Strange S60 rearend fitment ?????
07-28-2010, 02:38 PM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Strange S60 rearend fitment ????? Looking to purcahse the following but had some concerns: Strange S60 Its in great shape no problems at all. It has a Detroit Trutrac, 35 spline axles, and 4:10 gears....So will my stock LT1 brakes hook up on this rearend, wasn't for sure if it was going to be compatiable or not. Any info would be great on this install, thanks
07-28-2010, 03:00 PM
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a 3 channel, does 3 channel sound right, I actually know nothing about rearends! I pulled mine out one time to freshen it up and fix my yolk seal leak...So every thing should be a plug and play sort of thing though right? It's out of a 2000 Camaro SS!
07-28-2010, 03:39 PM
#5
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please let me know what's involved, thanks. I dont want to have to customize **** without knowing before hand really because, well it's a pain in the *** at a moments notice. Thanks guys!
07-28-2010, 05:19 PM
#7
Looking to purcahse the following but had some concerns: Strange S60 Its in great shape no problems at all. It has a Detroit Trutrac, 35 spline axles, and 4:10 gears....So will my stock LT1 brakes hook up on this rearend, wasn't for sure if it was going to be compatiable or not. Any info would be great on this install, thanks
The axle bolts right on just like the 10 bolt you'll be taking out. But there're some issues ya definitely have coming at ya.
And my advice is to call Strange... 847-663-1701. Tell them what car it came out of, what car it's going into and so on.
My S60 did not come with any brakes, so I had to order the brackets which the calipers mount upon...
I THINK... the E-Brake mechanism is different on the LS platform from the LT setup.
If you ask, they'll tell you about the drive shaft mods. The S60 housing is larger, thus the DS needs to be shorter. I was told by some friends that there are shops that can cut the old DS down to spec. But I opted to buy a new aluminum one from PST, who Strange recommended. I don't recall the actual dimensions, but the new drive shaft, like the Dana itself was a fair bit larger in diameter than my old aluminum DS, and it was around $4-500, but man it was worth it...
I was on my second rebuild of the old ten bolt... so it was nice to finally have something under her to take the abuse we heap on her.
Hope that helps...
Trending Topics
07-28-2010, 06:00 PM
#8
Hey:
A few ?s & things to ponder
94bluz28, You need to verify it is a 3 channel S60 or your ABS will not work right.
Also if it has LS1 rear brakes and you can keep them, now is the time to upgrade your rears to them, as AC stated they are different than LT1 rears. LT1 rears are smaller and fit under 15x10 drag wheels better but don't stop as good as the LS1s do. You just need go to the LS1 fronts as well soon, as they (LS1 rears) are almost as big as the LT fronts and will change your f to r brake bias.
Do you have an adjustable TA, PHB and LCAs as you may need them to get everything squared up. It would be a good time to do this as well, if you don't mind spending the extra cash now. UMI & BMR are good as you already have some of their (BMR) stuff, and Founders on Ebay are good as well, if you are getting tight on cash.
Leave a little something in your budget, for your drive shaft needs cut, shortened, and for the drive shaft to be rebalanced too, a good drive shaft shop locally can do this. A good time to upgrade the drive shaft to an Empire or Denny's if you can swing it. Or if you have an alloy LS1 drive shaft time to have it modded to a thicker wall seamless alloy tubing, as it will now be the new weak link in your drive train. If your on a budget just get the LT1 DS you have balanced and cut, and freshen the u joints.
Good luck, and have fun.
Dub
A few ?s & things to ponder
94bluz28, You need to verify it is a 3 channel S60 or your ABS will not work right.
Also if it has LS1 rear brakes and you can keep them, now is the time to upgrade your rears to them, as AC stated they are different than LT1 rears. LT1 rears are smaller and fit under 15x10 drag wheels better but don't stop as good as the LS1s do. You just need go to the LS1 fronts as well soon, as they (LS1 rears) are almost as big as the LT fronts and will change your f to r brake bias.
Do you have an adjustable TA, PHB and LCAs as you may need them to get everything squared up. It would be a good time to do this as well, if you don't mind spending the extra cash now. UMI & BMR are good as you already have some of their (BMR) stuff, and Founders on Ebay are good as well, if you are getting tight on cash.
Leave a little something in your budget, for your drive shaft needs cut, shortened, and for the drive shaft to be rebalanced too, a good drive shaft shop locally can do this. A good time to upgrade the drive shaft to an Empire or Denny's if you can swing it. Or if you have an alloy LS1 drive shaft time to have it modded to a thicker wall seamless alloy tubing, as it will now be the new weak link in your drive train. If your on a budget just get the LT1 DS you have balanced and cut, and freshen the u joints.
Good luck, and have fun.
Dub
07-28-2010, 06:18 PM
#9
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I have all adj BMR goodies, I need a new rearend to go with my new trans and the NOS I'll be spraying, just looking at listings and found one that is reasonable with a trade and a gun. Just a drive away. I didn't really want to swap over the brakes at this time because well that's even more money. I do have some brand new 15x3.75 and 15x10 Race Pro Stars chilling in the garage as well. Just looking to see what was all needed, If I can get away with just shorting the drive shaft for now then that would be fine. How necessary is it to have the ABS is the question because it is a channel 3. I've pulled the rear out and that's cake but I want it go back together the same more or less with a beefed up rear!
07-28-2010, 06:41 PM
#10
Hey:
No ABS issues if both are 3 channel, just swap your brackets as stated before on to the S60 and put the LS1s back on your old rear, you have to pop the axles to do this, if I recall correctly, but it might have been because I had c clip eliminators on my old rear, Its been awhile since I did this. but I think that (brake brackets), gear lube, brake fluid/bleeding and the drive shaft shortening/ u joints, are all you need to really worry about to get things going again if both are 3 channel. Just confirm the 2000 SS does not have the extra set of brake lines for traction control.
Dub
No ABS issues if both are 3 channel, just swap your brackets as stated before on to the S60 and put the LS1s back on your old rear, you have to pop the axles to do this, if I recall correctly, but it might have been because I had c clip eliminators on my old rear, Its been awhile since I did this. but I think that (brake brackets), gear lube, brake fluid/bleeding and the drive shaft shortening/ u joints, are all you need to really worry about to get things going again if both are 3 channel. Just confirm the 2000 SS does not have the extra set of brake lines for traction control.
Dub
07-28-2010, 07:59 PM
#11
If the rear has the later LS car brakes, you’ll need to go to the dealer and get a pair of E-brake cables. GM part number 89032173, 17 bucks each at Parts Taxi. They’ll hook directly to the front cable T-bar up in the drive shaft tunnel. You gonna get dirty. For the hydraulic lines, if they’re not yet with the rear, you’ll need to make them up. Iso flares at the center hose, bubble flare at the caliper hoses. The center hose is the same as the LT1 setup. Go with all new hoses, cheep to buy and we rely on them so much-and nobody ever changes them. Don’t forget all new copper crush washers-make sure you get the old ones out of the calipers!
The LS rear calipers are slightly larger on the outside so some wheels might not fit. Using the LS rear brakes in a LT1 car will require you to get the later master cylinder as the LT1 car master has a residual pressure valve that’s needed with the pull-back springs in the LT1 calipers.
The rear rotor and caliper piston sizes are virtually the same. The only real benefit going to LS brakes is they have a way better parking brake. They’ll lock up your wheels. LT1 style parking brakes really suck.
For all the trouble it is, I’d suggest you stick with the LT1 brakes that came with your car. Put them on your new rear.
I just did the swap to LT1 rear brakes on my ‘99 to clear some drag wheels I have so I just went through all this.
The LS rear calipers are slightly larger on the outside so some wheels might not fit. Using the LS rear brakes in a LT1 car will require you to get the later master cylinder as the LT1 car master has a residual pressure valve that’s needed with the pull-back springs in the LT1 calipers.
The rear rotor and caliper piston sizes are virtually the same. The only real benefit going to LS brakes is they have a way better parking brake. They’ll lock up your wheels. LT1 style parking brakes really suck.
For all the trouble it is, I’d suggest you stick with the LT1 brakes that came with your car. Put them on your new rear.
I just did the swap to LT1 rear brakes on my ‘99 to clear some drag wheels I have so I just went through all this.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 07-28-2010 at 08:44 PM.
07-29-2010, 01:20 PM
#16
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are you dead set on a S60? im pulling my moser 12 bolt here in a bit since no one wants to buy the complete car as a roller. 3 channel, LT1 brakes, driveshaft included. Pm me. plus im in iowa 
07-30-2010, 10:02 AM
#17
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problem solved Ended up being my damn oil pan causing the drop in oil pressure at WOT! Pissed me off! Yeah I got a stepped pan with baffles and a trap door and the pressure is perfect! The oil apparently was climbing the back of the pan and up the block or some ****. My new Flt level 4 on the way and all problems will be done and over with!
07-30-2010, 10:24 AM
#18
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright guys came across damn near the same deal with a dana S60 that's even closer to me and it's set up for the LT1 already. Backing plates already setup, ready to install in the car. The guy said it's still in his 96 Firebird and it takes the stock driveshaft. The only modification that was made was to the back of the torque arm. We both have BMR adj TA and he said he had to grind the *** end of it more or less. Apparently strange or BMR have a template guide for the grinding for this particular rearend.
How much different is it going to be to drive this car from going from a stocker with 3:73 to Detroit Trutrac, 35 spline axles, and 4:10 gears....Is this a bad setup for a auto, lol? I mean I plan on having it at the track most of the time but still want to be able to drive it down the road if I want to as well.
How much different is it going to be to drive this car from going from a stocker with 3:73 to Detroit Trutrac, 35 spline axles, and 4:10 gears....Is this a bad setup for a auto, lol? I mean I plan on having it at the track most of the time but still want to be able to drive it down the road if I want to as well.
07-30-2010, 12:04 PM
#19
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Track wise -if you are running a 26" tire your going to top out at 115 @ 6k in 3rd gear. where as you would be doing 125 @ same rpm with the 3.73 gears. cruise wise-there is only about a 200-300 rpm difference at 70mph between the 2 gear sets. and driveability wise.....you might want to buy stock in tires, because they are going to be nothing but smoke when you lay the peddle down lol
