 8 times and even tried switching everything back to original t-fitting set-up and it did the same thing :/ think its the regulator? just hard to believe since it has less than 1000 miles and car worked fine before I started changing fuel system