Broke trans tonight.
#1
Broke trans tonight.
Track was horrible as always. (Z-Max) Left at 4k and had bad tire shake grabbed 2nd pulled tires high enough to clear soda can and then went for 3rd and nothing. Lifted, forced 3rd then went for 4th and same thing nothing. Lifted and forced into 4th. Got to the return road and I didn't even have a neutral. Had to just force to find any gear I could to get back to the trailer. I still have 1st 3rd and reverse but that is about it. Oh yeah, this was the first pass of the year for me!! This is strike #2 for the manual trans setup. 3rd time and auto is going in. LOL. I think it might just be a blocker ring.
#4
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Actually the auto is for people that want to race the car not fix it.
And if you are going to insist on leaving a stick in... you CAN do it, you're just going to have to shitcan the T56 and put a real racing stick tranny in with a softloc type clutch that's fork operated... then you can run with the stick, and just deal with the clutch.... but get ready to pull the wallet out and the plasma cutter for that ordeal.
OP... I'd get the tranny out, fix it and seriously look at selling it NOW, while it's fresh and in good enogh shape to bring some decent $. Better to sell a good part then have to fix it then sell it when it breaks again, and it's not IF it breaks again it's when...
And if you are going to insist on leaving a stick in... you CAN do it, you're just going to have to shitcan the T56 and put a real racing stick tranny in with a softloc type clutch that's fork operated... then you can run with the stick, and just deal with the clutch.... but get ready to pull the wallet out and the plasma cutter for that ordeal.
OP... I'd get the tranny out, fix it and seriously look at selling it NOW, while it's fresh and in good enogh shape to bring some decent $. Better to sell a good part then have to fix it then sell it when it breaks again, and it's not IF it breaks again it's when...
#5
9 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Ga
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Busa, my problems were no where near as bad as yours but I switched to an auto about a month or so ago and have enjoyed it. I was going on my 3rd clutch and I thought it was a better choice than continuing to swap clutches. I don't really have any apples to apples comparisons because of the weather down in Ga but I am only off my best 6sp time by less than a tenth and my 60ft is 1 hundredth better so far (cooler weather I should be a tenth or so faster). There was two main factors for me to swap, 1. didn't want to keep swapping clutches and the fear of missing a gear due to hydrolics 2. with whatever power adder I decide to go with being N20 or Turbo the consistency of the auto would greatly increase my ETs and tuning/driving skills. I vote Auto now!
#7
9 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Ga
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Running a Hughes Th400, RMVB and TB with an FTI 46 Stall. As far as the swap goes, it was pretty straight forward for me since I bought it from a member that was currently running in his car (not sure if he wants his name out there). I basically bought everything that it took to make it work in his car and put it in mine. This made things a whole lot easier than piecing everything together but there is several threads of how people did it that is step by step. I would be glad to help you! FYI- the hardest part of the install was getting the CSR shield to clear while putting the bolts through the bell housing, gotta have it though for safety
Trending Topics
#9
10 Second Club
iTrader: (64)
yeah I went through this last year. broke my trans year in the end of August. pullet the trans spent $600+ in parts put it back in the car and started having clutch issues of not releasing. Pulled it again over the winter to find my clutch toast and faced with buying a $1500+ clutch plus a blow proof bell to support what I wanted to do and knowing I could break the trans again
I cam across a complete swap for a rossler 400 with brake and ati 3800 stall. I have just over $2100 in the complete swap
Best I went with the t56 was 10.30@137mph
made a few changed to the top end of my car but the same pulley on the blower and went 9.82@141mph 2nd full pass down the track this year. Have yet to go back as I need to get all my license stuff in order and head back to make my licensing passes
Swap is very easy. had to do some minor fabricating for my shifter mount and stuff like that.
I cam across a complete swap for a rossler 400 with brake and ati 3800 stall. I have just over $2100 in the complete swap
Best I went with the t56 was 10.30@137mph
made a few changed to the top end of my car but the same pulley on the blower and went 9.82@141mph 2nd full pass down the track this year. Have yet to go back as I need to get all my license stuff in order and head back to make my licensing passes
Swap is very easy. had to do some minor fabricating for my shifter mount and stuff like that.
#10
Running M and H full race slicks 26 x 10.5.
How is the driving on the street with the auto vs the M6? That is one of my issues is not having the gear box on the street??? Also, do you have to swap the entire engine bay harness? I have alot of switches/guages ect hard wired into the factory harness and prefer to not mess with that right now. Just inbetween I guess.
How is the driving on the street with the auto vs the M6? That is one of my issues is not having the gear box on the street??? Also, do you have to swap the entire engine bay harness? I have alot of switches/guages ect hard wired into the factory harness and prefer to not mess with that right now. Just inbetween I guess.
#11
10 Second Club
iTrader: (64)
driving on the highway sucks with no over drive. But I don't drive mine alot on the street. I put 2800 miles on it last year. But normal cruising is fine. Nice being able to punch it and be right in my powerband too. I think it would be a little more street friendly with a tighter converter. I think I am gonna get this one tightened up over the summer.
The only part of the harness I had to mess with was the speed sensor plug. I needed a different plug on it. Also it is a a reverse manual so I shift the trans computer doesn't control any of it.
The only part of the harness I had to mess with was the speed sensor plug. I needed a different plug on it. Also it is a a reverse manual so I shift the trans computer doesn't control any of it.
#12
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saw your car out there last night. I was wondering why you guys loaded up so early, sucks about the broken trans. The track really wasn't bad at all last night. I had no problem on either of my passes.
#15
9 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Ga
Posts: 1,828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Running M and H full race slicks 26 x 10.5.
How is the driving on the street with the auto vs the M6? That is one of my issues is not having the gear box on the street??? Also, do you have to swap the entire engine bay harness? I have alot of switches/guages ect hard wired into the factory harness and prefer to not mess with that right now. Just inbetween I guess.
How is the driving on the street with the auto vs the M6? That is one of my issues is not having the gear box on the street??? Also, do you have to swap the entire engine bay harness? I have alot of switches/guages ect hard wired into the factory harness and prefer to not mess with that right now. Just inbetween I guess.
Highway driving sucks for me but I have 410s and a 26 inch tall tires, probably moving to 373 and a 28 in the future so I can cruise around 65 no problem, right now 55 is pushing the rpms higher than I would like.
#19
Looks like a piece of metal was in the fluid and got inbetween the slider and shift fork and welded itself together causing the no gear feeling. Need a new 1st and 2nd gear new slider and cluster assy. So overall not terrible. Almost thought of faceplating it. Maybe next time.