LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Bottom End Died, have a few questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-04-2010, 09:42 AM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
97pontta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default Bottom End Died, have a few questions

Well on my way home from work last weekend my car started knocking really bad. Got it home and checked the oil level and it was full. Hoping the knocking noise was something other than the bottom end I checked the flywheel, harmonic balancer and any other item that could possibly have come loose and make a knocking noise. No such luck, changed the oil and found plenty of metal shavings (some fairly large and shinny) on the magnet of the drain plug. Have yet to cut the filter open and inspect but I'm 99% sure its a bearing.

Right now I do not have time to do a rebuild from scratch. I found a local guy with a complete stock LT1 that was rebuilt with new bearings, fresh valve springs and other items (he is looking through the receipts for a list of parts), crane rockers and a LT4 Hotcam for a great price. The engine has not been fired up since the rebuild.

My plan is to get this rebuilt engine and swap my ported heads, LT4 Extreme Duty timing set, and 1.6RR (all have about 35K miles on them) onto it and get a custom cam from LE with new springs and some LS7 lifters. This would allow me to get the car back on the road and use my knocking engine for the rebuild I really want in a few years. Sell off the LT4 hot cam and 1.6RR to help pay for the LE cam.

My main question is about the rebuilt stock engine. I have yet to get the parts list for this engine, the guy is digging them up this weekend. I want to be sure to upgrade the bolts on both the mains and rods if they already haven't.

I know the stock crank and rods were used in the rebuild so I'm not sure what aftermarket ARP bolts/studs can be used. I also plan on putting in a new oil pump for cheap insurance. So what are my options for ARP hardware for the stock main and rod bolts?
Old 07-04-2010, 09:51 AM
  #2  
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
 
SS RRR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 11,006
Received 518 Likes on 374 Posts

Default

If you use different bolts on the mains and rods you must have the main caps machined and the rotating assy. rebalanced.
Old 07-04-2010, 09:58 AM
  #3  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
97pontta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Ok, that is the kind of info I was looking for.

What is the reason to machine the main caps? I can understand why the rotating assy needs to be rebalanced if the rod bolts were removed.
Old 07-04-2010, 12:01 PM
  #4  
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
 
SS RRR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jackstandican
Posts: 11,006
Received 518 Likes on 374 Posts

Default

Same reason. The new bolts will most likely not position the caps in the same exact location therefore the bearings will not fit correctly. Very crucial when considering a few thousandths of an inch clearance. Stock main cap bolts will work just fine for what you are doing. This is why whenever work is done on the bottom end to put caps and bolts on the same locations they came off.

Last edited by SS RRR; 07-04-2010 at 12:14 PM.
Old 07-04-2010, 02:05 PM
  #5  
TECH Enthusiast
 
brucer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

ive replaced bolts with studs a couple times..
Old 07-04-2010, 02:08 PM
  #6  
TECH Addict
 
fleetmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 97pontta
Have yet to cut the filter open and inspect but I'm 99% sure its a bearing.
I wouldn't even bother cutting the filter open. You already have your answer with the knocking and the junk on the drain plug, unless you just want the excercise.
Old 07-04-2010, 02:28 PM
  #7  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
97pontta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by fleetmgr
I wouldn't even bother cutting the filter open. You already have your answer with the knocking and the junk on the drain plug, unless you just want the excercise.
Ya, I kind of know what I will find in there. Just thought I would do it for the experience and to see the extent of the damage.

Another question, would I have to replace the lifters due to the bearing failure? I assumed I would as they are hyd lifters and have oil in them. They also have 35K miles and have been working fine.
Old 07-04-2010, 08:23 PM
  #8  
sbs
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
 
sbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 102
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Why screw with a freshly rebuilt shortblock?

If it was done right, install it. If it wasn't, don't buy it.
Old 07-04-2010, 09:30 PM
  #9  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
97pontta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by sbs
Why screw with a freshly rebuilt shortblock?

If it was done right, install it. If it wasn't, don't buy it.
I agree with you. I guess I'm trying to see what to look for to make sure it was done right, if not how much trouble to make it work.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:52 AM.