LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Who runs AI Heads/Cam on stock bottom end?

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Old 06-23-2010, 11:06 AM
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Default Who runs AI Heads/Cam on stock bottom end?

I would like to know who all is running AI Heads/Cam on their stock bottom end and how it's holding up. I bought my T/A a few months back, with plans to tear it down this winter and do a somewhat mild build on the motor/trans. Well, a few weeks ago the trans took a dump so I'm beginning to plan and get everything ready a little sooner than expected. I am thinking about going with the AI 200cc Heads/Cam combo. My problem is, the car has 114k miles on it, and I'm a little worried about putting a ton of money in the top end and leaving the bottom end stock (Budget will most likely not let me touch the bottom end). Do you think I will be ok? The car is NOT a DD. It's just going to be a weekend ride and see a little bit of track time. Basically, to give you a run down... here's what I plan on doing

AI Heads/Cam (Not sure which cam yet, though)
Ported Intake
Pacesetter LT W/ ORY
SLP exhaust
Elec WP
3:73's
Yank SS3600
Deleting emissions
Trans will be built to accomodate 500whp (Better safe than sorry)
And a tune.

Theres plenty more I'm sure I forgot to put on, but that will give you the basics. Should I go through with this on the stock bottom end with 114k? I know the car was taken care of pretty well the since '98 but don't have any history before then. What do you guys think?
Old 06-23-2010, 11:27 AM
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as long as your not spinning it to the moon ALL the time youll be fine IMO.
Old 06-23-2010, 11:27 AM
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To be honest 114k is not considered high mileage for LT1s, IMO. There are some cars with over 150k+ with heads/cam packages and they are getting the snot run out of them. If you are concerned, do a leak-down/compression test to check the health of the bottom end. How is your oil pressure? If you have around 10psi at idle and an additional 10psi per 1000rpm, I wouldn't hesitate to throw the AI package on. Keeping the RPMs under 6500 will also help.

FWIW, I'm running the same heads on my 383 and it's putting down the numbers in my sig. You'll be more than happy with it.
Old 06-23-2010, 11:55 AM
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I just installed full bolt ons, cam, stall and full suspension on my 185k+ mile '93 and it is strong so far. My oil pressure like Joe said was and still is 10psi at idle and around 30-40 on the highway. Also my leak down was perfect. I had no issues with my bottom end as of now and it had been beaten to **** by rednecks before I got a hold of it. I say go for it. mone will soon be getting AI 200s as well.
Old 06-23-2010, 01:55 PM
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Good to hear all of this. I'm hoping to get it knocked out this winter and have it on the streets by spring next year. It's just sitting right now, til I feel like pulling the trans and getting started.
Old 06-23-2010, 02:19 PM
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I have 115k on my h/c package and I made more power and trap higher in my full weight street car than almost any other stock short block setup I've seen out there.
Old 06-23-2010, 02:21 PM
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If you want it to last leave your rev limiter stock or only slightly higher than stock. Ive got their 226/234 on stock heads and its a little bit like a dog hitting the end of its leash. I shift right before the limiter everytime and beat on it constantly. Its holding up like a champ at 95k miles. Did the cam at 90k. Yea, it will be leaving some power on the table but its way better than stock and way better than spinning bearings and blowing up opti's all the time. I'll get my RPM fixation on my next build
Old 06-23-2010, 02:32 PM
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also with high mile LT1s i think it is important to run a 40 weight oil.

I also did the white spring oil pump modification, and im sure my engine thanks me for that.
Old 06-23-2010, 02:37 PM
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I ran a 40 wt oil on my 160k mile LT1 and it loved it. Oil pressure was perfect.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:19 PM
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I run the stock bottom end, although we took mine apart, polished the crank a little and went with new bearings. Polishing the crank and getting new bearings WILL NOT break the bank. You can do that on a shoestring budget. Torque everything to spec, run a good oil pump, and your bottom end will last a while. Mines been going since fall of 2006. I shift at 6800. I've probably put 15,000 miles on it. Cold oil pressure on startup goes near 80, and settles to 25ish when hot at an idle.
Old 06-23-2010, 07:19 PM
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Running an elliot portworks or ai (both are comparable) on a stock bottom end is commonplace and a great way to make a very respectable amount power/quick streetable car on a budget. The bottom end should be fine, RPM's are usually what kill these motors, not HP, like the others said, these things where built very well.
Old 06-23-2010, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
Running an elliot portworks or ai (both are comparable) on a stock bottom end is commonplace and a great way to make a very respectable amount power/quick streetable car on a budget. The bottom end should be fine, RPM's are usually what kill these motors, not HP, like the others said, these things where built very well.
Still waiting for proof that RPM kills these motors. Drag racers are running their stock shortblock cars north of 7k rpm's for seasons without any issues while people on here are spinning bearings reving just past 6k. So far the evidence looks like dirty head/cam installs are killing shortblocks.
Old 06-23-2010, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Still waiting for proof that RPM kills these motors. Drag racers are running their stock shortblock cars north of 7k rpm's for seasons without any issues while people on here are spinning bearings reving just past 6k. So far the evidence looks like dirty head/cam installs are killing shortblocks.
I second that Spin mine to 6800 rpm with no issues.
Old 06-23-2010, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Still waiting for proof that RPM kills these motors. Drag racers are running their stock shortblock cars north of 7k rpm's for seasons without any issues while people on here are spinning bearings reving just past 6k. So far the evidence looks like dirty head/cam installs are killing shortblocks.
What I should have said was it just seems to be more common/likely for something to fail at those higher RPM's vs just adding more ponies to the stock redline. But no matter what you do it depends on how well everything is built/put together, obviously.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Still waiting for proof that RPM kills these motors. Drag racers are running their stock shortblock cars north of 7k rpm's for seasons without any issues while people on here are spinning bearings reving just past 6k. So far the evidence looks like dirty head/cam installs are killing shortblocks.
Its actually a pretty well known fact that the stock rod bolts stretching under the forces of high RPM are a common cause of bearing failure. They are the weakest link of a stock bottom end. Give me some ARP rod bolts and fresh bearings and ill go twist an otherwise stock bottom to 6800 all day.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeliusZ28
Its actually a pretty well known fact that the stock rod bolts stretching under the forces of high RPM are a common cause of bearing failure. They are the weakest link of a stock bottom end. Give me some ARP rod bolts and fresh bearings and ill go twist an otherwise stock bottom to 6800 all day.
I still haven't seen any reputable person say that. I've actually heard otherwise by someone I would trust on the subject which is why I raised my rev limiter to 7k. The rod bolt myth popped up a year or 2 ago after someone assumed lt1's use the same rod bolts as the 97-00 ls1's.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:43 PM
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If your not at least checking the bearings and the rings in the shortblock on a higher milage engine when you do a H/C swap it is just flat out stupid to me. Take the thing out and throw new bearings in the thing, you already have most of the stuff out or disconected anyway. It gives you a chance to see if your going to have a problem or not. That way you don't loose money on a cam and lifters that you may not be able to use again if it blows up.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jaycenk
If your not at least checking the bearings and the rings in the shortblock on a higher milage engine when you do a H/C swap it is just flat out stupid to me. Take the thing out and throw new bearings in the thing, you already have most of the stuff out or disconected anyway. It gives you a chance to see if your going to have a problem or not. That way you don't loose money on a cam and lifters that you may not be able to use again if it blows up.
There's a huge difference between a short block with 114k and a short block with 200k.
Old 06-23-2010, 10:25 PM
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Last edited by JasonShort; 06-24-2010 at 08:07 AM.



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