the mistery oil leak help(pictures)
05-09-2010, 03:09 AM
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the mistery oil leak help(pictures) i hope i aint bodderring too much.
i have a 1997 Camaro z28, i bought it with many leaks half way thru them but just cant catch on to this one.
i still have a leak going on from same spot....whatelse can it be?
*i have dont the timming cover work twice now.(that dont seem to be where the leak coming from)
*i have just replace the valve cover gasket(that dont seem where the leak coming from either) i just change the gasket yesterday 5-8-2010
i have notice there is a sensor in the bottom of the timming cover can it be there?
i can question that a little but again dont seem from where the leak coming from.
the leak is coming from somewhere in the top and dropping down thru the timming cover and right down as you can see in the pics.
what can it be?
this is a pic where you can see that the leak is coming from the top and not the timming cover. see the screw building up and leaking down into the timming cover and from the timming cover down to the floor.
this is the bottom look of the timing cover as u see there oil dropping.
this is the sensor on the bottom of the timming cover
i have a 1997 Camaro z28, i bought it with many leaks half way thru them but just cant catch on to this one.
i still have a leak going on from same spot....whatelse can it be?
*i have dont the timming cover work twice now.(that dont seem to be where the leak coming from)
*i have just replace the valve cover gasket(that dont seem where the leak coming from either) i just change the gasket yesterday 5-8-2010
i have notice there is a sensor in the bottom of the timming cover can it be there?
i can question that a little but again dont seem from where the leak coming from.
the leak is coming from somewhere in the top and dropping down thru the timming cover and right down as you can see in the pics.
what can it be?
this is a pic where you can see that the leak is coming from the top and not the timming cover. see the screw building up and leaking down into the timming cover and from the timming cover down to the floor.
this is the bottom look of the timing cover as u see there oil dropping.
this is the sensor on the bottom of the timming cover
05-09-2010, 10:52 AM
#6
Yea I just recently had the same leak it turned out to be my water pump drive seal and the O-ring on the CKP sensor was gone. Replaced all the timing cover seals and new ring and been fine since.
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05-10-2010, 05:04 AM
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You first need to remove the timing cover to be able to remove the seal.
You need to remove the fans
Then you need to remove the accessory drive belt, tighten on the bolt holding the pulley to loosen the belt (I believe its a 1/2")
drain the radiator from the drain **** at the bottom first before starting on the water pump
water pump, 9/16" socket and for the bolt behind the power steering pump's pulley, just undo the top bolt and loosen the lower to push it aside slightly and gain access and i believe its a 10mm headed bolt holding the steering pump assembly
crank pulley, you need to undo the 3 bolts holding it to the crank hub, they are 5/8" in size. Then by using a 3 claw puller, position it to hold the pulley, stick a 5/8" socket (preferably 3/8" drive) to sit against the crank hub bolt so you can push against it. It would help if someone was there to position the puller with you and hold the socket at first. If you are very good with your hands, then you won't need any assistance for this.
opti-spark, 3 bolts hold it in place which I believe are 3/8" sized heads, before pulling out the wires mark their positions, saves you from having to redo them afterwards (quite annoying and a waste of time)
and then finally you need to remove the crank hub using a hub puller tool. Undo the hub bolt (its inside the center of the hub, its also a 5/8") soak the **** with some WD40 to help undo it, also the engine might turn with it so you will need to hold it still. I used a pry bar and positioned it at the flywheel so that the rotating assembly would remain stationary (this can be dangerous if you don't know what your doing), others have done a chain lock at the hub itself which I find much safer but I worked with what I had, search on google for writeups on how this is done. You will need a bolt thinner than the diameter of the bolt you just removed, preferably a grade 8 and grind off the threads so it doesn't damage the threads inside the crank. It needs to bottom out at the end of the hole so you can push against it. Many write up on this on the net.
Remove the bolts holding down the timing cover and any sensors if you have a 96-97.
You will now need to undo the front bolts of the oil pan to lower it a bit (the timing cover tucks into the seal) and lets hope the seal does not rip on you, it can and is going to be quite a fun job to do so be careful here.
Now, remove your timing cover, pull out all the seals and put the new ones in, scrape off the old gasket from the engine and the timing cover, also the water pump gaskets need to be removed.
A lint free rag or plastic bag to cover the timing chain and crank sprocket from the gasket shavings when you remove them is a good idea.
Now put the timing cover back on and refasten the oil sump bolts.
Reinstall the crank hub (a small wooden block and a hammer on it but the radiator needs to be out for this to get enough clearance to swing the hammer, and it will help put it back on unless you can get your hands on a hub installation tool then use it, its the correct way). It helps to lube the crank snout before installing it (a smear of engine oil or WD40 will do the job)
Re-fasten the bolt holding it in place, you will again need to hold the rotating assembly because the engine will crank, but with the compression strokes being such a resistance you might be able to tighten it without strapping it in place.
Reinstall the opti-spark and make sure you install the harness now, its easier.
Put the crank pulley back on, tighten it until it sits flush with the hub.
Now reinstall the water pump, DO NOT FORGET TO PUT ON THE WATERPUMP DRIVE COUPLER! Thread sealer on the threads is a correct practice because the bolts go through the water jacket. I put black RTV under the head of the bolts to seal because I cannot find thread sealer here in my country. It worked numerous times. DO NOT PUT RTV ON THE BOLT THREADS!!!
Reinstall the bolts you removed for the steering pump, put your accessory belt back on, refill your radiator and bleed the system for air.
Crank her up and check for leaks.
You need to remove the fans
Then you need to remove the accessory drive belt, tighten on the bolt holding the pulley to loosen the belt (I believe its a 1/2")
drain the radiator from the drain **** at the bottom first before starting on the water pump
water pump, 9/16" socket and for the bolt behind the power steering pump's pulley, just undo the top bolt and loosen the lower to push it aside slightly and gain access and i believe its a 10mm headed bolt holding the steering pump assembly
crank pulley, you need to undo the 3 bolts holding it to the crank hub, they are 5/8" in size. Then by using a 3 claw puller, position it to hold the pulley, stick a 5/8" socket (preferably 3/8" drive) to sit against the crank hub bolt so you can push against it. It would help if someone was there to position the puller with you and hold the socket at first. If you are very good with your hands, then you won't need any assistance for this.
opti-spark, 3 bolts hold it in place which I believe are 3/8" sized heads, before pulling out the wires mark their positions, saves you from having to redo them afterwards (quite annoying and a waste of time)
and then finally you need to remove the crank hub using a hub puller tool. Undo the hub bolt (its inside the center of the hub, its also a 5/8") soak the **** with some WD40 to help undo it, also the engine might turn with it so you will need to hold it still. I used a pry bar and positioned it at the flywheel so that the rotating assembly would remain stationary (this can be dangerous if you don't know what your doing), others have done a chain lock at the hub itself which I find much safer but I worked with what I had, search on google for writeups on how this is done. You will need a bolt thinner than the diameter of the bolt you just removed, preferably a grade 8 and grind off the threads so it doesn't damage the threads inside the crank. It needs to bottom out at the end of the hole so you can push against it. Many write up on this on the net.
Remove the bolts holding down the timing cover and any sensors if you have a 96-97.
You will now need to undo the front bolts of the oil pan to lower it a bit (the timing cover tucks into the seal) and lets hope the seal does not rip on you, it can and is going to be quite a fun job to do so be careful here.
Now, remove your timing cover, pull out all the seals and put the new ones in, scrape off the old gasket from the engine and the timing cover, also the water pump gaskets need to be removed.
A lint free rag or plastic bag to cover the timing chain and crank sprocket from the gasket shavings when you remove them is a good idea.
Now put the timing cover back on and refasten the oil sump bolts.
Reinstall the crank hub (a small wooden block and a hammer on it but the radiator needs to be out for this to get enough clearance to swing the hammer, and it will help put it back on unless you can get your hands on a hub installation tool then use it, its the correct way). It helps to lube the crank snout before installing it (a smear of engine oil or WD40 will do the job)
Re-fasten the bolt holding it in place, you will again need to hold the rotating assembly because the engine will crank, but with the compression strokes being such a resistance you might be able to tighten it without strapping it in place.
Reinstall the opti-spark and make sure you install the harness now, its easier.
Put the crank pulley back on, tighten it until it sits flush with the hub.
Now reinstall the water pump, DO NOT FORGET TO PUT ON THE WATERPUMP DRIVE COUPLER! Thread sealer on the threads is a correct practice because the bolts go through the water jacket. I put black RTV under the head of the bolts to seal because I cannot find thread sealer here in my country. It worked numerous times. DO NOT PUT RTV ON THE BOLT THREADS!!!
Reinstall the bolts you removed for the steering pump, put your accessory belt back on, refill your radiator and bleed the system for air.
Crank her up and check for leaks.
Last edited by ADM; 05-10-2010 at 05:57 AM.
