Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

So when I made up the custom Y I didn't research the crap out of the V-Band clamps I was going to use like I do everything else. As it turns out bad mistake!


I bought the Dynatech V-Bands from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTC-60-912300S/


I quickly noticed they wouldn't seal for crap just putting the clamp on. I then bought Mr.Gasket graphite material with the wire mesh and made my own gaskets. Over time though these two blew out. I then bought soft Copper sheet and made gaskets but they don't seal well. I have thought about pulling them out, coating both sides with Ultra-Copper RTV and trying again or....

I have been searching all over for the good ones. These will have alignment and a seal (o-ring). Well I found them or at least one maker that has these features:

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1067_1125_1202


They have a Viton o-ring seal and male/female connections. What is everyone else using?

I thought about ball/socket instead or if I could make my gaskets work. Word of advice though don't get the Dynatechs!!!!!!!

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Fireball gave me these he uses:

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=106

Don't know if they have the seal provision. This will be a nice thread to see what is out there in the V-Band World that really works and is 100% leak-tight.

bene

iTrader: (16)

I have the same Dynatech on mine from summit and it's still leak free. I've had it for more than a year now.

Here is the pic

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Man I'm right there with you. I bought some Dynatech Vbands about a year ago and they leak like crazy. I had them installed by a reputable performance shop here in Montgomery too, so I know the welding was done right. I never tried any form of gasket, but I did make a habbit of getting the pull bar out and wrenching the nuts down on them every once in a while. Last time I double nutted them in hopes that they wouldn't loosen up any more. That didn't seem to slow the leaking down. It appears that I've tightened the clamps so much that I've bent them

So... screw Vbands, I'm going with ball and socket connectors when I build my duals. I already bought these, just waiting to put it under the knife (and weld it all myself):

Summit Header Buddies #SUM-G4772


Hedman X-Tensions #18718


Those two items were less than $50 too, less than one Vband clamp

Screw V bands...

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Don't know about the seal on those. They look interesting. I'm more familiar with the Flowmaster style which is like a factory Mustang H-pipe:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/15930/10002/-1

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Not to doubt you but are you sure they are 100% leak free? Mine don't sound like your typical leak but I know they are. When I go WOT then back off I smell exhaust in the car. Metal to metal it is just extremely hard to seal without anything there.

bene

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, I'm sure they are. I've taken them off both multiple times and checked to see if there is any exhaust soot or signs of leaks. None.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

You are a lucky one. What's the secret?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I have the Napa band clamps, not the v style, they leak, I hate them and need something else. I would like to hear what people are using to seal a slip fit header flange and y pipe.

FasTimeSS

iTrader: (47)

who put those in for you? Just curious

Mine don't leak a bit.

bene

iTrader: (16)

A performance muffler shop in Little Rock, AR, Arkansas Performance Exhaust aka APE.

No secret at all. No gaskets in between. That's why I was dumb struck as you guys have the leak issues.

Weezzer

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...teel-Clamp-Kit

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

I know there are some clamps that have the same idea as V-band clamps but they are not. All i remember is the outside clamp is purple and holds boost the best.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

V bands are just so freakin expensive. The link above prices 3" Vbands for $76. If you paid someone to weld them in for you then you'd have close to $200 in it. Screw that. I think I'm going to cut mine out and weld in my ball/socket style flange. I'll have less than $50 total in it.

ADM

These clamps are used on pneumatic systems on aircraft engines. The trick we have learned from experience is to tap hard on the clamp with a mallet as you are tightening, you will vibrate the two ends flush together and when you go back to tighten the nut again, you will feel it has gotten loose.

This technique has worked flawlessly for decades in the aviation industry, give it a try.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Now that's a decent Idea... Maybe I'll give that a try. I hope I haven't bent my stupid clamps too bad by overtightening. I also want to say that the shop that installed them for me hit the mating surface of the flange with steel wool too. I took his word for it because I was standing beside some bracket car that had like five aluminum Vband clamps that they had tig welded to its intercooler system in the passenger seat. I remember that they didn't leak after they put them in, but over time they started to.

NastyNate65

Im looking for the best way to connect my y-pipe to my headers without welding. It looks like if you use the ball and socket you would have to weld it in. I dont have a welder and its near impossible to get to the top side of the header pipe with a welder (Ive tried). I dont want to waste my money with V-bands if they are going to leak. So what is everyone using and having success with???

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I use the ones from race parts solutions and they work great. The common problem with v-bands is they lack a inner locating ring or groove. The ones from race parts solutions have an inner ring and a o-ring to help them seal. Most of the problems come from bad welding. The best way to do it is to weld as much of the setup either in a fixture or on the car if possible, small amout of pull can make them not seal or not line up correctly.

The previous v-bands I used on my headers were from ATP turbo, they had 2 flat surfaces and no locating ring. I cut and added a locating ring to the v-bands and it has drastically improved the sealing. The ring is almost a precision fit and keeps the v-bands aligned while the clamp keeps them tight, but a clamp will not make up for sloppy welding. I generally try to weld at least 75% of the tube if possible and once we go to bench welding I take my time and keep the heat out of the part as much as possible.