Nitrous on a stock crank
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nitrous on a stock crank
Heres a question for the nitrous junkies. I'm building a 409 for my Z and I was wondering, if you have forged pistons, and rods, is a crank really needed? I've heard stories of guys running stock cranks on forged set-ups pushing 700+hp. However these are 346 set ups. Could I use a 6.0 crank? I mean I could save some cash if this is possible.
#4
the stock crank is probably the strongest part of the LS1 engine...many tuners use the stock crank for up to 600-700 hp motors, then they may use the Lunati or the Moldex. LPE build stage 1+ turbo stock displacment vettes with lunati pistons and rods, but will reuse the stock crank and get 600+rwhp on auto cars...and they are always overkill in terms of durability.
SDB
SDB
Trending Topics
#8
10 Second Club
a 6.0L crank will be just fine and will hold the same amount of power as the LS1 but it is heavyier. i sold mine to get a LS1 crank, had it offset ground to a 3.71 stroke, and put it in my 6.0L block. i will be spraying this motor with tons of spray soon and i am confedent at least that the crank will take it.
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
What do you all think about the eagle crank ?
I have some TEA 2.08/1.60 6.0 Heads on the way, i have a stock 6.0 shortblock sitting here, and im in the process of trying to decide what pistons/rods/crank to use.
I was going to use Diamond Pistons, Eagle Rods w/ARP's, and an Eagle Crank.
I will probably spray 300 to it, what do you guys think.
I have some TEA 2.08/1.60 6.0 Heads on the way, i have a stock 6.0 shortblock sitting here, and im in the process of trying to decide what pistons/rods/crank to use.
I was going to use Diamond Pistons, Eagle Rods w/ARP's, and an Eagle Crank.
I will probably spray 300 to it, what do you guys think.
#10
On The Tree
Originally Posted by taqwache
a 6.0L crank will be just fine and will hold the same amount of power as the LS1 but it is heavyier.
I think the weight issue isn't really an issue, since most of the weight variances has alot to do with how much bobweight had to be removed to balance the assembly.
Also, if there is any hard proof that there is a measurable (and consistant) weight difference, with the LS1's being lighter, it's because the main journals are hollow, so you're talking about a miniscule amount of mass, that's only in the very center of the pivot point. It would make more of a difference if the weight was out on the ends of the bobs or the rod journals, but being at the very center of the rotation, the parasitic effects are negligable.
I personally think the additional material in the center of the main journals makes it that much stronger, and you don't have the stress points of a 90* angle either.
Just my $.02
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
Posts: 2,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
btw, i've seen one broken. most likely a freak, but shattered none the less. it was in a 6L block where a rod didnt quite clear the pan, and contacted the crank. Matt, still have those pics up?
#12
On The Tree
They are somewhere... I'd have to go track them down.... That crank actually looked like it broke because of extreme heat fatigue. The main bearing was spun REAL bad and the crank was discolered in the area around the break....