clutch related or hydrallic
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clutch related or hydrallic
I have been having some issues with my car and the pedal sticking down. I have read a lot about it and seems like it can be a few things, often hydrallic related. So what it does is after going through a few high rpm shifts i notice the pedal begins to get soft and wants to not come fully up. It does not completely stick on the floor but it does not feel "normal" pump it a few times after and goes back to normal. This seems to happen easier if the car has been drove for a while and is warm. It also seems to be shifting a little more "notchy" does not feel as smooth a lot of the time, esp when transmission is cold. So far the only thing that I have done was suck the fluid out and replace it, did that then drove some and did again. Originally it was pretty black.
A few people have said that it could be pressure plate related, some said hydrallic. Any ideas? Car is all stock with exception of pro 5.0, 40k miles. I have yet to bleed it, thinking that I may change fluid and bleed it to start with and see if any change. What are you guys thoughts?
A few people have said that it could be pressure plate related, some said hydrallic. Any ideas? Car is all stock with exception of pro 5.0, 40k miles. I have yet to bleed it, thinking that I may change fluid and bleed it to start with and see if any change. What are you guys thoughts?
#2
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Try switching to Wilwood EXP600 Plus DOT 4 fluid, it has a 633ºF 417ºF dry/wet boil point. You can find it online or at a local speed shop.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-290-6209
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-290-6209
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So you guys think drilling it then switching to dot 4 will fix the issues or is it hard to say just need to do it and see? Also are there any down sides to doing the drill mod? If i switch to tick master down the road is there any disadvantages to drill mod?
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#8
I did the drill mod on my car, it eliminates the fluid restriction in the line that causes slow return of the clutch pedal. The DOT4 fluid will help also, since it has a much higher boiling point than DOT3. There are no downsides to the drill mod. Just make sure you flush the line out with clean brake fluid after drilling to ensure that all metal filings are washed out
As the other said Wilwood fluid is excellent. Personally I run ATE Super Blue DOT4 in my clutch and brake systems, and it has been very good.
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Went to the track and it really did this problem. It was agrivating that it would do it though because it would do it every time after the 4th gear shift (which wasn't a huge factor on runs just annoying), some times to third gear, if i did a burnout it almost always did it on the 2-3 shift.
I think I will start with the drill mod and fluid replace and go from there, what do you guys think?
I think I will start with the drill mod and fluid replace and go from there, what do you guys think?
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I just looked on the install university page for the drill mod and it does it while doing the master cyclinder swap, (i have yet to actually look at the car) is it possible to get the lines off with out taking out the master?
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The master cylinder really isnt that bad to pull out. it is only 2 nuts right behind the clutch pedal, plus the clip that holds the rod on the pedal. You then have to just wiggle it out from under the brake master. I installed my Tick Master by myself in about 40 min
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I know but I dont want to have to spend the money right now if i can help it, would just be nice to do it while it will all be apart, but I think I will try to do just the drill mod and fluid and then see how it works and go from there.