New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - Building my first engine

I am putting an aluminum forged LS into my Porsche 944. I want to build my engine for it. Can someone give me the low down on what I need, what am I looking at for cost? I know the basics of engines but not the deeply technical stuff. I am looking for something somewhat aggressive (track/day car). Nothing extreme but I do want to twin turbo it. What parts do I need? Also, what is the difference between the different LS blocks.

if you want to do a turbo you more then likely should do an iron block. Check out speedinc.com they have some specific blocks for boost. Im thinking an lq9 block is what you will need.

Few specifics the genisuses on here are goin to need to know. How much of a role does money play in this build? Are you wanting to stay stock or aftermarket and as ^^^^ said iron block ex. (LQ4, LQ9) is you better option for FI as I quickly have learned.

Money is a big issue, I don't have a whole lot of it. I was hoping to hit under 2 grand for this build. I don't think I can get quite the power I want with stock parts especially if I want a twin turbo. One big question I have is if I buy a new block and all new parts, what needs to me machined? This really confuses me, what needs to be machines, when, and why?
I do want this vehicle to be able to do long trips and be easily maintained. I don't need to go over the 650hp mark, so the aluminum will be just fine especially since it will be lighter.
What specifics do I look at in cam's, rockers, headers, pistons, and arms. I don't know what numbers are good. What do I look at?
I know this is a really general question, but the more I can learn the better. Thanks.

Money is a big issue, I don't have a whole lot of it. I was hoping to hit under 2 grand for this build. I don't think I can get quite the power I want with stock parts especially if I want a twin turbo. One big question I have is if I buy a new block and all new parts, what needs to me machined? This really confuses me, what needs to be machines, when, and why?
I do want this vehicle to be able to do long trips and be easily maintained. I don't need to go over the 650hp mark, so the aluminum will be just fine especially since it will be lighter.
What specifics do I look at in cam's, rockers, headers, pistons, and arms. I don't know what numbers are good. What do I look at?
I know this is a really general question, but the more I can learn the better. Thanks.

To be blunt, unless you own machine tools, know a great deal of sources, and have high experience in assembling/tuning, 2 grand is not feesible for a proper twin turbo setup. Espically if your wanting to install headers and all of that. You may ask around im not famaliar with turbos and or their cost. Maybe you can find something cheap but decent around 500 for the turbo's themselves but think of everything else that goes into it ex. intercooler, having the piping fit for your application. All of this is going to cost.
My background is all old mouse small block motors. But this will be my first LS build. I got my motor LQ4 for $250.00 with a burnt valve in the #7 cyl I plan on spending at least 3500 to get where I want it on a N/A level but im doing a conversion in an 86 Monte Carlo SS.

From what i've read and seen these cast blocks can take some abuse. I am from Lousiville, Ky and they are not every where but we have some nasty LS setups running around. My advice to you would be build the motor now for boost. Then add the turbo setup later. Search the forum for simple mods a machine shop could do and build the motor with few add ons ex LS6 intake, good size cam w/ kit including (springs, lifters,rockers etc.), ARP or forgot the name but believe it is KATECH rod bolts. Even changing rod bolts can be tricky some reccomend new bearings due to an egg shape wearing effect but the KATECH bolts are advertised for no adjustments or bearings are needed. Have heads milled ported and polished. Then check with a tuner you may need a larger injector. Leave the bottom end the way it is a stock bottom end should be fine with the aftermarket rod bolts for what you want. Just find some threads of similar builds. I would help more but like you I am just now famaliarizing myself with this information. But good parts with all mentioned above should put you close to 2 grand.

GL with 2k turbo build, not gonna happen

good luck building a N/A engine with 2k. that'll barely get a good set of heads and a cam. you need to research a lot because asking all this in one thread isn't going to get you many specific answers.

I should have been a little more specific. I want to build a LS engine for two grand and if that's too unreasonable I can go up to 3 grand. I do want it to be able to take induction. In other words, 2-3 grand without turbo. What is the best way to go around doing this? How do I do this with price in mind but without half a**ing an engine.

I should have been a little more specific. I want to build a LS engine for two grand and if that's too unreasonable I can go up to 3 grand. I do want it to be able to take induction. In other words, 2-3 grand without turbo. What is the best way to go around doing this? How do I do this with price in mind but without half a**ing an engine.

Do what i'm doing. Get you a LQ4 bottom end. Change the rod bolts. Get a set of L92 heads have them milled ported and polished and find somebody to reccomend you a good size cam. Get you an LS6 intake, aftermarket fuel rails, injectors (you'll need it down the road), and a good tune. Now your sitting at your 450 -500 goal. Later on add boost and you'll attain higher. Still streetable and reliable. But be careful when adding the accessories. The belt routing setup can screw you up just research the different belt drive setups they differ in length away from the block the LQ4 has the largest gap in betbetween belt and block. Then boost next summer.:drive:

^^ what he said. Doing this with an iron block is going to be alot more feasible. Heavier, yes, but way more available to the masses and far cheaper. LS1 longblocks with 50,000 miles around here still pull 1500, and if you buy just a bare block, you'll easily have 4-5 grand when its all said and done. And that may only get you heads, no intake or accessories.

Sorry but 2k just isnt alot of money, especially when you are talking about forged internals. They are expensive for a reason.

2k or 3k is not gonna happen you need to upgrade almost everything to take that abuse and if you what your engine to last!! I just finish my forge 383 stroker 3 weeks ago!! I spend more then 7K this is my list and probably forgetting some stuff, Forge 383 kit $1800 Arp crank studs and head bolts $350 gaskets seals and bearings $500 machine shop $600 cam kit $700 Intake throttle injectors $900 headers y-pipe exhaust $950 tuning $450 Harland Rockers $350 ls7 lifters and under drive pulley $400 ls6 block 550 HV pump $150 Yes im broke now but happy!! :drive:

2-3k = a upgraded stocker. . . end of story (unless you have a bad ass buddy hook up).

I found a aluminum block with 100,000 miles so it will need to be bored. Forged Mahle pistons with rings. A set of cylinder heads, 583 casting. Along with the crankshaft from a 1998 Camaro (I probably need something stronger for a trubo but it came with the block). All of this puts me back only $700. Was this a bad choice? What else should I look at for parts to match these? Any recommendations for camshafts...crankshafts...intake...fuel rails....fuel injectors?