litch2004

iTrader: (1)

I just finished up with the cam install, full bolt ons, and full UMI rodlink suspension. Now that it actually has heated up i can hear that one maybe two of my rockers are not set correctly. I have a slight ticking noise coming from inside the valve cover. My questions is that I know that I can adjust them while the engine is running, is this just as efficient as turning the motor to top dead center and only doing have at a time? Sorry if I didnt make very much sense just then, I did use shbox directions. Also how much oil can I expect to be coming out with the valve cover is off? Is it going to be going everywhere while its at idle? I have LS7 lifters, tickflow pushrods, and 1.6rr's.

Edit: the tick is exhaust tick. New info at the very bottom.

31camaro

iTrader: (2)

i did it bringing each valve to the bottom of the lift, and doing 1/2 a turn past zero lash

airfix

iTrader: (30)

Lots of people adjust their valves with the engine running. There won't be much oil squirting out of the pushrods at idle. it'll kinda drip out more than anything, if it does squirt out you can use a piece of cardboard and put it between the springs and edge of the head to stop the oil from making a mess.

Hope that makes sense.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

You probably didnt have the lifters on the base of the cam when adjusting them the first time. There should be no reason why there noisy. You adjusted them wrong. You can do it again with the engine off.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

I know I did it wrong. Otherwise I wouldn't have to doing them again.

fleetmgr

This was all covered like a week ago.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ocker-adj.html

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

Well I checked the valves and all are good. So I checked the header and one of the bolts was loose. I tried tightening it back down and it just kept turning. So somehow it pulled the threads out. So what size helicoil do I need? This is the cause of the ticking noise. One horrible exhaust leak.

shbox

3/8-16 is the thread and pitch.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

I just had to helicoil a header bolt, I would not want to do that with the engine in the car

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

It sucks. You would have to use an angle drill to make it easier.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Don't use a heli coil, use a threaded insert and high temp loc tite on the OUTSIDE only.

brucer

use a key locking threaded insert.. you dont use loc-tite on these, they lock in by driving the keys down in the insert. they wont back out and i've never seen them strip..


http://www.mcmaster.com/#key-locking...nserts/=7plfez

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

so which one would i need? My engine is in the car. Obviously I will be having to remove the exhaust on the drivers side. But the noise it getting worse and it is unbearable. All the other ones are good... at least i think they are. This on was good until now. When i did get it out it pulled all the threads out with it. So it is shot. Dont know how it happen. I had a buddy of mine helping me install that side (he had smaller hands) and maybe he stripped it and just conveniently forgot to tell me. Also i have hooker super comps and they are not the easiest to get in there and install the bolts. Are there any options that are easier when it comes to the bolts themselves? And also i reused my header gaskets that were already on there considering they only had maybe 100 miles on them. So im going to trash them this time. Where can i get a set of percy's? I found some at autozone for the collector flange (lifetime reusable aluminum seals) but i would like to get some for the header as well.

Thanks again, Mike.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Helicoils and threaded inserts will both work.. I heli-coiled a head bolt hole in my block. Running 4 years strong under lots of pressure.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

off topic but didnt you swap in an A3 into your car and got rid of the 4L60? If so how hard was it to do it? I notice you are selling your factory harness. were you able to use the factory length DS?

brucer

use ultra seal gaskets, the percys are over priced and have never worked well for me on gen1 engines and headers

heli-coil or the threaded insert will work i just prefer the threaded inserts.

the thread inserts use the 3/8-16 internal thread-1/2-13 external thread.. if it were me i would get the stainless ones.. just dont drill to deep when you drill the hole, i would drill them minimum depth needed

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

can you just buy the amount you need or do you have to buy them in bulk?

brucer

they give a price for 1 to 9 pieces, you should be able to buy them individually.

you can probably purchase them locally at a tool supply place or a fastener supplier.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

o ok. thats good. Im my current location there are so many of them around due to the industrial atmosphere here. I appreciate it

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

It was simple as pie. I am using a 3in tailshaft so I had a custom driveshaft made for me.