Pretyflywiteguy

I have a few burnt wires in my column which I almost positive is the reason my car will not crank. It clunks like it has a dead battery. The starter is brand new and the old one tested fine. Following the wires back to the connector clip they go to K L and M. What are each for? Cruise control I know for sure and 99% sure its the ignition switch.

Is there a right up to geting to those wires and/or is there a quick fix to alleviate the hassle involved with a new wire harness? I just installed a push button starter but it does the exact same thing still. I'm stumped..

Thanks for any positive input.

The mechanic I took my car to the first go-round with it said my motor was locked up. He concluded this in under 30 minutes of me dropping the car off. The guy is a friend of my crazy grandma..

Back story for those interested:
It had been acting up a little bit for about a week or two prior to it finally giving up. The car had over heated but never in the red. I have a 160* tstat and I only let it get to about 215-30 before I shut it down. Oil needed to be changed due to it being about 4 months since but was still under 3K miles. This problem slowly crept up on me over the course of two years which is how log ago the cruise control shorted out. I pulled the fuse and forgot about it. It finally crapped out when I pulled into CVS bought a pack of smokes and some gum, got in the car turned the key and it slowly turned and then just clunked. Not my best Friday night.

I think I was a little long winded there.. sorry.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Not a writeup but I can give you a what to expect spiel:

You'll need:

-Torx to remove the 4 fasteners on the back side of the steering wheel- relases the airbag and radio controls
- a steering wheel puller next
- snap ring pliers (retainer ring on the yellow airbag cable reel)
- Lock plate tool (usually part of a good steering wheel tool kit); compresses the spring & plate so you can use a small pick to get the retainer split ring off the steering shaft

Now you're in the column bowl. Black screw on the left releases the turn signal arm and the tab slides out.

You'll see the turn signal cancelling cam along with the yellow wires for the airbag; their wires run along the bottom of the bowl into the column.

Remove the 3 screws that hold in the turn signal cam and wiring for its switch.

Remove the torx bolt that holds the ignition lock cylinder in place. You'll also see the orange/ white wires for the VATS attached to the lock cylinder. Pull out the lock cylinder very carefully- don't damage the VATS wires (quite thin).

The key-in-ignition buzzer is smal and white with 2 brass fingers on it- You don't need to remove it unless it's damaged... if so: push down the tab that snaps it into place with a flat screwdriver via the ignition lock hole and slide it forward into the bowl and set it aside.

Remove the trim panel under the wheel/ column. Remove the supplemental panel brace and then lower the column by removing its two bolts (V-shaped bracket). Follow the column to where you see wires coming out. There is a clear platic tab about 1 1/2 " wide, inserted up the column and it guides the wires. This is pain to get out- I call it the chastity belt. Pinch it and wiggle it while massaging the sires to slide it out toward the front of the car. Now you can disconnect turn signals, airbag wire, VATS wires (single solid orange down here).

Have fun!

Pretyflywiteguy

appreciated.. another fun filled saturday

shbox

There are no wires going up the column for the ignition switch, because it is not up there. It is on the lower part of the column. It is actuated by a metal rod from the key cylinder.

If it still "clunks" with a push button, it does not sound like the switch (it would have been bypassed at that point). Try jumping the terminals on the starter to see if it will crank. If not, it's the starter, not enough voltage to it or your mechanic is right.

Pretyflywiteguy

ac compressor was seized. dealership broke it loose and got it to fire but come to find out i need a new fuel pump. yay. whatever its been too long I will be getting babygirl back soon.

ebeard

^^ I just did the trap door method for changing the fuel pump. It was alot easier than dropping the rear end IMO. May not be for you but here is a write up. Good luck

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-mod-pics.html

LT1

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear it wasnt your engine that seized!

Pretyflywiteguy

Yeah, did this with a friend about a year ago. I don't have a garage to work in anymore considering I live in an apartment complex so I'm paying someone to do it $800 later.. and I should have my car back on the road. No A/C but I can live without for the time being.