hot cam kit for lt1? whats involved?
#1
hot cam kit for lt1? whats involved?
im wondering if i should get a hot cam kit for my 94 firebird formula its got the stock firebird lt1 with the corvette lt1 cam, valve springs and roller rockers, and bigger vette throttle body...plus a bit more. the work was done to the car before i bought it. i was just wondering what exactly i need to have this done and what other parts or mods or tuning do i need?
#3
where should i get the tune done?
#5
does the engine have to come out? how hard would this hot cam installation be? how much messing around will it be to get it running right or is it a straight forward install and go type deal?
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#8
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I would start by picking up a Haynes repair manual for the 93-97's and read up on the engine section. It's not the greatest repair manual out there but they cover the cam removal & instal well enough to give you an idea of what tools are needed and what all is involved. On a scale of 1-10 on skill required I'd give this one a 7.5
#9
I would start by picking up a Haynes repair manual for the 93-97's and read up on the engine section. It's not the greatest repair manual out there but they cover the cam removal & instal well enough to give you an idea of what tools are needed and what all is involved. On a scale of 1-10 on skill required I'd give this one a 7.5
#11
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Back it on up a minute.
Before you go diving into things you need to know what you have.
Apparently someone misinformed you along the way. The Corvette LT1 was THE SAME as the f-body LT1 with the exception if the main caps.
The Vette cam and TB are THE SAME.
If the person you bought the car from was so stupid as to buy stock castoff Vette parts and throw them at the cazr the first thing you need is someone competent to go through the car with a fine tooth comb to find out what other raging stupidity might be lurking.
After that the HOT kit is not worthwhile, you already have roller rockers and the kit valvesprings might be OK for lighter LT4 valves but are NOT sufficient for the heavier LT1 valves. GM sold them with the kit because they were and existing part number NOT because they were best. Valvefloat is the the factories way of keeping rpms down.
If you decide to dive in yourself the HOT cam might not be a terrible idea, cheap way to get some experiance. If you are going to pay labor, pay a little extra and get a modern cam. The HOT cam was meant for reliable additional performance nearly a decade and a half ago, in that time springs have come a LONG ways which has allowed cams to come a long ways.
If forking out the substantial cash for the labor on this spend the few hundred extra to "do it right, do it ONCE".
If you DIY with the HOT cam is is a cheap learning experience and you will likely dive back in later when you want more.
My first cam was an even milder ZZ4 crate motor cam, was nice and mellow passed as stock sounding was a nice performance bump. Don't regret it for a moment, but since then I have swapped cams and heads two more times and at this point the tech guy is starting to tell me what mods I need to do next, none of them are for more HP either.
Before you go diving into things you need to know what you have.
Apparently someone misinformed you along the way. The Corvette LT1 was THE SAME as the f-body LT1 with the exception if the main caps.
The Vette cam and TB are THE SAME.
If the person you bought the car from was so stupid as to buy stock castoff Vette parts and throw them at the cazr the first thing you need is someone competent to go through the car with a fine tooth comb to find out what other raging stupidity might be lurking.
After that the HOT kit is not worthwhile, you already have roller rockers and the kit valvesprings might be OK for lighter LT4 valves but are NOT sufficient for the heavier LT1 valves. GM sold them with the kit because they were and existing part number NOT because they were best. Valvefloat is the the factories way of keeping rpms down.
If you decide to dive in yourself the HOT cam might not be a terrible idea, cheap way to get some experiance. If you are going to pay labor, pay a little extra and get a modern cam. The HOT cam was meant for reliable additional performance nearly a decade and a half ago, in that time springs have come a LONG ways which has allowed cams to come a long ways.
If forking out the substantial cash for the labor on this spend the few hundred extra to "do it right, do it ONCE".
If you DIY with the HOT cam is is a cheap learning experience and you will likely dive back in later when you want more.
My first cam was an even milder ZZ4 crate motor cam, was nice and mellow passed as stock sounding was a nice performance bump. Don't regret it for a moment, but since then I have swapped cams and heads two more times and at this point the tech guy is starting to tell me what mods I need to do next, none of them are for more HP either.
#12
Back it on up a minute.
Before you go diving into things you need to know what you have.
Apparently someone misinformed you along the way. The Corvette LT1 was THE SAME as the f-body LT1 with the exception if the main caps.
The Vette cam and TB are THE SAME.
If the person you bought the car from was so stupid as to buy stock castoff Vette parts and throw them at the cazr the first thing you need is someone competent to go through the car with a fine tooth comb to find out what other raging stupidity might be lurking.
After that the HOT kit is not worthwhile, you already have roller rockers and the kit valvesprings might be OK for lighter LT4 valves but are NOT sufficient for the heavier LT1 valves. GM sold them with the kit because they were and existing part number NOT because they were best. Valvefloat is the the factories way of keeping rpms down.
If you decide to dive in yourself the HOT cam might not be a terrible idea, cheap way to get some experiance. If you are going to pay labor, pay a little extra and get a modern cam. The HOT cam was meant for reliable additional performance nearly a decade and a half ago, in that time springs have come a LONG ways which has allowed cams to come a long ways.
If forking out the substantial cash for the labor on this spend the few hundred extra to "do it right, do it ONCE".
If you DIY with the HOT cam is is a cheap learning experience and you will likely dive back in later when you want more.
My first cam was an even milder ZZ4 crate motor cam, was nice and mellow passed as stock sounding was a nice performance bump. Don't regret it for a moment, but since then I have swapped cams and heads two more times and at this point the tech guy is starting to tell me what mods I need to do next, none of them are for more HP either.
Before you go diving into things you need to know what you have.
Apparently someone misinformed you along the way. The Corvette LT1 was THE SAME as the f-body LT1 with the exception if the main caps.
The Vette cam and TB are THE SAME.
If the person you bought the car from was so stupid as to buy stock castoff Vette parts and throw them at the cazr the first thing you need is someone competent to go through the car with a fine tooth comb to find out what other raging stupidity might be lurking.
After that the HOT kit is not worthwhile, you already have roller rockers and the kit valvesprings might be OK for lighter LT4 valves but are NOT sufficient for the heavier LT1 valves. GM sold them with the kit because they were and existing part number NOT because they were best. Valvefloat is the the factories way of keeping rpms down.
If you decide to dive in yourself the HOT cam might not be a terrible idea, cheap way to get some experiance. If you are going to pay labor, pay a little extra and get a modern cam. The HOT cam was meant for reliable additional performance nearly a decade and a half ago, in that time springs have come a LONG ways which has allowed cams to come a long ways.
If forking out the substantial cash for the labor on this spend the few hundred extra to "do it right, do it ONCE".
If you DIY with the HOT cam is is a cheap learning experience and you will likely dive back in later when you want more.
My first cam was an even milder ZZ4 crate motor cam, was nice and mellow passed as stock sounding was a nice performance bump. Don't regret it for a moment, but since then I have swapped cams and heads two more times and at this point the tech guy is starting to tell me what mods I need to do next, none of them are for more HP either.
#15
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There really is no general "best" cam. There is a best cam though for your setup depending on many things.
How much power do you want to end up having?
What drive-ability do you want?
What other mods do you plan on doing?
How many miles on your stock internals may be a reason to upgrade some parts with a lot of wear.
If I were you I would look into either the LE1 or LE2 setup which would be a better choice and give you more potential out of your car then the hotcam would. Search LE1 or LE2 to find more posts and info about them to see what people are making for power with what other mods.
How much power do you want to end up having?
What drive-ability do you want?
What other mods do you plan on doing?
How many miles on your stock internals may be a reason to upgrade some parts with a lot of wear.
If I were you I would look into either the LE1 or LE2 setup which would be a better choice and give you more potential out of your car then the hotcam would. Search LE1 or LE2 to find more posts and info about them to see what people are making for power with what other mods.
#16
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Go with the cc503 its is pretty much the same as the hotcam only it makes a solid 15-20 more hp. As far as it being hard... Hmmmm well I was not very expereinced when I had my 93 z28, but I read up on it for about 4 months before and got to where I knew everything I had to do before I even touched the motor. This was when I was 16 years old and I did everything perfect so as long as your very carefull and really want to do things the right way you should be fine. If I were you I would go with the cc503 cam and get a set of beehive valve springs good for .625 lift. You will also need some hardened pushrods and a gasket set.
#17
Go with the cc503 its is pretty much the same as the hotcam only it makes a solid 15-20 more hp. As far as it being hard... Hmmmm well I was not very expereinced when I had my 93 z28, but I read up on it for about 4 months before and got to where I knew everything I had to do before I even touched the motor. This was when I was 16 years old and I did everything perfect so as long as your very carefull and really want to do things the right way you should be fine. If I were you I would go with the cc503 cam and get a set of beehive valve springs good for .625 lift. You will also need some hardened pushrods and a gasket set.
#18
Im basically in the same shoes as the OP. Ive been researching cams while saving money for a cam. Ive also decided to go for the cc503 cam.
As far as parts, i know ws6store has a gasket kit for installing cams. For pushrods and lifters, id try Speed-Eng or any sponsor here.
For the tune, im pretty much screwed since i live around 2 hours from the closest decent tune shops that i know of.
Let us know how it goes.
As far as parts, i know ws6store has a gasket kit for installing cams. For pushrods and lifters, id try Speed-Eng or any sponsor here.
For the tune, im pretty much screwed since i live around 2 hours from the closest decent tune shops that i know of.
Let us know how it goes.
#19
Im basically in the same shoes as the OP. Ive been researching cams while saving money for a cam. Ive also decided to go for the cc503 cam.
As far as parts, i know ws6store has a gasket kit for installing cams. For pushrods and lifters, id try Speed-Eng or any sponsor here.
For the tune, im pretty much screwed since i live around 2 hours from the closest decent tune shops that i know of.
Let us know how it goes.
As far as parts, i know ws6store has a gasket kit for installing cams. For pushrods and lifters, id try Speed-Eng or any sponsor here.
For the tune, im pretty much screwed since i live around 2 hours from the closest decent tune shops that i know of.
Let us know how it goes.
#20
11 Second Club
After that the HOT kit is not worthwhile,