should i do it myself or take it to a mechanic?
05-13-2010, 03:09 AM
#1
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should i do it myself or take it to a mechanic? ok so as of some ya know i been having a leak in my car that is pissin me off and i wanna take care of it asap.
i had my timming cover done twice already the leak dont seem to be coming from there! i have posted pics of how it looks and most told me it looks like the Water pump drive seal.
i did my valve cover gaskets just last week all myself.
this one looks more complicated but im set to go i just dont know what im getting in, i dont have much mechanic skill im a newbie at this mechanic game!
should i do this job too or should i just take it to a mechanic?
i can bet i can get it done with help from yall!
if ya can explain some steps and some hints to how to get to that seal or gasket!
also if theres is any place online where i can get the steps to get it done ill appreciate ya telling me the site so i can get it done!
pls feedback its my day of tommorrow and friday!
i had my timming cover done twice already the leak dont seem to be coming from there! i have posted pics of how it looks and most told me it looks like the Water pump drive seal.
i did my valve cover gaskets just last week all myself.
this one looks more complicated but im set to go i just dont know what im getting in, i dont have much mechanic skill im a newbie at this mechanic game!
should i do this job too or should i just take it to a mechanic?
i can bet i can get it done with help from yall!
if ya can explain some steps and some hints to how to get to that seal or gasket!
also if theres is any place online where i can get the steps to get it done ill appreciate ya telling me the site so i can get it done!
pls feedback its my day of tommorrow and friday!
05-13-2010, 07:04 AM
#3
The only thing you learn by taking it to a mechanic, is how to write a check, and you probably already know how to do that. If you're truly interested in knowing how to work on your car, at some point you have to dive in, and start turnin' wrenches.
If you intend to keep the car a while, I'd suggest you invest in a factory shop manual, as they spell out pretty much anything you'll need to know. The toughest part of working on a 4th gen, is that everything is really packed into the engine compartment, and work room is at a premium. However, if you have an LT1 powered car, it's still pretty much straightforward, small block Chevy work....
I've had my '96 Z-28 since it was new, and I have to say that I'm rather disappointed in it, because it's been oil leak prone since it was about 3 years old. It started with the rear of the intake manifold, and gone on from there. I'm once again replacing pretty much every oil seal and gasket in the engine, with the exception of the head gaskets. The mixture of "old style" composition rubber seals, that need to be lubed during installation, vs. the "new style" teflon based seals, that go in dry, are annoying me no end. For insatnce, I replaced the timing cover seals last year, lubed the crank seal (rubber), didn't lube the distributor seal (teflon), but didn't realize the water pump seal was teflon also, and did pre-lube it. A week or so later, it was leaking..... This spring, I'm under the car again.
Prior to this F-bod, I had a '77 Pontiac T/A, with the 400 Pontiac engine. I bought it new, kept it 24 years, and the only leak that ever had was a valve cover gasket.....when the car was about 20 years old.
Nonetheless, don't be afraid to dive in, they're not that hard to work on, as long as you're patient enough to work in close quarters.
If you intend to keep the car a while, I'd suggest you invest in a factory shop manual, as they spell out pretty much anything you'll need to know. The toughest part of working on a 4th gen, is that everything is really packed into the engine compartment, and work room is at a premium. However, if you have an LT1 powered car, it's still pretty much straightforward, small block Chevy work....
I've had my '96 Z-28 since it was new, and I have to say that I'm rather disappointed in it, because it's been oil leak prone since it was about 3 years old. It started with the rear of the intake manifold, and gone on from there. I'm once again replacing pretty much every oil seal and gasket in the engine, with the exception of the head gaskets. The mixture of "old style" composition rubber seals, that need to be lubed during installation, vs. the "new style" teflon based seals, that go in dry, are annoying me no end. For insatnce, I replaced the timing cover seals last year, lubed the crank seal (rubber), didn't lube the distributor seal (teflon), but didn't realize the water pump seal was teflon also, and did pre-lube it. A week or so later, it was leaking..... This spring, I'm under the car again.
Prior to this F-bod, I had a '77 Pontiac T/A, with the 400 Pontiac engine. I bought it new, kept it 24 years, and the only leak that ever had was a valve cover gasket.....when the car was about 20 years old.
Nonetheless, don't be afraid to dive in, they're not that hard to work on, as long as you're patient enough to work in close quarters.
05-13-2010, 11:30 AM
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I'm convince, I hate writing checks a shop or anyone that knows mechanic is going charge well over 250 to do this.
I'm set to repair it myself.
Thanks.
Now let's get to the business lol.
How do i Get to the water pump drive seal?
What other seals do I change now that I'm going to be uinder and Please walk me thru how to achieve this job it ill appreciate the help.
I'm set to repair it myself.
Thanks.
Now let's get to the business lol.
How do i Get to the water pump drive seal?
What other seals do I change now that I'm going to be uinder and Please walk me thru how to achieve this job it ill appreciate the help.
05-14-2010, 09:05 PM
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Well you will need two o rings that seal the water pump drive shaft and the water pump gaskets. Once you have it apart. First you need to take your heater hoses and your radiator hose off your water pump, undo the wiring on the pump and six bolts holding it to the block . now you will need to fanegal the pump out. then pull the bushing off the spline shaft. switch out the old gaskets and o rings and then follow the steps backward . you should be able to take the old o rings to the parts house and they will give you new one's
good luck
good luck
