AW794

iTrader: (7)

EDIT***********11/10/10 dyno https://ls1tech.com/forums/14104943-post77.html
EDIT****** 9/25/10******* Startup vid at post 61

The story:
At the track i mis-shifted and there were multiple ticks, squeaks, and whatnot after. Friends were there to help me diagnose the problem at the track. Clearly i bent some pushrods, and some valves. I was almost sure that a lifter or 2 was gone aswell, taking the cam out and sending metal through the engine.

Well after over a year, ive finally got the itch to get the car running again. I have verified the bent pushrods and valves. Luckly for me the lifters were still intact! Now that im sure i can re-use the stock 75k mile bottom end, it should go a lot quicker. (and cheaper!)

The plan:
I have a set of ported 241's with oversized 2.055 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves. W/ patriot .650 springs
New Cometic MLS head gaskets .040
Thunder racing Trex cam 242/248 608/.612 110lsa +2
New GM Ls7 roller lifters
Ls2 lifter trays
New GM Timing chain
New LS6 oil pump
New GM "cam swap" gasket kit
I have yet to order pushrods, because i need to check the length once its assembled.
Fly cutting will be 100% necessary. Im going to borrow a "in head" piston flycutter, to get the valve relief i need.

The Goal:
Im trying to build a higher compression top end. Its going to be tough trying to get the 241's where i want them. A local engine builder is working with me to achieve my goals.

Disclaimer:
This is my first go at something this major in an LS1. I dont have any physical help, so this build will drag on for awhile. I will be asking questions as i progress, hopefully someone is interested enough in my build will respond...lol

Now on to the pics. This is only after 6 hrs (in 2 days).




Intake, waterpump, powersteering pump out of the way


poor little guy


Head off.


Almost looks like its already fly cut!




The heads surprisingly look okay. Im sure the valves are bent, it left a pretty heafty mark in the piston you see above.


other head off


More smacking on the passanger side aswell


Taped off for the night.

Thats all for today!

Question:
What do i do with the AC condenser for the cam swap?
75k on the factory water pump, should i replace it?

Thanks for looking!

garygnu

make wind chimes from the old push rods.use a shop vac or rags to remove coolant from the bores.drain the oil pan.clean the carbon off the pistons.use scotch brite pads to clean the block deck.oil the clean cylinder bores .

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

At that mileage, replace the water pump.

Condensor can be bent up out of the way in order to pull the cam. I just tied it to the hood. Careful though, do not over-stress the lines.

NINO_SS

iTrader: (7)

Check knock sensors also what about your rockers?

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

my dad leaned on the lines during my install and there was an immediate leak in the lines. be careful with them.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Yea im worried about the liquid line (i think thats what it is called)

Rockers are fine. Im going to reuse the stockers

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I just lifted the condenser enough to get it beyond the core support and let it hang below. I have done that (3) times now with no leaks kinks or failures. I also let the power steering pump hang upside. The top is seal and shouldn't leak. Mine was laid up for 5 days and didn't loose 1 drop of fluid.

Make sure you clean the threads for the head bolts. I grounded down (2) stock head bolts and cleaned them out for a few hours. I also rolled up paper towels to get the coolant and gunk out of those holes.

Good luck with the build!

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the comments! Along with bolts and rags, I plan on using compressed air to clean out the bolt holes. I think im going to clean before i drop the timing chain cover, to stop any little parts of the old gasket from getting in there.

garygnu

you can get new rocker arm trunions from compcam,and blow out the the head bolt holes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!you will probably have to flycut the pistons with that cam,get a custom cam the fits better and make better power.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

I am definitely going to have to fly cut. I already have the cam, no looking back now.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Well i made some more progress last night. It involved a ton of cleaning. Here are some before shots





I used a combination of different tools to get the engine deck clean. First i tried a plastic ice scraper like the one ls1howto suggested. That was a ******* joke. After that failure, i upgraded to a razor scraper. Now i dont recommenced this to someone who has never used one before, as its VERY easy to dig into the soft aluminum block. I have a lot experience using a razor scraper (rebuilding Detroit Diesel blowers) for several years. I finally got most of the left over head gasket material off the block. For the little bit that was left i used this tool LIGHTLY. I cant stress this enough





This is another situation, where experience comes into play. Its a 3m roloc bristle disk. Ive noticed many people have mixed emotions on using them. I however do not, and it got the job done. Again, i am well aware of the risks associated with using the roloc disks.





After using the roloc disk, I used a piece of 220 grit sand paper and a flat sanding block to finish the deck and give it a uniform finish.

Here are closeups of the pistons after i used a razor blade to scrape the carbon buildup off.





you can still see the numbers. Im not sure what they represent, maybe weight?



One last shot before i begin taking PTV measurements, and fly cut accordingly

Thats all for this update. Thanks for looking!

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

nice job

bene

iTrader: (16)

I am too doing a heads and cam swap however I'm just doing it 2hrs/day after work and probably 4-6hr on the weekends. First timer also, so getting my cherry popped in every aspect of this project. GL.

Just took off the valley cover and the heads today and will be cleaning the gaskets/bolt holes tomorrow after work tomorrow. Should be a fun day ahead of me.

98PurpleT/A

iTrader: (16)

Goodjob. It cleaned up real nice

We used the green ones at my dealership all the time with no problem. You just can't hover in one spot for an hour.

garygnu

slowly tune the engine over a little bit at a time and wipe all the bores clean.

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

looks like your pistons are allready flycut

A20SVT00

iTrader: (13)

very nice work ,wow ls1 engines are amazing what can i say i was getting the lt1 fever but im changing my mine

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

you might want to think about adding an up-graded pinned crank damper to your list. While your in there it's a good time to replace it.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

Nice job have fun!... just an fyi for ya. Take a wet vac to the waterpump holes before you pull the heads and there will be a lot less coolant mess!


why pinned? hes not running a blower. Your right though, if he wants an underdrive pulley now is the time. That crank pulley is the biggest pain in the *** on a cam swap. Everything else is pretty easy. Well the gaddamn oil pump bolt is no fun. When you reinstall the oil pump put a rag in the pan so WHEN you drop the bolt it doesnt roll down... haha. Definitely take your time on the head install to make sure you got the coolant out of every bolt hole and the threads are clean.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the comments / suggestions guys! I was considering an under drive pully, but if i cant find a used one for cheap, it wont happen. I cant justify the money for only 5-10 hp at most.

The bolt holes are pretty much ready to go. I soaked them in brake clean for awhile then blew them out with compressed air a few times. Ran the old headbolts in there with ease, then rinsed again.

I planned on doing the rag trick with the oil pump. I also have a magnetic socket that could be useful in that situation


Flycutting will happen tomorrow! Stay tuned