Raben

iTrader: (5)

Hey gang. I'm puzzled as usually. I have nearly same setup as a few of you. . .but at my full weight and not even close to 11s. More like 12.8+


So my question. . .what is the trick you guys did? What exactly did you remove to reduce the weight and still have it as a daily driver. . .etc etc etc. If you don't want to post those secerets here please PM me, it'll be safe.


I'm just curious as from the way I see it. . .if I could turn this car into a mid 11 second car. . ..with a 100 shot of nitrous. . it should hit 10s easily I would think?


Thanks.

And btw here are my mods:
99 Trans Am fully loaded

Ram air mod
EGR Remove from intake manifold
Airbox lifted 1/4"
Throttle body bump stop mod
SLP Air Lid with K & N filter
SLP 85mm MAF
SLP Smooth bellos
Hooker cat-back
TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 stall
3.73 gears
B & M Tranny Cooler
ASP Underdrive Pulley
BMR Lower Control Arms with Relocation brackets
LS1 Edit + dyno tuned by Delk Performance.

Wheels - Ordered two BFG DR's with takeoff wheels from a LS1 Tech Member a few days ago.

I still have the LS1 intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. I plan to do headers but it's a matter of money.

I may just put a off road pipe and cutout. . see what that frees up.


But what you guys think, and what else I need to do to get lower 12s or high 11s on a budget??

Raben

iTrader: (5)

btw I know of the weight reduction list that's on the site. . . .however just looking to see what these people did. Removed everything. . .certain parts. .what?

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

you are going to need a great launch, easily needing a 1.59 or better 60' time. gearing is not very important in an A4 with its great factory gearing internally. most of the 11.99 cars are 3400 lbs raceweight or lower (including driver). a few more mods like LT headers, cutout, and take out some of the interior should result in nice gains. that 3500 stall convertor is kinda small for what you want but should be able to pull the 60' times. et streets will make it a TON easier. it is not easy by a long stretch to run 11.99 boltons but many have done it. what are your 60' times anyways?

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

rear seat w/ seat belts, front seat, front sway bar, jack, spare, egr/air pump, are the real easy ones. drag wheels are more money but def get you an easy tenth of a second right there with the fronts.

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

i bought a no option car took off windsheild washer bottle, seats, 1/4 tank of gas, and those are really the main things for me.

I think all of us on the list are running headers though and also at least LS6 intakes. I'm sure most if not all the passes were made on some type of Drag Radial or Slick.

Raben

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

My last run was on BFG KDW's street tires, full wieght with all my tools (jumper cables, 2 sets of tool boxes, 2T floor jack, then spare +factory car jack) Cd's etc I pulled a 1.86 on my 60' 13.0 for the 1/4 on that run with the car bounceing the reb limiter on every gear. I have that fixed now with more tuning from the shop.

And next time I race, I planned to remove all the tools since I have on order those BFG Drag Radials with take off wheels.

But remove the tools, spare and jacks, and rear seats. And front sway bar. I believe the front sway bar would help in transferring the wieght removed.


But that's it. I'm expecting with current setup a 12.8 to 12.9 if I stayed full weight with all my junk. I could probbaly shave off 200lbs, maybe alittle more by removeing all that stuff.

Hmmm, how much does a fully loaded TA weight to begin with? I know curb weight is either ~3400 or ~3600.

Raben

iTrader: (5)

that was going to be my next question if they were on slicks or not. I thought with slicks we could kiss our rear 10 bolt good-bye.


headers are on my list. . .just coming up with the $$. That's a high investment for a bolt on but it seems it's far worth it though.

So keeping manifolds and LS1 intake manifold. . reducing some weight, I probably won't see 11s. . .but surely, well maybe. . mid 12s or lower?

MARKSZ71

iTrader: (3)

work the first 100 foot thats the key in drag racing

Humanoid

iTrader: (3)

Flame suite on....

"All non-heads, no cam, no n20 11 sec cars have a serious stall and major weight reduction."

Am I wrong? The ones I have seen didnt even have door panels on the inside. If am am wrong it wont be the first time...lol

DMcRacer

iTrader: (2)

You are wrong. I ran 11.97 with a 2600 stall. The only thing removed from the interior was the rear seat, pass seat and floor mats. No spare & jack. Empty windshield washer, no front sway bar.

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Yes, most are light with big stalls, but thats not saying the car has to be a tin shell. When I ran my car last, it had all panels, console,door panels,and carpet in the car.
There are alot of light weight aftermarket parts available for our cars now that make it much easier to get your weight down. My car was a fully loaded T/A when it was new and I've got the weight down around 3200lbs with me in it, and thats with a 6-point roll bar. There is alot of weight that can still come out of the car just haven't gone there yet.
The record for a stock internal is 11.27, but with the aftermarket parts available today I can only see it going lower, it's just a matter of time.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I expect a white Firehawk to go faster this year

CHRISPY

I would go with lightweight drag wheels with skinnies.

26x8.5 inch MT ET Drags.
4000+stall 3.23 gears should work fine
Good LS1 edit tune (Can make a big difference in power)
All boltons and free mods:
t-body bypass
!MAF screen etc etc)
headers with ORY and dual cutouts in the YPipe
lightweight/highflo muffler in the back
!pass seat
!rear seats/belts
!jack and spare and remove the front swaybar
Airbag for right rear at 15#s
manual lockup switch
If you have lots of money for weight reduction
VFN bolton or pin-on hood (38 pounds)
Kmember/A-Arms (~50 pounds)
Lightweight carpet

Great hooking track and good air should be mid-high 11's easily

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

but your car is just so powerful

Raben

iTrader: (5)

so with my current mods and if I remove the passenger seat, rear seats/belts, everything in the trunk, jack/spare and front sway bar. Without the headers and LS6 intake I may yield a low 12 with a good set of drag radials?

And if I slap on some headers, OF-Y with cutouts and maybe the LS6 intake, free up a few extra tenths and dip into the 11s? All NA That would be really cool.

Are any of you running girdles on the stock 10 bolt? Just curious.

CHRISPY

DRs will be tougher to hook but it is possible. Personally I would save up and get the rims/skinnies and slick combo

Raben

iTrader: (5)

But then wouldnt' the next problem I face is snapping the rear? Exactly how much power can it take on the rear before we start facing problems? I range currently (Depending on the weather) on a mustang dyno 315 to 330rwtq.

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

I think some LT headers, Cut-out, !swaybar, !back seats, !spare & jack, and a set of light weight rims with ET streets will get you there. It did it for mine Check out my webpage for some info. on mods I have done. It might help you out.

Colonel

""All non-heads, no cam, no n20 11 sec cars have a serious stall and major weight reduction."

Am I wrong?"

Yes, you are quite wrong. I ran 11.82 with NOTHING removed from the interior. I pulled the spare, jack, and tunnel brace (flimsy piece of metal underneath the car worth 3-4 lbs.) Did it with 3.23 gears and running on drag radials with 17x11" wheels too. Raceweight was about 3550.

11s are pretty easy, IMO.

But to answer the original question, your 1.8 60fts aren't going to get it. You have the converter (and you even have extra gearing that you don't really need), now you just need to use it...TRACTION!

Colonel

One more thing, don't be scared of slicks or ET Steets. Wheelhop is what kills stock rearends and you stand a MUCH greater chance of having it when using drag radials than when using slicks. That's right, slicks are actually safer for your rear at the dragstrip than drag radials. I'm currently running ET Streets with the stock rear. Pulling 1.5s with no problems.