97 Trans Am ws6

Not really sure if this is the right forum, i know about the auto trans forum but seems hard to get a answer to any question. Im looking around for a new torque converter and just wonder if i should stay stock or get one with a bigger stall. Two questions tho, first my car has headers, exhaust, gear, and there is a possible shift kit, should i stay with a stock one or go better. Second question is im not looking to spend a ton of money because i just finished doing brakes all the way around and im a little tight for money.
Gotta replace now since the clutch in the stator is bad.

Thanks for any help that can be given and if this is the wrong forum for this im sorry guys but thought should ask since it deals with lt1 motors

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

You shouldn't really cheap out on a converter. You could go with a replacement B&M or something for the time being, until you are ready to do other mods (like a cam or something, where you would more than likely have to get a different converter than that of a bolt-on car). Your call. I would personally spend the money once and buy a PI Vigilante or something along those lines that has a free re-stall. Upward of $800 though.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

A converter is the SINGLE most effective mod that can be done to an auto. It would be a mistake to stick another stock sized stall in the car, I would suggest a 3200 minimum. A converter is also the one thing I would never cheap out on, I dunno your budget but you gotta figure atleast $600+ for a quality converter. Don't forget to get a trans cooler, the B&M 70264 is really popular on here and works great.

97 Trans Am ws6

im not to sure if i will ever cam her, and i dont go to the track, anyone make a decent converter that wont break the bank..im not to sure how much longer i will keep this car

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

If you're planning on selling it soon just get a TCI or B&M or something. Neither will break the bank.

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

i would go with a b&m or tci. im no expert on converters. but i think the yank and the vig and other similar brands are more for drag racing and high hp cars. dont get me wrong they probably work great for any car but its a must for those cars. i think every one else could get away with a TCI or B&M and be fine.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Obviously not....

OP, Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html

With the bad experience my friends have had with PI, I would either be going Circle D or Yank if I had an auto...

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Not quite lol.. I just say throw a B&M in there simply bc they're cheap (which is what you're looking for) and you say you plan on selling the car soon. It will be better than your stock one, just sucks *** compared to another decent converter.

Alteredspeed

iTrader: (7)

Look up Redneck performance. I hope I don't get in trouble because there no a sponsor hear, but good converters at a reasonable price. I have done a lot of research on them and also have one of there 3500 stall 9.5 converters.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Marketing your product by naming the business "Redneck Performance" doesn't seem like such a good idea. Sure doesn't sound enticing to me. Call me narrow-minded but, you don't see many fast cars sporting Redneck converters. I'm sure they work, and it's fine for your setup - but there are far more efficient units (B&M and TCI being a couple of them )

greasemonkeysoldier

iTrader: (1)

http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx

you could try this one....

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

doesn't that thread pretty much point out what im saying though. the stock converters and the b&m really cant take the abuse at the track. i dont hear a lot of people having there stock converter fail prematurely but maybe im wrong like i said im no expert. i get the clutches in the yanks and better brand are way better set up i have read the thread. i personally would get one just becuase i know i could beat it and not worry about it. but if your someone with some mods daily driving the car it would seem to me to be over kill.

i also dont like the idea of pulling one tq converter out of one car and saying look this failed. when god knows what kind of millage and how abused the car was. they could of had a seal leak and drove it with low tranny fluid or been doing brake stands. like i said yes you can see the difference in the clutch ban and lock up surface. but again are we talking overkill for a person who dds a stock car or one with a exhaust?

maybe your better off listening to these guy i don't know. like i said im no expert.

joelster

Sorry to say this but any "performance" converter priced brand new for under $400 or even under $500 is going to be garbage plain and simple. The only way to get a converter to stall high (3000+) and have the cost cheap, is to use a JUNK casing from an older GM vehicle. The insides aren't good enough to handle heat and power from a 350+hp motor. It might last for a little while and provide some enjoyment but it will eventually cause you thousands of dollars in damages when it takes out the tranny by filling it with metal. When you buy a GOOD converter from a reputable company, you get a bigger casing SPECIFICALLY designed to handle a lot of power. It will be welded, and brazed, and will be pretty much indestructable.

JaGSpeed

iTrader: (8)

Is that one any good? For the price it seems like a bit of a deal!

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Circle D makes some high quality converters. The reason the one in the link is only $400 is because it's an 11" diameter with a stall speed up to 2600. It also doesn't have the features that a more expensive converter has, it appears to be great for a mild DD but not want you want behind a high hp car that frequents the track. For $725 Circle D makes a really nice 9.75" converter with a stall speed of 3000-4400, billet front, billet piston, furnace brazed, hand assembled to exact tolerances yada yada yada, you get what you pay for in a converter essentially.

JaGSpeed

iTrader: (8)

Ah okay.

I was thinking of building my car really mild just because I enjoy driving it so much, but I hear a stall is definitely a nice upgrade. My car is an intake/exhaust car that will probably not get much more then a baby cam/longtubes/tune/3.42's or 3.73's. I don't think my budget will allow a higher HP build (full time student).

You think it would fit well for me or should I hold out and go bigger?

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

A stall will definitely add to the fun factor, by far the best thing you can do to an auto. When I DD'd my car I tossed a Yank SS3600 in there and I loved the car all over again. I don't have any personal experiences with the 11" stuff but I cannot see how it wouldn't work out fine with a setup like yours. Thing is, your limited to a 2600 stall max atleast from Circle D so I would save up and do it right. Personally, I don't really see a reason to run a stall smaller than a 3200 with a cam-only hell even a bolt-on LT1, you can get a 3200 to drive damn near stock until you lay into it and the performance is there. Another thing to think about is the rotational mass you save when running for example a 9.75" converter rather than an 11". Maybe give Chris a call or email over at Circle D he is a very helpful guy and give you some more insight.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I run a 9" converter. Significantly lighter than the stocker

Alteredspeed

iTrader: (7)

Why does a performance converter have to be expensive. TCI and B&M are not very efficient converters actually. I'm not trying to be a now it all but call and talk to Loyd Elliot and ask him about TCI and B&M, I bet you'll change your mind. And for that matter do a search on Redneck performance, lots of guys running them, and with good luck. FYI I switched from one of your so called efficient converter company's with the same stall, that was the only mod at that time and picked up 3 tenths and 5 mph with a redneck converter. So don't bash them just yet!