vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

I am looking into one of the two coil per cylinder conversions out there

The LTCC by baily engineering (which utilizes LS1 coil packs)
http://www.bailey-eng.com/

Or the Delteq which utilizes caddy northstar coil packs
http://www.delteq.com/

Which one is he most reliable unit and easiest to install. Is there any performance advantages of going this route rather than the traditional optispark... who here has done one of these and what is your review on it

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

You won't see a performance advantage. Both use the optical sensor still, so what are you accomplishing? There are MANY fast cars that still utilize the opti-spark (cap, rotor, sensor and all) with no issues. All it takes is an afternoon to remove it and properly seal it to make sure no moisture gets in (a vented one helps also). I haven't had one problem thus far.

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

My opti got soaked when I was washing the engine and the car would not fire for a week. But after it dried out it would run fine.... so I figured with the cost of a new opti I can just spend a little bit more and get rid of the part that tends to be the most temperamental on the opti... the cap and rotor

MickT/AWS6

had a buddy use the ltcc and he liked it but still had a problem with his opti after a while then built a 396 and just used the opti, i still use my opti. But if you really want to eliminate the opti due to reliability issues then youre better off completely eliminating it like the 24x kit from eficonnections, bit more expensive but the guys on here say it works like a champ. If my opti takes a crap a few more times once im back from my deployment then i might get rid of it. Just weigh your options as far as total cost and then ask some guys who've done the swap what the real world costs and benefits are from it.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Cap and rotor didn't make it not start so you will still have the same problem when you wash it or get water back down in there. If it runs now leave it alone. The front of my car was under water for an entire day because of a flood we had and I let it sit for a week with the hood open to dry out and it ran fine for 7 more years. and 50k miles before I did an engine build.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I still say remove it and seal it up. You won't have a problem if you do it right.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

I 100% agree if your having to repace it. Thats what I did when I built my 383. Little rtv on my vented so I would not have a problem. It's up to you OP You know the rules of Opti's so if you want to spend the time to replace and seal it up, go for it. If it runs fine again, me I would wait and do it down the road. BUT you never know when that bastard is going to rear it ugly head. lol good luck with it.

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

Where do I seal and what do I use RTV silicone. Which optisparks are best..... should I just go GM or msd dynaspark accell summit

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

I a using a summit racing opti on my 383 but I only drive on the weekends or maybe 5k miles a year. I have 3500 on my summit and it runs good. What year are u

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

My optispark is The nonvented unit. Should I try to Retro install a vent tube on it like I have seen in some of the magazine articles

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

My vette is a 94 and I barely put 5k a year on it.... I mainly take out on nice days to car shows and cruises..... its now a garage queen

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Get the MSD cap and rotor which has a vented cap and comes with the hoses. Use a good sealant. I used clear waterproof silicone which worked great and you can also use "The Right Stuff". I use it for a lot of thing. Works great

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

Is the msd optispark worth the money.... I have heard mixed reviews about them plus I haven't had the best luck with their coils and ignition boxes in the past

hyperzone

I had the delteq for the longest time. No issues with it what-so-ever. I would say its easier. I dont know about performance differences between the two. It is a plug and play unit so, no cutting into wires or anything, just moving some plugs around. That is a plus in case you want to revert back to just the opti for whatever reason later.

I'm not sure if the LTCC is plug and play so, there might be slightly more work putting it in. Delteq comes with a bracket to hold their coil packs on the valve cover and the LTCC you'll have to make/design your own or buy some from someone else.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I don't know from personal experience. Just get a Delco opti with an MSD cap+rotor and you'll be fine. Hell, I have a NAPA re manufactured opti with an msd cap and rotor and i sealed it up and has been running strong for over 4 years. car has seen pretty high RPM's regularly as well

vettezilla

iTrader: (1)

Coould I just get away with a MSD cap and rotor on my stock unit then you think.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Yes (assuming it works). Just seal it up good with silicone. Make sure you make a nice seal and don't goop it inside the cap lol

illusions

iTrader: (3)

I have the LTCC and if I had to do it all over again i would seriously go with the EFI connections 24x conversion and run the LSx computer. The price would be about the same between the LTCC and the EFI once you factor in the harness and brackets for the coil packs. The EFI conversion pkg eliminates the opti all together. It's the only true opti-elimination option.

with the EFi system you will also be able to use the lsx tuning software so you will be able to find someone to custom tune it easier than trying to locate a lt1 custom tuner.

shbox

Not sure Delteq is still in business. No one has seemed to be able to get tech support from them in ages.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

The ignition upgrades themselves might not net a gain, but the coil-per cyclinder should be a better design for high rpm builds...depends what your plans are.