LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok, gang, i am stumped! I have been dealing with my car cutting off on me for months now. i have a 99 ta with heads cam lt's x pipe, full tune, rear o2 deletes, 92mm intake and big mouth tb. ok, my car has died on me while driving before the intake and throttle body and tune. everytime i take it to a mechanic, it works fine and never gives them any issues.

while getting the car tuned, the car went lean every run at 4300 rpm, so i replaced the fuel pump assuming that was the issue for the car sputtering on me and losing throttle response. well, no that didn't work. i had 2 o2 codes for inactivity or something and 2 tps codes. the tuner tuned them out, said it will work fine and i was on my way. car was driving fine and everything for about 3 miles. then the sputtering and stuff started again. i replaced the tps. the codes are gone and i have no ses light. but, my car still has very terrible throttle response, and the idle dropped to maybe 900 to 400 to almost shutting off, but after i played with maybe every wire in the damn car, i cut it back on ten minutes later and the car idled fine for maybe 10+ minutes no problems. i revved the heck out of it to see ifr the idle would drop like it had every time before then. it didn't. but my throttle response was still the same terrible sputtering lag. im lost u guys, i need some help. i really need to get this car fixed after a drunk driver totalled my brand new car a couple of weeks ago.

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

Have you checked the spark plugs/wires?

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

it is an issue with either(or a combo of) fuel, air, or spark. replace the fuel filter they're cheap. plugs and wires wouldn't hurt either.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Mass air flow..

98hc4mula

iTrader: (5)

check all your grounds. that may be a problem....make sure the grounds are seated and have good contact...

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok, fuel filter has been replaced with the fuel pump. i have replaced the wires that were touching the headers and the spark plug that went to that specific wire. yet, i still have one plug cover touching a header (1 7/8). i'm not sure if there's any way around it. i am not sure what all grounds i need to be checking. i was looking at grounds near my fuses, battery, and one homemade looking ground by the distributor. now there looks like a pretty thick braided line spliced into another line in my pcm... im assuming thats the pcm tucked back in the engine bay on the passenger side. that ground is not connected. but it never has been connected and the car has driven fine for a while.

the main two things i tampered with before the idle corrected itself was the maf and the pcm ground. i wiped a lil moisture from the maf connector. its also the stock maf, is that an issue with the 92mm parts?

87gnx

iTrader: (3)

did you scan it ? if not might try it and see what comes up. $.02

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You have stock maf?

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

yep, stock maf i really hope that would be the problem, but i scanned it when there were actually codes. whatever the problem is, its not throwing a code because my computer comes back passed. my idle is now dropping to 400 rpm after i rev it and hunting around there. so thats what i mean. yesterday i'd rev the hell out of it and it would stay at 900 like its supposed to. throttle response is still sputtering instead of revving like normal. is this a tuning issue or hardware issue?

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Does not sound like a tuning issue to me.

MAF will not always throw codes if you are having problems with it.. Having a stock maf will not hurt anything, you usually have more problems with aftermarket MAFs.

Unplug your MAF and drive it around/let it idle/rev it/etc and see if it is still doing it. If the problems persist, your MAF is good. If you are problem free, your MAF is bad.
The MAF unplugged will not run as good as one with a good MAF but it will run TONS better than it is while having problems.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok. thanks for the advice. i can't wait to get off of work tomorrow already just so i can see how this goes. i didn't even know you can ride without it. i have to broaden my imagination with mechanics. so the maf would determine which issue? the sputtering when the throttle is pulled, or the hunting of the cam for an idle. I am really concerned that people keep telling me the fast 92 tb is "just works like that"..... there's no way cars are driving around like that. the idle hunting isn't so bad being that it hasn't ever cut off on me while in neutral.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You can... If it bad though, you don't want to ride around for 3-4 weeks with it unplugged though, replace it asap of course.

If the MAF is bad, it could cause all kinds of weird issues. Simply put, a bad MAF will make a car run like COMPLETE ****!!! You will have a sack load of problems.

Anybody who says a FAST 92 TB "just works like that" needs to be slapped. Your tuner isn't saying that is he? It should not be surging at idle nor should it be doing any of the other things.

What are the specs on your cam?
Did your tuner tune out the rear or front o2s? Dumb question but you never know.
What kind of front o2s do you have? Are you using extensions or corvette o2s?

Just let me know how the MAF goes and answer to those questions.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

lol, hey at this point nothing is a dumb question. I have oem 02's i don't know if they are the originals or not, i am not the 1st owner. But I do have extensions on but my tuner has tuned the rear o2's out. I was getting an inactivity code for i believe was my front o2's. But he tuned the codes out because he said since my rars were non functional with race style lt's, the front o2's weren't going to get any info.... but aren't the front o2's dealing with the air induction and reporting it to the pcm? maybe im wrong

the cam is the tsp torquer 3 cam: 231/234 .643"/.598"

i'm going to test the car in a little while. It's hot as hell with no a/c.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Ok, if I read that right.. You are using extensions for the o2s (I would suggest going to corvette o2s). The rear o2s are tuned out, that is fine.
Did he delete the codes for the front o2s or did he tune the front o2s out?

You have to have front o2s!!!! If your tuner said that, find a new tuner. Period. The front o2s are the important ones and definitely do get information. If you have some extra o2s lying around that know are good, put them in and see what that does. I am leaning still towards the MAF but your o2s might be shot. If your tuner tuned out the front o2s all together somehow for some reason, that is your problem.

If the MAF "project" doesn't work... Try to get your hands on some o2s you know are good. Or buy corvette o2s from local parts store, plug them up and see if it solves your problem. If it doesn't solve your problem, take them back (or keep them if you want). Report back with the MAF results and the answers to ^^^^ questions.

That cam should not be an issue to tune.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok, i just test drove the car w/ and w/o the maf hooked up. the idle sounded so healthy and steady once i took the maf connector off. the throttle response is great at idle. I tried to pushed the pedal a little since i had response back. NO GO!! I don't get it. it feels like i have 20% of my engine power getting to the wheels. with the maf hooked up, the car was terrible, really bad for the minute or so i drove around with it on. Without it, the car generally was ok until i tried to push on the gas pass slight acceleration. In idle, the car will rev as high as i want. but while driving even w/o maf it always feels like once i push the pedal down, the car is holding back and then it will sputter sputter sputter on down the road.

for the record, my rear end is shot!! like i expect it to break any time. That wouldn't stop the engine from putting power out to it so i guess it's not the issue.

As far as the o2's, I really don't want to lie on my tuner, but i could swear the codes i got was for the front o2's that both were saying inactivity. He deleted the code and i'm sure the rears are gone. But the tuner told me if the o2's totally failed i would get an ses light for them. I may have to just buy the 02's and the maf just so that i know they work.

I also bought the big mouth tb from someone used just the throttle body. My stock cable and sensor was used. Would this cause any trouble? It's wierd because initially, the car cut off on me before i got any tuning, tb, or fast intake. Maybe the o2's are the issue. I have always had o2 codes, i just figured it was because of my off road headers.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Replace the o2s and the MAF. Those two should hopefully get you back up and running again. I would highly suggest corvette o2s, they are around 120$ at local parts store. You can sell your extension on here for some cash though, you will not longer need them. I would buy a used MAF off of here probably or if you must the parts store, a stock one! If you replace one and it fixes all problems, take the other ones back..

I would probably call your tuner before anything and find out if he tuned the front o2s out, or the codes.


BTW... When it is "sputtering" (is it loading up?/dumping fuel (strong smell of gas)) is it through a certain RPM range? Does it clear up above 4500RPMs or so? Does it do it before 2000Rpms? Explain in more detail..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If any of the spark plug wires is touching a header pipe....you're screwed. You MUST not allow any of them to touch, period.

If you have to, take a razor and cut away some of the plug boot in that area where its too thick and is touching the headers. Only what you need, don't go too deep into the boot.

.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

I missed that... You should be able to angle the all in a position where they are not touching the header, just play with it some.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok, i'm going to have to play around with this stuff before it gets dark. i don't believe the car discriminated with rpms, i'm going to run out and do it really quick. the front o2's are the ones just before the tranny on the headers right after the downpipe right?

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

also, i smell a little gas, but i have dumps, so i guess those fumes are the norm? but yes under a good load, that's when the "sputtering" start. there is no signs of burns or arcing on the wire, so it should still be good right?