mightyquickz28

iTrader: (8)

I took out my T56 last Sept to replace it with a TH350. Now I bought a new solid hub clutch from Clutchnet but it doesn't have an engraving or mark on it saying which side faces the motor or transmission. It's been too long since I took it out for me to remember. The disc is flat on one side while the other has the splined hub sticking out about 1.5". Which side goes towards the transmission on an LT1?
Thanks,
Dave

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Top picture goes to the flywheel.

mightyquickz28

iTrader: (8)

Many thanks Bro!

mightyquickz28

iTrader: (8)

I think this is incorrect. After buttoning everything up, the engine strains to start(won't) with the clutch pedal untouched. Press the clutch to the floor, it starts up right away. After it's running, if you let the clutch out, even a little, the motor labors down. If you let it out more, it binds enough to kill the motor. I think that protruded hub is binding on that collar over the input shaft. Pressing the clutch pedal lets it free and it can at least spin.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

I dont think it'll go on the wrong way will it? Wont the extended hub hit the flywheel and keep it from sitting flat? I know my LS7 clutch disc only went one way.

J.

BALLSS

the "raised" part goes to FW...if it was a sprung hub that is the 'raised" side and fits in the recess of FW.

IMHO CN makes a good product.

mightyquickz28

iTrader: (8)

Yeah. Those guys told me the opposite.
Great...
Oh well... Next weekend I'll get to do it right.

BALLSS

well one would think it goes as the advice you followed....non sprung disc may install both ways on the LT1 but a "sprung" hub won't.

pics of my CN "sprung" hub...the raised part faced FW side..

mightyquickz28

iTrader: (8)

I guess tolerances are so close that even w/o the spring assembly, that extended hub still needs to go to the flywheel. When I first cranked it. it made a small squeal but labored on, trying to start. But quickly, it pulled down the motor so that I thought the battery was dying. I got some jumper cables and jumped it. It tried to start with a little more authority but still couldn't spin quickly enough to actually start. I sat there for a few seconds trying to fathom what the problem could be. I knew the only question mark I'd had all along was the orientation of the disc. Then, I decided to push the clutch pedal and start it (the clutch/neutral safety switch went bad in 98 and has been bypassed since then). It cranked right up. But letting out the clutch progressively pulled the rpm's down until it died. I tried it 3 times with the same result. The gears shift fine. The differential/driveshaft turn freely when it's in neutral. I think it's that extended hub binding on the collar of the input shaft when the clutch pedal isn't depressed.

BALLSS

would certainly been easier if CN put a "FW side" marking but they don't. at least on my LT1 disc as yours.

If it had been a sprung hub I seriously doubt it would have even bolted up.

Inspect your TO bearing. I suspect the disc hub spline bottomed out on the backside of the TO bearing.

weird the clutch even works with your disc in backwards.