LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

1998 Z28 Camaro

So I know my compressor is shot and I plan on replacing it... so far I have purchased a new compressor, compressor lines, accumulator/drier, orifice tube, and condenser. So far the only things I haven't replaced are the evaporator and the line running from the evaporator to the condenser (this is the hose that contains the orifice tube). I pulled out the orifice tube and was shocked at what I saw...



It is caked with metal particles... I removed most of the metal particles and it now actually looks like an orifice tube hah



So my question is since I haven't replaced my evaporator or this line that the orifice tube is in should I have these replaced as well? Is my evaporator shot or did the orifice tube stop the flow of metal to the evaporator?

Thanks!

fleetmgr

Your system needs to be thoughly flushed, by someone that knows how. The lines don't need replacing, nor does the condenser or evaporator.

Put your new stuff on (not the orifice tube), and take it to a shop to have it finished up.

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the advice!

I just bolted in my new compressor, condenser, and accumulator/drier into the car and left the connections open on the evaporator while leaving the plastic seals on the drier/condenser connections. I distributed the PAG 150 oil as follows: 2oz - Compressor / 1oz - Condenser / 2oz - Accumulator/Drier. There is 3oz left in the bottle that I'll have the mechanic put into the evaporator after it is flushed... I used a syringe for measuring and distributing the oil.

Wish me luck! Can't wait to have my a/c flowing in this summer heat!

fleetmgr

Putting the oil in the condenser was a waste...It'll be flushed out.

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

Since the condenser is brand new will it need to be flushed as well? My plan is to only flush the evaporator and the evaporator tube. I have 3oz left that I'll put in the evaporator once it's flushed.

fleetmgr

The shop doing the flush will add all the oil the system needs when they charge it.

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

SUCCESS!!

I got everything back from the shop and it is blowing nice and cold

Overall this probably cost me just under $1000 with buying and assembling all of the parts myself... just paid the shop to flush the evaporator/evap tube and charge the system. It's definitely not cheap but SOOOO damn worth it!

Thank you for your help fleetmgr!

Slash8915

iTrader: (21)

Damn, we're all having AC issues...

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

heh true that... it's definitely that time of year.

The A/C has never worked since I got the car (2007). The original owner said that he evacuated the system to remove the compressor for installing the headers... When I went to have it recharged I found out the system was fucked.

I decided I wanted to get it fixed before I put it up on the dyno because it does put a load on the engine and does affect the tune (especially at idle). I just dropped the car off with the tuner (Engineered Victories in Michigan). So far so good!! Now I'll have some HP/Tq numbers come Wednesday

Slash8915

iTrader: (21)

Nice! I just had to replace my compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. Only cost me around $500 for the parts, and to have a shop do all of the work as well as flush/recharge the system. I got off lucky. But even if it had cost $2000, I live in Texas... I'll be DAMNED if I go without ac...

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

wow $500 for parts/labor/flush/recharge? Sounds like a good deal to me! I almost spent $400 on the compressor alone. I wanted to go with a brand new OEM replacement as I've read some of the aftermarket replacements are hit or miss... I called up the dealer and if I were to have done what I did at the dealership it would have cost me $3000. I live in Michigan so it doesn't get as hot here as it does in Texas but my black camaro is like a furnace... I can deal if I'm cruisin with the t-tops down but once I'm stuck in traffic or getting cut short at the traffic lights I start to sweat like a Wildebeest in this heat.

slow

iTrader: (7)

The seals get old on these cars and then leak, a low charge is responsible for more than 1/2 of the compressor failures.

A full re-seal of the system would be a good idea in my opinion for any 10 year old f-car. I just wish you could find a good AC shop who will evacuate the system and measure the amount of r134a in the system for a reasonable price. The shops around here, the "ac check" is just throw a gauge set on it, and look at the pressures. The compressor seals are not readily available either, forcing you to go with a $400 new compressor (through the discount retailers, vs the 700-900 at the dealer)

Ryan

beerwhiskeyjoe

You only really need to split the oil between the compressor and accumulator, put in what ever the specific compressor calls for and then put the rest of the system requirement in the accumulator. I know you fixed yours but incase someone searches this thread, you at the very least make your system less efficient putting oil in evap/condenser, or at most can shorten life of the compressor.

Some oil will get there from the A/C running but sure as hell not 5 oz between the two.

Also next tiem if you don't want to pay $500 for someone else to do it, you can buy cans of chemical flush to run through your a/c at parts houses that do the exact same **** they charged you for. Just spray it through your lines and follow it up with some dry compressed air to blow it out. Then rent vacuum pump and a set of gauges from autozone and you have way more beer money left over.

beerwhiskeyjoe

Using gauges is every bit as accurate and some times more accurate than charging by weight, unless the person doing it doesn't know wtf they're doing. I'd personally focus more on determining their competence and honesty more than the equipment they use.

LS-1Z28

iTrader: (6)

I distributed the PAG 150 oil exactly as it stated on the instructions that came with the compressor. But honestly I'm not sure it matters all too much how you do it because the oil makes its way throughout the entire system eventually anyhow.

As for the flush/final assembly/recharge I was charged $200 which might have been a little expensive but I wanted to make sure it was flushed thoroughly by a professional. I called around to the local shops and none of them knew much about flushing the a/c system and some of them really didn't understand why I wanted it flushed ... I tried flushing the evap tube with some flush from AutoZone and compressed air but it wasn't cutting it. I was still able to take a swab sample from the tube and find contaminants. So I ended up finding a shop nearby that specializes in this type of work and they got the job done right.

fleetmgr

Not true at all. The oil in an A/C system circulates freely thoughout the system (including the evap and condenser). It won't shorten the life of a thing, nor will it make it any less efficient...it's designed that way.