Hard Shifts
#1
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Hard Shifts
I went to the track, and I can get to 1st to 2nd kinda rough, but sometimes I can't even get 3rd, every gear is rough to get into. Anyone know what could be the problem.
#2
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Damaged Transmission (Hard Parts)
Damaged/Worn Clutch Assembly (pressure plate, flywheel, friction disk)
Damaged/Worn/Leaky Clutch Master Cyl and/or Slave Cylinder
Worn/Dead Clutch Fluid
IMO you probably have driven the car with the issue or bought with the issue already there and if it was caught early it would have been fine to just replace parts or swap fluids but now your getting it in all gears more or less.
Looks like you damaged hard parts and time for a rebuild, and when you do said rebuild it will be time for new Clutch/Slave/Master and Pilot bearing.
Damaged/Worn Clutch Assembly (pressure plate, flywheel, friction disk)
Damaged/Worn/Leaky Clutch Master Cyl and/or Slave Cylinder
Worn/Dead Clutch Fluid
IMO you probably have driven the car with the issue or bought with the issue already there and if it was caught early it would have been fine to just replace parts or swap fluids but now your getting it in all gears more or less.
Looks like you damaged hard parts and time for a rebuild, and when you do said rebuild it will be time for new Clutch/Slave/Master and Pilot bearing.
#3
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I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave, and fly. So I think it is just time for a rebuild, can you give me any estimates on how much it would cost?
#6
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I hear yea, if you can remove your own, thats half the cost. R&R of any part is helpful. Also you need to crate the trans and ship via freight so there is some hassle there UNLESS your close and can drive it over.
Also I would recommend a bump from the most basic rebuilds as it replaces the majority of common issues with the T-56.
Also I would recommend a bump from the most basic rebuilds as it replaces the majority of common issues with the T-56.
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#8
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Go to any place that has Pallets and most are willing to give them away. See if you can get some wood blocks, and screws long enough and then tie it down. Some places I forget actually sell Metal straps that can bend to fit and you sheetmetal screw them in. I AM NOT SURE if you need to build a wall or top for it, but I think you do. Also need to be completely drained of fluid.
#12
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I mean it will go in the gear just a lot of force necessary, and its almost no fun going to the track with it because they way it is its like a 50/50 shot I get 3rd
#13
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try this:
put your car in first gear with the clutch pushed in. Make sure you are on flat ground, then rev your car to 5000+rpms and hold steady. If the car wants to creep forward than its a hydraulic issue most likely and not an issue with the transmission.
#16
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Gravity Bleed the clutch, thats the best way.
Get the car on jack stands. Disconnect Line from the slave. Fill up the res and let it work down through the C/M. As you start getting a steady stream, then plug the line back in the slave.
Then proceed with a Bleed, have a friend help. DO NOT PUMP THE C/M
Make sure the Res is full as well. Have him press and hold down the clutch. You crack the bleeder loose , then tighten and have him pull the pedal up (manually if needed). Then repeat 2 more times. THEN refill res. and see if its there, if not repeat again.
that is the best way.
Get the car on jack stands. Disconnect Line from the slave. Fill up the res and let it work down through the C/M. As you start getting a steady stream, then plug the line back in the slave.
Then proceed with a Bleed, have a friend help. DO NOT PUMP THE C/M
Make sure the Res is full as well. Have him press and hold down the clutch. You crack the bleeder loose , then tighten and have him pull the pedal up (manually if needed). Then repeat 2 more times. THEN refill res. and see if its there, if not repeat again.
that is the best way.