I need your opinion, and maybe your help -- $$ involved
06-16-2010, 11:15 AM
#1
Launching!
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I need your opinion, and maybe your help -- $$ involved Okay, here's the deal. I have my 1997 Z28 with every bolt-on imaginable. Here's the dilemma though:
The car only runs for 8 seconds at a time. After 3 starts, I was able to get it from my street into the garage. Now at least I can work on it, even in the heat of the summer (I'm a teacher so I have 3 months off starting now). Should I
A) Part it out and take whatever cash I can get for the pieces.
B) Strip it down to a rolling chassis (it'll be a great chassis because of all the suspension build pieces like LCAs, SFCs, 32/21 mm sways, Eibach springs, and PHR).
C) Throw more money at the car and try to get it running, then sell it for $3-$4K. Unfortunately, I don't know what is wrong.
BUT if you can fix it (there is a draw somewhere as well as the starting/staying running issue) I'll give you $300. I don't mean diagnose it, but also fix it. I'll be an extra set of hands and eyes, I just don't have any freaking clue what it could be that is causing this.
Thoughts?
The car only runs for 8 seconds at a time. After 3 starts, I was able to get it from my street into the garage. Now at least I can work on it, even in the heat of the summer (I'm a teacher so I have 3 months off starting now). Should I
A) Part it out and take whatever cash I can get for the pieces.
B) Strip it down to a rolling chassis (it'll be a great chassis because of all the suspension build pieces like LCAs, SFCs, 32/21 mm sways, Eibach springs, and PHR).
C) Throw more money at the car and try to get it running, then sell it for $3-$4K. Unfortunately, I don't know what is wrong.
BUT if you can fix it (there is a draw somewhere as well as the starting/staying running issue) I'll give you $300. I don't mean diagnose it, but also fix it. I'll be an extra set of hands and eyes, I just don't have any freaking clue what it could be that is causing this.
Thoughts?
06-16-2010, 11:13 PM
#4
Staging Lane
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Sounds like the fuel pump is only priming when you first turn the key. I'd be willing to be if you put a gauge on it, turn the key, it'll go to where it is supposed to. Then once you start it, the fuel pump does not turn on but burns the fuel in the lines until it dies. Then once it dies, it'll prime itself again.
Do this: Look over by the ECM's wiring under the hood. Over by the big chunk of wires going by the evaporator cover, you'll see a single pin connector with nothing plugged into. Apply 12 volts to that pin. A little bit over wire straight from the battery to that pin. Once you do that, you'll hear the fuel pump kick on. If you don't, then double check. If you do, start the car and see if it runs longer than 8 seconds. Report back.
This is not a permanent fix, just a trouble shooting exercise. Don't do this to drive or you will burn something up if you do have a problem.
Do this: Look over by the ECM's wiring under the hood. Over by the big chunk of wires going by the evaporator cover, you'll see a single pin connector with nothing plugged into. Apply 12 volts to that pin. A little bit over wire straight from the battery to that pin. Once you do that, you'll hear the fuel pump kick on. If you don't, then double check. If you do, start the car and see if it runs longer than 8 seconds. Report back.
This is not a permanent fix, just a trouble shooting exercise. Don't do this to drive or you will burn something up if you do have a problem.
