HAL R-series shocks settings for track and street? Lower the front?
01-21-2004, 10:06 AM
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HAL R-series shocks settings for track and street? Lower the front? I did a search, and didn't find enough support to give me an idea of where to set them or if I should lower the fronts.
For the track, I was thinking maybe a 1 or 2 in the front and say a 4 on the LR tire and a 5 on the RR tire? Is that about right?
For the street I was thinking maybe 6-8 in the fronts, and 3 in the rears?
I also thought about lowering the front of the car, but it'd look kinda wierd w/o lowering the back too. If it helps handling/launching if I lower the front, then I'm all for it.
For the track, I was thinking maybe a 1 or 2 in the front and say a 4 on the LR tire and a 5 on the RR tire? Is that about right?
For the street I was thinking maybe 6-8 in the fronts, and 3 in the rears?
I also thought about lowering the front of the car, but it'd look kinda wierd w/o lowering the back too. If it helps handling/launching if I lower the front, then I'm all for it.
01-21-2004, 12:54 PM
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lowering the front is going to be counteractive to your goal i believe.
im having quite an issue with mine hooking at the monent, and i believe it has everything to do with the front being too low. you really want the rear of the car to be lower than the front under hard acceleration, planting the tires w/ the weight of the car. anything you could do to make this easier on the front of the car (since this end requires the majority of the energy to lift) would be what you would want. basically keeping it level, if not a tad higher than the rears. look at alot of the stock rige height f-bodies. seems like the wheel gap is more in the front that the rears. odd..
this is why the "2" setting in the fronts allows the car to lift more (regular hals) you basically want 50/50's in the rear and 90/10's in the front. w/ all else considered equal.
best of luck to you.
im having quite an issue with mine hooking at the monent, and i believe it has everything to do with the front being too low. you really want the rear of the car to be lower than the front under hard acceleration, planting the tires w/ the weight of the car. anything you could do to make this easier on the front of the car (since this end requires the majority of the energy to lift) would be what you would want. basically keeping it level, if not a tad higher than the rears. look at alot of the stock rige height f-bodies. seems like the wheel gap is more in the front that the rears. odd..
this is why the "2" setting in the fronts allows the car to lift more (regular hals) you basically want 50/50's in the rear and 90/10's in the front. w/ all else considered equal.
best of luck to you.
01-23-2004, 08:01 AM
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On the street I would go all the way stiff or stiff -2.
I took my car for a test drive and forgot I had my from shocks at -5 on both sides, I stomped on the gas, the front lifted and came down, I scraped the oil pan/k-member. Nothing bad I could just hear it scrape. Bumpy roads will also cause your nose to bouce if your front shocks are too loose. I would just keep them on full stiffness, +12 on my QA1's, for the street. When I race at the track I set them to both to -8 (8 clicks towards looseness) on each side. Also I have QA1 front drag springs.
For the rear, I would set them the opposite, I set my rear QA1's on full looseness +2 towards stiffen. If you stiffen them too much on the street you will be bouncing up and down out of your seat. The looser your are on the street the better your shocks will absorb bumps etc in the road. I added +2 click to stiffen to help with traction on the street but I wouldn't go more than +3 clicks total. At the track depending if I need help hooking add a few more clicks to the rear. I used to run +5L & +7R, I went +7 on the right before I added the wolf sway bar, now I run them both +6/+6 or +7/+7.
You will have experiment with different settings at the track and see what gives you the best 60 foot. There is alot of ET that can be picked up by tweaking your suspension. I have a very mild motor only making 404 RWHP and I cut 1.39 60's on motor when I get my suspension dialed in at each track.
Lee
I took my car for a test drive and forgot I had my from shocks at -5 on both sides, I stomped on the gas, the front lifted and came down, I scraped the oil pan/k-member. Nothing bad I could just hear it scrape. Bumpy roads will also cause your nose to bouce if your front shocks are too loose. I would just keep them on full stiffness, +12 on my QA1's, for the street. When I race at the track I set them to both to -8 (8 clicks towards looseness) on each side. Also I have QA1 front drag springs.
For the rear, I would set them the opposite, I set my rear QA1's on full looseness +2 towards stiffen. If you stiffen them too much on the street you will be bouncing up and down out of your seat. The looser your are on the street the better your shocks will absorb bumps etc in the road. I added +2 click to stiffen to help with traction on the street but I wouldn't go more than +3 clicks total. At the track depending if I need help hooking add a few more clicks to the rear. I used to run +5L & +7R, I went +7 on the right before I added the wolf sway bar, now I run them both +6/+6 or +7/+7.
You will have experiment with different settings at the track and see what gives you the best 60 foot. There is alot of ET that can be picked up by tweaking your suspension. I have a very mild motor only making 404 RWHP and I cut 1.39 60's on motor when I get my suspension dialed in at each track.
Lee