B&M Cooler # 70298 install?
05-12-2010, 06:40 PM
#1
B&M Cooler # 70298 install? Has anyone install one of these trans cooler with a fan? They do not give you any fittings, etc. The cooler has two 1/2 NPTF outlets. I was wondering how everyone hooked it up. I want to replace the radiator one with this one. First I have to find a place to mount it and then get it mounted. It has a large fan and a thermal switch.
Thanks.
Bill
Thanks.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Bowling; 05-18-2010 at 10:21 AM.
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05-13-2010, 05:55 PM
#9
I AM going with the 1/2" NPT that screws into the cooler and a barb end for the rubber hose. What bard end should I use?
It is my D/D so I wanted to get everything ready before I take it apart.
Thanks everyone.
Bill
It is my D/D so I wanted to get everything ready before I take it apart.
Thanks everyone.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Bowling; 05-16-2010 at 03:47 PM.
05-13-2010, 07:20 PM
#11
Here are a couple pics of my install...I mounted mine infront of the A/C condenser.
Like I mentioned, I thought the stock lines were 3/8", so thats what I bought originally and hooked it up. It didn't leak for a couple days, but 2 days ago, got under the car again and saw it was leaking (I originally bypassed the stock cooler, but had decided to run it in series since KS weather is so fickle - the 70266 does not have the cold temp bypass feature that the 70264 and others do).
Anyways, i realized the stock line is actually 5/16" (printed on the hose).
So my setup and routing:
The lower line is the input on the stock cooler (so that line doesn't get touched).
For the upper (output) line, if you follow the hard line down, it turns into a rubber line and is clamped right after it goes horizontal at about the level of the lower portion of the radiator, unclamp that and add your B&M in series.
From the rubber stock hose -> barbed 5/16" fitting -> barbed 3/8" fitting->3/8" hose ->mandrel bent 3/8" elbow ->1/2" - 3/8" reducer -> B&M cooler -> 1/2" - 3/8" reducer into a mandrel bent 3/8" elbow -> 3/8" trans oil line -> barbed 3/8" fitting -> barbed 5/16" fitting -> 5/16" hose -> stock hardline.
If I were to do it over again, it would just require 1/2" to 5/16" reducer, then 5/16" line...but I already had it mounted and lines run, so I didn't feel like redoing it all.
If you plan on bypassing the stock cooler, just unscrew the 2 lines from the stock cooler, slip on and clamp 5/16" line on the lower line (the thread portion can be pushed back). For the top (return line), unclamp the line like mentioned above and slip a 5/16" hose over the hardline.
Here is a pick of the stock cooler bypassed:
If you want to cap the stock cooler so it doesn't get dirty in it, it uses 1/2"-20x5/16" tube plugs .
Kind of long winded, but I was lost trying to do this a couple wks ago.
If its confusing, let me know and I can try and explain it better.
Like I mentioned, I thought the stock lines were 3/8", so thats what I bought originally and hooked it up. It didn't leak for a couple days, but 2 days ago, got under the car again and saw it was leaking (I originally bypassed the stock cooler, but had decided to run it in series since KS weather is so fickle - the 70266 does not have the cold temp bypass feature that the 70264 and others do).
Anyways, i realized the stock line is actually 5/16" (printed on the hose).
So my setup and routing:
The lower line is the input on the stock cooler (so that line doesn't get touched).
For the upper (output) line, if you follow the hard line down, it turns into a rubber line and is clamped right after it goes horizontal at about the level of the lower portion of the radiator, unclamp that and add your B&M in series.
From the rubber stock hose -> barbed 5/16" fitting -> barbed 3/8" fitting->3/8" hose ->mandrel bent 3/8" elbow ->1/2" - 3/8" reducer -> B&M cooler -> 1/2" - 3/8" reducer into a mandrel bent 3/8" elbow -> 3/8" trans oil line -> barbed 3/8" fitting -> barbed 5/16" fitting -> 5/16" hose -> stock hardline.
If I were to do it over again, it would just require 1/2" to 5/16" reducer, then 5/16" line...but I already had it mounted and lines run, so I didn't feel like redoing it all.
If you plan on bypassing the stock cooler, just unscrew the 2 lines from the stock cooler, slip on and clamp 5/16" line on the lower line (the thread portion can be pushed back). For the top (return line), unclamp the line like mentioned above and slip a 5/16" hose over the hardline.
Here is a pick of the stock cooler bypassed:
If you want to cap the stock cooler so it doesn't get dirty in it, it uses 1/2"-20x5/16" tube plugs .
Kind of long winded, but I was lost trying to do this a couple wks ago.
If its confusing, let me know and I can try and explain it better.
Last edited by peterlawl84; 05-13-2010 at 07:29 PM.
05-13-2010, 08:23 PM
#13
As far as bypassing the stock cooler....its been discussed multiple times as to whether or not the stock cooler is necessary when installing a separate trans cooler. From what I've gathered, the arguments for both sides are as follows:
Those who say bypass the stock cooler and run only the separate trans cooler: Once the engine is warm, the heated coolant could add some heat to the transmission oil as it passed through the stock cooler (which is inside the radiator). Therefore only running the trans cooler will prevent this heat exchange from occurring. The only downside is if you drive the car in cold weather. (explained below)
Those who say run them in series, stock first, followed by the separate cooler: The transmission oil will cool some as it passes through the stock cooler (as it did before) and from there will go into the separate cooler for additional cooling. Also in cold weather, the heat from the coolant -> transmission oil exchange in the stock cooler will help warm up the oil faster to provide protection to the transmission. The important part in this setup is that the separate trans cooler has to be IN FRONT of the radiator or separate from it (ie: mounted dope style), so that the air passing through the cooler has not been heated by the radiator first.
Like I mentioned previously, the 70266 did not list the cold oil bypass ("Low pressure drop") feature that was listed on the 70264, 70255, 70268, so I decided to run them in series incase I end up in cold weather.
I believe people have run them both ways and will swear by their preferred routing.
05-13-2010, 08:31 PM
#14
And as far as the elbow pieces, the mandrel bent ones costed alot more than using a straight elbow that you can pick up at NAPA or Lowes, but I was told those could impede flow since its a hard 90 degree bend. I figure an extra 30 bucks now is worth it if it saves the tranny.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
05-13-2010, 09:14 PM
#15
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Got it i'll run it in series, im down south. So I can get all these parts at lowes or oreily correct. What parts will I need to do this job with the 70266 cooler, i'm start this weekend. Sorry to be a bother.
05-13-2010, 09:32 PM
#16
To have a cleaner setup than I did, you will want to buy:
1. 5/16" ID transmission oil hose from any auto parts store (I bought 10' just because I did not want to be short, but probably could of gotten away with 7' by what I had left over)
2. Four hose clamps
3. transmission cooler mounting kit (if you don't already have one) (similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/80278-Transmis.../dp/B00029WR7S)
4. One 5/16" to 5/16" barbed coupler (should be at parts stores) - to connect the outline from the stock cooler to the in-line on the B&M.
5. 1/2" to 5/16" reducers/elbow - your choice on how you do this, you can pick up some pieces from Lowes or NAPA (the places I checked), but those are 90 degree bends. I had to go to a local automotive motorsports store to find the mandrel bent elbows I used, which are suppose to allow for smoother flow. I am not sure if they make one from 1/2" to 5/16" (I used 1/2" to 3/8" and down the line, reduced to the 5/16").
6. 1-2 quarts of ATF Dextron III transmission fluid.
7. two grommets - optional, but I felt it was safer. I used a PCV grommet I found at Oreily's that fit the line perfectly.
8. 1 zip tie just to make sure the hoses didn't move (but there wasn't much play without the zip tie)
9. 1 jug coolant (if you drain the radiator during the install).
I believe that is everything...I will add more later if I think of something.
Hope that helps. Feel free to ask more questions here or pm me if you need something else.
Last edited by peterlawl84; 05-14-2010 at 04:24 PM.
05-16-2010, 03:42 PM
#18
I just came back from Ace hardware, Lowe's, Home Depot and AutoZone trying to find the 1/2" to 5/16" barb. I did find a 1/2" to 3/8" bard from Home Depot so I bought a couple. No one had 5/16" to 5/16" either. I did get 3/8 to 3/8". I am trying to install the 70298 with a fan. I and getting ready to go try the 3/8" barb on my hose. I also had to find a fuse holer which Auto Zone had. I did not buy any hose thinking I could use what I have. I should have bought some.
Bill
Bill
Last edited by Bill Bowling; 05-16-2010 at 03:48 PM.
05-16-2010, 06:21 PM
#19
I could not find a double barbed end in stock at any store I went to. I was told they might be able to order one. You might be able to find a 1/2" to 5/16" barb from an automotive store that carries racing parts (I had to go there for my mandrel bent elbows)
As for the barbed pieces I used to connect the different size hoses, I ended up going to Ace hardware and using two pieces for each one. A 3/8" barbed with the other end a male thread and mated it to a 5/16" barbed with a female thread on the other end.
I tried forcing the 3/8" barb on my 5/16" hose, but wasnt able to get it on there competely. I know that I have seen a 5/16" to 5/16" barbed, but if Ace doesnt have it, they should have 5/16" barbed with both male and female threads, so you can buy those and make your own connector.
As for the barbed pieces I used to connect the different size hoses, I ended up going to Ace hardware and using two pieces for each one. A 3/8" barbed with the other end a male thread and mated it to a 5/16" barbed with a female thread on the other end.
I tried forcing the 3/8" barb on my 5/16" hose, but wasnt able to get it on there competely. I know that I have seen a 5/16" to 5/16" barbed, but if Ace doesnt have it, they should have 5/16" barbed with both male and female threads, so you can buy those and make your own connector.
05-16-2010, 07:26 PM
#20
I could not find a double barbed end in stock at any store I went to. I was told they might be able to order one. You might be able to find a 1/2" to 5/16" barb from an automotive store that carries racing parts (I had to go there for my mandrel bent elbows)
As for the barbed pieces I used to connect the different size hoses, I ended up going to Ace hardware and using two pieces for each one. A 3/8" barbed with the other end a male thread and mated it to a 5/16" barbed with a female thread on the other end.
I tried forcing the 3/8" barb on my 5/16" hose, but wasnt able to get it on there competely. I know that I have seen a 5/16" to 5/16" barbed, but if Ace doesnt have it, they should have 5/16" barbed with both male and female threads, so you can buy those and make your own connector.
As for the barbed pieces I used to connect the different size hoses, I ended up going to Ace hardware and using two pieces for each one. A 3/8" barbed with the other end a male thread and mated it to a 5/16" barbed with a female thread on the other end.
I tried forcing the 3/8" barb on my 5/16" hose, but wasnt able to get it on there competely. I know that I have seen a 5/16" to 5/16" barbed, but if Ace doesnt have it, they should have 5/16" barbed with both male and female threads, so you can buy those and make your own connector.
Thanks.
Bill