FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

Here's my original Post:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">First off here's the hardware I'm running:
Stock Bottom End LS1
Stage 1 Ported Heads
-Rev Double Springs
-Rev Titanium Seats and Retainers
TR 224/224-112 CAM
TD Hardened Push Rods
Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain
SLP Headers
JW Race Built TH400
JW 3400 Stall
Nitrous Steel Driveshaft
Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73

I drive my car everyday, and race every other weekend if possible. Well last Friday I went out lunch in my car to run some errands. The car was running sweet. I get back from lunch park the car and go inside. About 4 hours later I leave work to head home. I turn the key the starter turns the crank over for a sec then stops. I try to start again, I hear "thunk" each time I turn the key. Definately the starter trying to turn the flywheel, but the flywheel aint moving.

Anyway I leave my car at work and come back the next day (sat) with my jack and some tools. I jack the front up and check to see if the starter maybe loose and isn't engaging the fly wheel. Everything is tight, I had my friend turn the key and the start tries to turn the crank but can't. I grabbed my torque wrench and socket and try to turn the crank over manually. The crank would not turn at all. Felt like a valve is fighting me, like a piston is trying to come up and the cam is pushing a valve down. I have a double roller timing chain and its solid, I know there is no way it could have jumped a tooth and made the timing off. Anyway I used my wrench to turn the crank counter clock wise and was able to turn the crank like normal, but if i went clockwise my wrench comes to a dead stop in the same spot everytime. At this point I said screw it and decided to rotate the crank counter clock wise again and try to start the car. I turned the key and the car tried to turn over but wouldn't fire up, tried again but had to give it alot of gas for it to fire, it finally fired up, but would not idle unless I fed it gas. There was a "clanking" sound coming from the engine. I shut it down and called a tow truck.

So I towed my car to my garage and was just able to work on the car tonite. I pulled my air filter and noticed a small pool of liquid inside my throttle body. I pulled the TB and examined the liquid, it was coolant! There was also a little blackness from some oil, but the liquid was definately orange coolant. It looks like the coolant got into the TB from the fresh air hose that runs to the pas. valve cover. I didn't pull the intake yet to look further, but I did pull the valve covers and spark plugs. I got my wrench and tried to turn the crank manually. I got like 2 rotations then the crank came to a dead stop again. Tomorrow I will be pulling my intake and heads. I examined my Rev valve springs and everything looks good. I will be able to examine them better when I pull the heads.

Anyway WTF happened to my engine? Cars been running friggin awesome then I goto leave work and it comits suicide!

So far I'm guessing that maybe I dropped a valve? I don't know how this explains coolant inside the TB, I dont think its a blown head gasket just by the way it was clanking when it finally started.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well last night I started to pull the heads. I wanted to drain my oil 1st, but when I opened the oil drain plug coolant came out. I was actually kind of happy to see this, I was hoping that it would just be a blown head gasket. Well I pulled the driver side head off first. I could not believe what I saw. I had to take a picture of this for you all to see.

Take a Look:
<img src="http://www.cancreations.com/lee/e1.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.cancreations.com/lee/e2.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.cancreations.com/lee/e3.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.cancreations.com/lee/e4.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.cancreations.com/lee/e5.jpg" alt=" - " />

I have no idea how this happened. The only thing I can think of is a piece of the head broke off and was caught in the cylinder. It just totally shredded the #1 piston and the head.

Now I'm faced with the decision of what to do. I don't know if its even worth it to rebuild the bottom end, I am definately going to need a new head.

More than likely I think I am going to buy a long block from like ARE. I just hope I don't have to wait like 2 months or more to get onem this is my daily driver.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Lee

Here are some more pics FRAGGED 1
FRAGGED 2
FRAGGED 3
FRAGGED 4
FRAGGED 5

<small>[ February 22, 2003, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: FEAR THE LS1 ]</small>

Bakerman

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I just can't look. THE CARNAGE!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

No idea what was banging around in there man?

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea how this happened. I always run with my Air filter on, I have the K&N FIPK. The car has been running the best it ever has for months. Everytime I ran at the track I kept slowy getting new best times. Then I goto leave work last week and the car DOA.

Lee

Toxic Texan

Damn I have never seen that. Good luck on your rebuild.

GeorgeC

Ouch! Man, I really hate seeing pictures like that. That really does bite.

There's no doubt that something went through that cylinder. What's strange is that the car was fine when you shut it off, then suddenly locked up. I don't think I would have persisted in cranking the car when you discovered that something was preventing the motor from turning freely, but hindsight is 20/20.

I'd be very interested in finding out exactly what did happen.

Anyway, sorry about your misfortune, and good luck with whatever you choose to do. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Cal

iTrader: (1)

How does the spring presure on that cylinder look?

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

I've only visually inspected the springs, I didn't see any broken. I am going to have the pressure check because I want to know too. I am going to do my best to try and figure out what caused this.

It always my luck, if some weird *** thing is possible, it will happen to me.

I put a call into Wade at ARE, I need a lead time on getting a 382 long block sent to FL. I am also eye balling Terry Burgers 396. I sent him an email. I just need to move quickly on getting the car back together.

Thanks for the sympathy guys, all I can do for the rest of the weekend is <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

Lee

get_sum

what size (i.e. degree retainer locks) are you running.. I think that maybe one of those puppies weren't in quite right when you did your spring swap when you put your cam in... who knows for sure though???

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Man, sorry to see that, good luck, and I hope you get it fixed soon.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Did you lose a valvekeeper when you installed the heads or springs? Just a guess. The damage looks like it could've been inflicted by an object of similar size.

David Plum

Valve seat poss. came apart or out if the block looks ok hone it .005 over replace pistons and rods 500.00 for pistons 490.00 eagle h beams one new head have it ported to match and you'll be on the road again.

Caswell

Pardon the niave question, but how did the coolant get into the oil? Was the head gasket shredded up as well? Just trying to edumacate myself.

Sorry for your breakage... sounds like a nice reason to go to a 382cid stroker though.

Liquidnutz

Hate to see it man, was hoping you would get out with just a blown head gasket. Best of luck with your next setup.

Bakerman

iTrader: (1)

are all your valvespring seats/shims accounted for?

Dyno

There is no way for a valve spring or keeper to get into the cylinder. I have seen this twice on warranty motors I have taken apart. A small piece of the piston between the top of the upper rings and deck will break and the part will bounce around and eventually exit out the exhaust valve. It will markup the head like yours did, but many times it is still OK to run. Smooth it out and buy one piston assembly and you will be back at the track. Good luck. Dyno

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I lost a rod and a piston, so I feel your pain. I have been amassing parts since october. You can get the heads welded and repaired for around $300 since you have money into the port work. I would also do a valve job, and check out all the springs, seals, guides and retainers while they are apart. Looks like damage from a spring breakage or a bent valve that wasn't closing completely. I agree that starting the car was a bad idea. I would buy Terry's engine if you are in a rush to get a working motor. It would take the sponsors a considerable amount of time to build you one. Good luck whichever route you end up taking.

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Turn the motor over by hand till you get to Bottom Dead Center, How does the cylender wall look? Those chuncks look like liner...

Ryan K.

Glenn98ZM6

pop that intake valve out, looks like the valve seat came out.

LS1derfull

What size valves are you running? Broken oversize seat insert could leak coolant. Make sure you thoroughly clean intake since debris can be inside it from situation like this. If there is any doubt about hydrolocking or hydraulicing motor than check rods for bending at machine shop, dont take any chances reusing parts with out checking them first.

Toxic Texan

any new info?