to dry sleeve or bore a 6.0
#1
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to dry sleeve or bore a 6.0
I purchased a 6.0 from a junkyard, been in small fire... melted thin plastic breather and wires melted down over everything, intake was not damaged, but had burned plastic all over it.
inspected 317 heads, looks good.. Block is good, but water was in cyl #1.. so after solvent to free and rotate engine.. it has pits in the cyl wall one spot 1.25-1.5 inches from top, about 0.003-0.004 deep.. enough to have blow by ..
the cylinders have zero ridges.. and look great.
it's not going to be a track engine, going in Silverado..small 216, cai, cam, headers, ls6 heads etc.. see track time maybe 2 times a year (shooting for only high 13's, but mainly DD with some extra go)
I can go $680 in 030 pistons, another $150 for bore, $275 for balancing.
About $1500 (best for quality) and spend
or
I could have a sleeve put in for $200 (includes honing cyl afterwords to true up after block heat). plus another $150 for block clean and cam bearing
About $350
That does not include: oil pump, gaskets rings, bearings, $200 katach rod bolts that I would put in either build
I've had several people say they have had good luck with sleeved blocks....
but a couple who said it's not a good idea.. as dry sleeve would have heat issues etc.
Engine is a 6.0 out of a AWD 2004 Escalade..
I've thought about finding a "good bore" cheap lq4 bare block and stick the lq9 factory balanced rotating assembly in it..
But the sleeve deal is so far cheaper than a used block.
Anyone have bad luck with dry sleeved block???
inspected 317 heads, looks good.. Block is good, but water was in cyl #1.. so after solvent to free and rotate engine.. it has pits in the cyl wall one spot 1.25-1.5 inches from top, about 0.003-0.004 deep.. enough to have blow by ..
the cylinders have zero ridges.. and look great.
it's not going to be a track engine, going in Silverado..small 216, cai, cam, headers, ls6 heads etc.. see track time maybe 2 times a year (shooting for only high 13's, but mainly DD with some extra go)
I can go $680 in 030 pistons, another $150 for bore, $275 for balancing.
About $1500 (best for quality) and spend
or
I could have a sleeve put in for $200 (includes honing cyl afterwords to true up after block heat). plus another $150 for block clean and cam bearing
About $350
That does not include: oil pump, gaskets rings, bearings, $200 katach rod bolts that I would put in either build
I've had several people say they have had good luck with sleeved blocks....
but a couple who said it's not a good idea.. as dry sleeve would have heat issues etc.
Engine is a 6.0 out of a AWD 2004 Escalade..
I've thought about finding a "good bore" cheap lq4 bare block and stick the lq9 factory balanced rotating assembly in it..
But the sleeve deal is so far cheaper than a used block.
Anyone have bad luck with dry sleeved block???
#2
The iron 6.0 blocks will take a .030" overnbore no problem and that will fix any bore problem you see. You stated you plan to use 4.03" pistons so to me that answers the question. No need for a sleeve.
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like I said... water was sprayed in the engine when i caught fire (minor fire) and junkyard never drained cylinders.. one had some water it it, and so did another cyl.. but#1 has a bad spot.. what I get for a $475 Lq9 junkyard engine.
I was just asking if anyone had any bad experiences with sleeved bores on an iron block...
thanks
#7
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I meant that I'd prefer not to have to spend $680 for aftermarket pistons, a $150 bore job, and $275 re balancing etc when I have a factory balanced rode, crank pistons from.. just one bore has a 1/8 inch by 1/2 inch pit and about .002 deep maybe (rough guess).. the rest of are good, none of them have ridges...
like I said... water was sprayed in the engine when i caught fire (minor fire) and junkyard never drained cylinders.. one had some water it it, and so did another cyl.. but#1 has a bad spot.. what I get for a $475 Lq9 junkyard engine.
I was just asking if anyone had any bad experiences with sleeved bores on an iron block...
thanks
like I said... water was sprayed in the engine when i caught fire (minor fire) and junkyard never drained cylinders.. one had some water it it, and so did another cyl.. but#1 has a bad spot.. what I get for a $475 Lq9 junkyard engine.
I was just asking if anyone had any bad experiences with sleeved bores on an iron block...
thanks
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I've seen those stock cast replacement pistons, $400 and they have massive CC's 4 valve reliefs on each piston.. need to run a 55 cc head to get any compression out of em.. might as well be a stock 7 cc dished piston.
if I have to go aftermarket pistons, might as well do it right.. get some pistons with only 2 valve reliefs .. So I agree, do it once, do it right..
The right way would be to have EVERYTHING done, line hone the crank and cam bores on block, new lifter bores, block squared, decked etc etc, valve guides on heads.. valve job.. New rods, new main caps
by the time I "do it right" it would be $5000 not counting performance parts..
The bores in this block are great except pitting in cyl no 1... I just asking if anyone had any bad exp with sleeving an iron block to mend a bad bore..
Anyways, Thanks for your responses everyone