RS777

iTrader: (1)

As the title says. I finished the car (02 camaro ss in a 92 nissan 240sx) and went to drive it around for the first time today. First day out, drove around 2-3 hours no problems at all (no smoke, no nothin). Now I have a P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor code... Car won't start or similar. Any ideas? Its about impossible to get everything back out and the sensor looks to be hooked up (3 wire sensor behind the starter right?)... I know its not going to be good ,but please help.

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Just to reiterate, there is no damage in the wiring or similar. It is plugged up and there is no visible damage to any wire or the sensor

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Anyone? Before I replace the sensor and have to pull the starter and junk back out. Anything I need to check?

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Replacing the Crank Sensor would be the easiest thing to do at this point.

Here is the information for that DTC from the GM service manual. I assume you're using the 02 PCM as well.

DTC P0336

Circuit Description





The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal indicates the crankshaft speed and position. The CKP sensor is connected directly to the powertrain control module (PCM) and consists of the following circuits:

• The 12-volt reference circuit
• The low reference circuit
• The CKP sensor signal circuit

Conditions for Running the DTC

The engine is cranking or running.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

The PCM determines that the CKP sensor signal is out of range for less than 2 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets




The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.

• The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Diagnostic Aids
Important
Remove any debris from the PCM module connector surfaces before servicing the PCM module. Inspect the PCM module connector gaskets when you diagnose or replace the modules. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM modules.

• The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:
  • Poor connections--Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
  • Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage, or improper installation
  • The sensor coming in contact with the reluctor wheel
  • The engine running out of fuel
  • If the crankshaft rotates backwards, this DTC sets. This condition only occurs with vehicles that are equipped with a manual transmission. This condition occurs when a vehicle is on an incline, and the clutch is released and an engine stall occurs.
• Excess crankshaft end play will cause the CKP sensor reluctor wheel to move out of alignment with the CKP sensor. This could result in any one of the following conditions:
  • A no start
  • A start and stall
  • Erratic performance
• An improperly-installed propeller shaft could cause excess crankshaft end play.
• For an intermittent condition condition, refer to Intermittent Conditions .

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
2. This step verifies that the malfunction is present.
3. This step tests for electromagnetic interference (EMI) on the CKP sensor circuits.
6. Vertical lines across the face of the sensor could indicate foreign material passing between the CKP sensor and the reluctor wheel. Non-vertical lines across the face of the sensor may indicate a crack in the CKP sensor. Either of these conditions cause this DTC to set.
7. Damage to the reluctor wheel can affect the CKP sensor output. In order to inspect the reluctor wheel, remove the starter, and rotate the crankshaft while viewing the reluctor wheel through the CKP sensor hole. If you cannot determine if the reluctor wheel is damaged, you may need to remove the oil pan.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Here is the actual trouble shooting procedure. It was too big to copy and paste into the post. Hope this helps.

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, i actually moved the battery back up to the front of the car (trying to rule out any bad grounds, bad connections, etc from it being trunk mounted). I used an obd2 scanner to force clear the codes, and started up the car... ran rough for about 10 seconds, then idled back to perfect (no codes), then 30-45 seconds later went back to rough and died (P0336 thrown again) sad day...

Thank you for posting all that DrkPhx

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

replace the sensor, $45 for one from napa

even if that doesn't work at least you know the sensor is new...that one is one that can leave you stranded if it acts up so I would rather have some peice of mind

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Napa has one by echlin and one by mileage plus. $60 and $52 respectively. Which would you prefer?

Also for those who have asked, it was an 02 camaro pullout... didn't look like any major internal work had been done on the engine (so no custom crank or similar).

They also have one by delphi for $82, just not in stock.

RS777

iTrader: (1)

well, new sensor ordered. I will report back tonight on how it goes. I am going to wrap the headers and that wiring section as well while I have the starter and similar back out (since its such a pain in the butt to get in/out.

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Also sorry for all the questions, will I have to do a crank relearn or something with the new sensor? If so is this something I can do myself? Trying to knock this all out at once. Thanks for your help

RS777

iTrader: (1)

and humility is something I am learning by the cup-fulls lol... i had a buddy (father in law) go through the wiring to make sure i was right and sure enough, the broken section of wire was being held by a zip tie... the 12v wire was broken. Re-soldered everything and the car runs great. No sensor needed. Thank you guys!

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Excellent news. Chasing EFI eletrical gremlins can make anyone eat humble pie. Enjoy the car.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

RS = Robert S...

Sorry I just saw this thread. I'm glad to hear that you got to the bottom of it somewhat painlessly.

RS777

iTrader: (1)

.. Lovin the tune so far. I will shoot over some AFR datalogs and similar. Got a buddy doing some tuning up in Nashville (karma perf?) and I may tag along and see if I can do some dyno pulls as well. Thanks again Frost, spreadin the good news to the 240v8 forums for those looking for a good reflasher

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Hmm, I got the Echelin one at my Napa for $47

glad you got it fixed, my problem was a shorted wire too but I still put the new sensor in just to be safe

now I have an extra

RS777

iTrader: (1)

Yeah probably would have been the smarter idea , but to get the sensor off on these cars it requires pulling the starter, which requires loosening the header, doing the magic dance, using a special swivel socket to get the starter signal wire off (the small one), among other magic as these engines are pretty jammed in the 240. Still plenty of room on the outside of the engine, but when you get to where all the sensors and wires are on the block, the headers engulf everything lol.

o and btw the NAPA around here puts the screws to everyone on their stuff (i guess) because they are the only one in hours around here, but even the oem sensor is only $47 from gmpartsdirect if I wanted to wait.