LPP Headers?
05-17-2010, 04:02 PM
#1
LPP Headers? What kind of modifications have to be made to install these headers on a stock car? I read something about having to modify the K member. Is that only on an aftermarket K-member? What got changed in the new version of the headers? Will the oil cooler have to be deleted? How many of you have ever had a problem with the bolts breaking off in the heads?
05-17-2010, 04:07 PM
#2
I have a set of the original batch of LPPs and I had zero fitment issues. I think the issues you'll have are the same as any other long tube install.
Almost all long tubes require deletion of the oil cooler and the LPPs are no exception.
The factory used anti-seize on the manifold bolts, so it is unlikely that you will snap any manifold bolts.
Almost all long tubes require deletion of the oil cooler and the LPPs are no exception.
The factory used anti-seize on the manifold bolts, so it is unlikely that you will snap any manifold bolts.
05-17-2010, 07:35 PM
#3
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my llp clone version#1 longtube fitment issues when like this, #8 pipe needed flattened some because it was/is vibrating on the chassis ,the #1 pipe needed heated up and dinged where it was all over the steering link,the steering link also needed rounded and smoothed to add extra clearance courtesy of a bench top grinder.Had to notch the stock k-member on driverside to clearence the collector,my bmr k-member i have now has **** tons o' room. had to ditch the oil cooler,not that it made any difference.extended pass side o2. the angles @/with the y-pipe fit like **** and was binding on the headers. so i cut off the slip on joints bought turbo vband flange kits and welded them in ...imo that mod ROCKS! they don't leak and come apart easier when i need them to 
P.S. do replace your motor mounts with poly ,it helps with clearence and makes engine rigid ,IMO
P.S. do replace your motor mounts with poly ,it helps with clearence and makes engine rigid ,IMO
05-17-2010, 10:52 PM
#5
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all plugs can be changed #2 pass side is a bitch but do-able #6 and #8 are best done thru the bottom after removing starter.dont let this worry you,also i found that running plug wires up to the plug as apposed to running them along the header flange like in stock location keeps them safe from touching hott headers.i also run my pass-side plug wires between block and acc bracket..."there is spot just above the idler pully to route them thru" then up to plugs..IMO this is way better than try'n to reroute them in stock placement. i cut and spliced in with two butt connectors a length off wire to reach pass-side o2's 700+ miles sofar on cardone select opti and msd vented cap, some house brand wires and longtubes.
Last edited by defaultexistence; 05-19-2010 at 09:13 PM.
05-17-2010, 11:44 PM
#7
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12 will more than be enough, its the same connection as the o2 you have is ,look at it for reference if its a 94 then most likly one wire tube connector......................
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05-18-2010, 08:30 PM
#14
That thread is ancient history. The mods killed it because LPP was the OP and they heavily marketed the headers. IIRC, once they ceased to be a paying sponsor, the thread was killed along withr all the valuable information. That thread had over 1400 replies and 70 or so pages IIRC.
05-18-2010, 10:26 PM
#15
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My buddy just bought a set of the 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped LPP longtubes in March and Id never buy a set. Id get the Edelbrock Stepped longtubes, kooks or hedmans. He ordered a set, look great, but the fitment sucked, they leaked, had to notch the kmember and had to use a jack to get the bolt holes to line up. I guess they had a Gen 1 set that sucked and a Gen 2 set that were good. Well my buddy paid for the Gen2 and they sent him the shitty Gen1's and he had all these problems and when he tried to contact LPP they refused to get back with him and finally emailed him saying he was **** out of luck. All he wanted was the right headers. Shitty customer service if you ask me. But thats just my 2 cents..
05-19-2010, 05:43 AM
#17
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when i bought my car it had lpp longtubes on it...fitment does suck (no idea if its gen 1 or 2 my previous owner is a dipshit) from day 1 the passenger side has leaked at the flange...he told me just need to change the gasket...come to find out he didnt have the last back bolt in, i couldnt get it in either...my uncle at his shop finally got it in but now its leaking from the center of the flange...driver side, he did some grinding on the steering knuckle..and i think the driver side header is sitting up against the frame...they look pretty but i wouldnt recommend them
05-19-2010, 08:35 PM
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IMO...its always a good idea to check the header flanges with a strait edge for warpage or imperfections, if needed lay headder flange flat on a large belt sander to help correct/straiten surface so it mates with gasket/head properly .
<~Mike~>
<~Mike~>
