sako

Hey guys
Im new here and new to the ls engines, so please explain in detail.
I have a 69 camaro.It had a 383 supercharged that took a crap on me so i want to do the ls swap.
I bought a LM7 5.3 complete without tranny, alternator, starter and a/c.
I want to do the LS6 intake with a cam.
1.If i put on the ls1 water pump and the ls1 alternator bracket with alternator and p/s pump, will the crank pulley and line up?
2. Does the ls1 and 2003 5.3 alternator have the same bolt patern and electrical connection?
3. It does not have a computer. if im using the LS6 intake and zo6 cam and 5.3 harness, what computer do i need and whats compatable?
I will be using a modified 5.3 harness, without the a/c and everything else that i dont need will be taken out.
I have lots of questions and lot of work so please help me out.
I will be running this engine with a manual 4 speed muncie till I can save some cash for a TKO 500/600.
If there is something I should know or consider, let me know.

Thanks for the help

vandejr

iTrader: (12)

ill chime in on what i know and came across.
if u use the ls1 accessories u will need need the ls1 crank pulley as well.It wont line up its about 3/4 smaller the a truck pulley.
2.as for the pcm i would use the one out of the same truck.(i got a 02 5.3 pcm if anyone needsone).
3.as for the alternator the plugs are the same for early years that ive came across,just that some ls1 alternators are smaller in diameter.
Hope this helps some.

sako

anybody out there running a 4 speed muncie with a 5.3 or any ls engine?
will i have any issues doing it? and how would i hook up the manual tranny linkage from the 69 to the 5.3?

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I'm running a tremec 3550, but what I did should be compatable with your muncie. On my block (iron 6.0), just above the oil filter there was, what I would refer to as an unused boss, which I drilled and tapped. There was a bolt hole on my bell housing, which is the same bell housing I used with my gen I 350/muncie combo, that accepts the ball stud from the z bar. I just made up a plate to go between the existing bolt hole on the bell housing and the hole I drilled and tapped on the block with an elongated hole in the middle to give me a little adjustablility. The z bar attached to the middle hole on the plate. hope that makes sense.

Now take this with a grain of salt because I had some issues. I lost my clutch last week. After timing all the lights so i didnt have to stop I limped my car home and I pulled my tranny. I found that the front bearing retainer/front cover of my tranny was gone, and the inner portion of the throw out bearing was damaged from excess heat.

What I believe happened was the outer portion of the fork, where the adjustable rod from the z bar goes was hitting the toe panel. This was creating stress on the fork, and because of the angle of the toe panel it was pushing the outside of the fork down, which caused the inside of the fork, where the throw out bearing sets, to push up against the staft of the front tranny cover that the throw out bearing rides on. This, over time wore everything away. That is my theory at least. It took over a year for this to happen. So I'm in the process of putting everything back together, with a shorter fork, and a longer throw out bearing. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed!!!

But thats how I got my z bar to work. Hope that helped. Good luck!!

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

Just below the rear most head bolt is the boss I drilled and tapped.

sako

is that the ls1 camaro pan. did it clear everything ok with no issues?

Thanks for sharing your ideas and experience.

Redrumls

I have a Muncie behind my 6.0 in my 68 camaro. Got a flywheel from mcleod just for that conversion & has the bolt pattern incase I want to switch to a 6spd. The flywheel you have to use is 11" or larger, I used 11" & 11" bellhousing. Use an external slave cylinder, hydrolic set up, it all works great & works real well behind my 6.0!

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is a 98-02 f body pan. It cleared all my suspension without a problem, steering turns lock to lock without anything hitting. I used the hooker mounting plates that were recommended with the hooker headers.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

can you give me some specifics for your hydraulic clutch set up, manufacurer and or part numbers, if available. if my z bar "fix" does not work I'm going to have to go to a hydraulic set up and I have no idea what I'm going to do if I go that route. how did you mount the slave in relation to the fork?

Redrumls

I had a old 11" truck bellhousing(cast iron) I had to use, it worked out pretty good, it has a spot on the side of it where i can
Mount something, so I made a bracket to mount the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is cnc & you can get them online or the car shop, it's got an adjustable push rod that works out real nice. Wilwoood clutch resivore, had to make a heavy duty mounting bracket for the firewall & an adjustable rod for the clutch pedal. You are going to run into clearence problems with the resivore right under the master cylinder, I had to re do my brake lines. Just letting you now some of the obsticles, the made it sound easy on the forum, but didn't say anything bout all the little thing as it varries from car to car. But it was worth it, there is not to many people putting muncies behind ls motors, I like it & it works great.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, and if you dont mind me asking, what did that setup cost you?

sako

Redrumls what gears are you running?
What your RPM's like on the freeway?
Im really looking into the t56. I really want the overdrive to save some gas.