Canadian Members - New clutch advice for 94' T56?

Well, tranny stopped shifting, and from what I have tried thus far, and from what a number of people have told me according to the symptoms I have, after I trying bleeding the clutch (which I have been told is NOT fun), and that does not resolve the issue, I am assuming my clutch is done. Now it does have 235xxx km's on it now, and even though I have taken it relatively easy on it, it is making a bit more power now than stock, and given the mileage and I would imagine the abuse it has been put through in its life, I am not surprised.

That being said, what I am looking for is what clutches people suggest for a slightly modded LT1 T56 car. I know people like newer C6 Z06 clutches in their LS1 T56's, but are those clutches the same as LT1 powered cars? I know I would prefer not to put a stock clutch back in, since if I ever do mod it more, it makes no sense to put that back in.

Thanks!

Matt

The "tranny stopped shifting" ... is a pretty vague description.

I had a tranny stop shifting entirely, and it was a roll pin in the shift rail that dropped out from being abused repeatedly, thus, preventing the tranny from shifting into ANY gear (you could move the shifter around all day long, but nothing would happen).

I just want to make sure you're not barking up the wrong tree ;).

As far as clutches, you are correct, that an LSx style clutch is entirely different than an LT1 clutch. I don't know which LT1 clutch to recommend ... some names off the top of my head are Centerforce, Spec, McLeod. All I know of LT1 clutches are A) they're "unique" (due to the "pull" action instead of "push") and B) they carry a "unique" price tag :rolleyes:. Hopefully somebody has a more specific clutch recommendation for you.

The "tranny stopped shifting" ... is a pretty vague description.

I had a tranny stop shifting entirely, and it was a roll pin in the shift rail that dropped out from being abused repeatedly, thus, preventing the tranny from shifting into ANY gear (you could move the shifter around all day long, but nothing would happen).

I just want to make sure you're not barking up the wrong tree ;).

As far as clutches, you are correct, that an LSx style clutch is entirely different than an LT1 clutch. I don't know which LT1 clutch to recommend ... some names off the top of my head are Centerforce, Spec, McLeod. All I know of LT1 clutches are A) they're "unique" (due to the "pull" action instead of "push") and B) they carry a "unique" price tag :rolleyes:. Hopefully somebody has a more specific clutch recommendation for you.

Sorry, I was in a hurry yesterday, and just pasted this inquiry on a few boards. More specifically, if the car is at a stop, I can shift the transmission into most of the gears (except reverse) with little to no hesitation. Though when I release the clutch to start moving, you can definitely hear a chattering noise before it is released fully. The day it happened, (and it just happened one day, was completely fine beforehand) I could get the shifter into gear, but it only went in with a little force, so stopped driving it after I got it home.

Hopefully that is a little more clear!

I liked the RAM Powergrip I had in my car when it was T56. Drove close to stock and held up to 6000 rpm launches on drag radials! Sounds to me like one of the damper springs on the clutch disc got out and is stuck between the flywheel and disc so you never get the clutch to fully disengage. That happened to my stock clutch disc.

Bleeding LT1 clutches is very easy. Bleeding LS1 clutches is very hard ( or can be ) For an LT1 clutch simply pop the slave cyl off the trans and using a big screwdiver or the like pump the piston of the slave inwards until all the bubbles come out of the top of the reservoir. Easy peasy.

As for clutch? The disk isnt nearly as important as the pressure plate. What you want is the LT4 pressure plate you can see a visible difference between the stock LT1 and the LT4 plate on the clutch fingers. The Lt1 plate has a lot more ridges stamped into the fingers where the LT4 plates fingers are smoother. Most aftermarket clutch companies use the LT4 pp even the McLeod twin uses the LT4 plate.

Bleeding LT1 clutches is very easy. Bleeding LS1 clutches is very hard ( or can be ) For an LT1 clutch simply pop the slave cyl off the trans and using a big screwdiver or the like pump the piston of the slave inwards until all the bubbles come out of the top of the reservoir. Easy peasy.

As for clutch? The disk isnt nearly as important as the pressure plate. What you want is the LT4 pressure plate you can see a visible difference between the stock LT1 and the LT4 plate on the clutch fingers. The Lt1 plate has a lot more ridges stamped into the fingers where the LT4 plates fingers are smoother. Most aftermarket clutch companies use the LT4 pp even the McLeod twin uses the LT4 plate.

I heard bleeding was a big job, thanks for the info about that, and the pressure plate! No one has mentioned that yet, and I have posted on a few board.

When you let the clutch go does it make very weird sounds? If yes, then it's your clutch.

I went through a few of those LT clutches man lemme tell ya LOL. Anyways good luck

We have good luck using Spec clutches. Please call for quote.
Rob.
416 751-8047

We have good luck using Spec clutches. Please call for quote.
Rob.
416 751-8047

I am thinking I will be going with a Spec stage 2 clutch, but my question is, does the stock master and slave cylinders have enough power to push in that heavier clutch? For that matter, is the stock hydraulic system sufficient for any aftermarket clutch?

Thanks!

Yes the stock hydraulics work fine. With LT1 clutches they ALL use the same pressure plate due to the design. The friction material used is what gives them more holding power.

Yes the stock hydraulics work fine. With LT1 clutches they ALL use the same pressure plate due to the design. The friction material used is what gives them more holding power.

I appreciate the info, and the NOT calling me out being a complete newbie at this stuff :D

Im using a Ram HDX clutch kit in mine. Has put up with three years of abuse and still going. Im just a bolt-on lt1 car and its held up fine and still going. If anything i would upgrade to the powergrip or a Spec 2 or 3.

Just as an update, got the new clutch in, and it seems to be working out alright, grabs pretty much like stock, and feels like stock, probably a little better to boot. So I am happy about that...

However, a new problem has arisen, was driving the car at the start of the week, and now the steering wheel, and going down a relatively straight and flat road, little to no wind, and the steering wheel shakes just a little back and forth. Now the tires are not new anymore, and one of them I found out that same day when I took a look has a screw in it (not losing air yet, though I am sure it will), but I don't think a screw would unbalance the wheel to that point of noticing it. I have been told it could be the steel belts have shifted in the tires, or that one of the wheels could of lost a balance weight...whatever it is, it is annoying, as the car has been fine before. Other than a few slow speed bumps, I cannot think of anything that could of disturbed the front end that much...

Thanks for any and all suggestions!

P.S. Going to CT tonight to put on the new front 2 tires, going to see if that makes a difference...

Well it appears the issue was the tires, whew. Now I might actually get to drive the car...what a concept! lol