02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Almost 97K on my B4C, got gutsy and tackled the dreaded plugs n wires change. Got that link from this forum ( http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...g_and_wire.htm )about doing the plugs n wires, and did all my homework (getting the wires/plugs/antiseize/air pipe gasket). Although the 'how-to' says to do the drivers side first, I (being 55 and having a few physical problems from my 23 years in military) tackled the passenger side first because I didn't want to be 'tired' doing that harder passenger side. Little did I know, the drivers side had a much worse challenge associated with doing this task! The passenger side came apart pretty simply after I found the right combination of my craftsman tools and other off brand stuff. First the negative battery cable came off. Then came the strut tower brace. Then I took the air pipe loose at the manifold, it easily swung up and towards the fender well right out of the way. I chose to take the (4) coil pack completely off the passenger side because for some reason my engine is shifted about an inch towards the passenger side, so it was extra tight there already. The four coil wires came off hesitantly but they did finally give up the fight one at a time. After removing that coil pack, the next step was the plug shields/wires. I made sure the boots were sufficiently rotated/broken off the plug insulator, and used a simple pair of pliers to 'pop' them off one at a time using the manifold shield as a pivot point while grabbing the boot/shield with my other hand and leveraging/pulling at the same time. Pretty easy, after finding the right locations and grip spots with both hands (quite a challenge given the room available, extra smart taking those coil packs off instead of rotating them up off the valve cover). Starting at plug 8, I just easily removed it and inspected the tip. Next was 6, 4, then 2. All four were about the same for wear, nothing out of the ordinary for a set of OEM platinum plugs. They also were .065 gap so they were worn. Getting the new plugs in was textbook. I have for decades been using a tip I learned. Using a small short vacuum hose to grip the plug and just spin it in gently. That hose is only two inches long, enough to grip the plug and stick out far enough to turn it with my fingers. Yes, I did remember to use antiseize on each, it just makes it spin in so much easier! Since the plugs going in were the Delco Iridiums (ACDelco 41-110), I made sure the gap was the required .040. They all were perfect right out of the box! One at a time, starting at 8, they went in. I then set the plug wires/shields in place for when I remounted the coil pack. Starting at 8 again, I put all four in place on each plug. Next came the remounting of the coil pack, the coil pack wire power plug and the coil plug wire leads . It all went together easily. Finally, the air pump pipe/gasket remounted and torqued to the required 15ft lbs and the passenger side was finished!

The drivers side, I thought would be a breeze! Didn't have to remove the air pipe, or the coil pack. I got ready to pull the plug wires/shields off the plugs. #7, you would think that was a lucky number? NOT MINE! Rotating the boot on the plug to break it loose, the wire just falls out. it has this rather thin strand of wire uncurling from the wire like a thread from clothes. Never have I seen this before! OK, simple enough, cut the wire strand and continue, right? I wish! In taking the boot off, it rips, leaving half the head of the boot on the shield. Now I got a problem. Cannot grab the boot, nor can I grab that shield with my hands, pliers (pivot point and pull stuff like the first 4 on the passenger side). Its about 110 in the garage, high intensity tripod mounted 1200 watt halogen shop lamps over my left shoulder, I struggle with getting that damn boot off. FEK it, time for a break before I break that plug ceramic and it drops into the cylinder. After cooling off in the house and consuming two strong cups of coffee, I go back to the #7. Tried gripping the edge of the shield with vise grips, no-go. Tried tying a nylon string knotted tightly in that groove on the shield, no-go. After getting more and more agitated, I thought to try the pliers directly straight on with the jaws gripping at 180 degrees. The jaws fit perfectly, now if I could just squeeze them tight enough to pull straight away from the block (quite a feat involving squeezing the pliers and pulling with both hands on the pliers and shield at the same time). It moved, I think... Tried again, I swear it moved a little more... I gave it a huge squeeze and pull and busted my gloved knuckles and fingers on the fender well/brake lines IT WORKED!!!!!!!!! Damn, that was a mess..... I reached into the hole gripping the tip of the old plug, and tested if it wiggled (therby seeing if the ceramic busted), it was tight... Breathing easier now, I went for another cuppa java and cooldown. #5, 3, and 1 came out real easily. I then took the coil end of the wires off starting at that dreaded #7. When that popped off, a bunch of white pieces dropped out of the coil pack. The damn inner spacer in the plug wire was shattered! Great... Now I am concerned about the condition of the plug. I took the other three wires off, inspecting the spacers and did not find any other spacer shattered. I also checked the old passenger side wires (just to be sure I hadn't missed any debris in the coil pack terminal), nothing broken there either. OK, plug removal time! Back at #7 (yeah, THAT one), I break it loose, unscrew it, pull it out, DAMN! Its got no tip! The ceramic was intact but the tip was gone! FEK the gap, it was HUGE!!!!! OK, do I have a platinum tip floating in my cylinder? Did it already blow out? Is it distroying my piston/valves/cylinder walls? Who knows, right now I got to get this job done! Installing the four plugs/wires was a breeze but lingering in the back (and front/sides/top/bottom) of my mind is WTF happened to that tip? Final break for another cuppa strong java and a much needed bladder drain, I hook up the neg cable and check for anything left off or hiding in the bay area.

Got in, turned the key, it roars to life! No smoke, no rattle, after a few it relearns the idle and is running smooth as silk. No ungodly knocks/rumbles (except the exhaust) nor anything else of the slightest hint of a piston chewing on something tossing about in its path. Maybe I dodged a huge bullet, maybe its wedged in the top in a wad of gunk (that plug was all fowled with carbon and such, hopefully one of those clumps was the tip!), wherever it is I hope it stays there! Took it for a test drive, damn sure is much better in smoothness and pep. Its pulling a lot better now, I give myself a "cautious" Job-Well-done! I sure am glad those plugs are rated for 100K, That job was a BI-ACH!

BeavermanA

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you got it handled. I changed mine a couple months ago for the first time and also broke a wire. Luckily it was the #2 one and wasn't too difficult to get out, all 4 on the passenger side were ridiculously hard to get off the plug. Figured out if they don't come off easy, you need to start twisting the boot back and forth, and then they should just pop right off the plug.

the.palmetto

iTrader: (2)

It makes a huge difference. I changed my plugs and wires (iridium plugs and MSD wires) around the same mileage and it made a huge difference. Throttle response drastically improves with that better spark. Replacing plugs in an LS1 may be a tedious process, but just be glad you don't have the 16 spark plugs that a HEMI motor does!! LOL

02LS1Z28BC

iTrader: (4)

Heya Beverman, I don't think I broke that wire, It was burned and weakened and when I rotated the boot/shield, it just separated. The wire was the only thing still connected.

the.palmetto, I took it out on the highway right afterwards, man what a huge difference in the performance. Outright noticable with the plugs (all of them) gapped right and wires that were not damaged. And, hey, your right on about doing 16 vs 8! I'm not familiar with the space in those engine bays though.....

I think I can honestly say this was the best performance mod I have done to my car. Maybe even better than the hypertech tune. I'll have to reload the tune and let it relearn based on the much better performance and see if it works better and has better milage. Does anyone know if that would be a good idea (reloading the tune to relearn the performances based on better combustion/emmissions)??????