dhen

Hi,

Does anyone know if these roller rockers

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-V...ts_Accessories

will work with these valve covers?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Ch...ts_Accessories

Thanks,

Darian

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

Not sure if that combo will work together, depends what car the covers are going on. But why go with 3/8" rockers? Get 7/16" rockers with ARP 7/16" studs. A little less deflection, and more stout setup, for a around the same money.

Dub

dhen

Thanks. I was planning on reusing the original studs. Is that a no-go? I'm new to these engines. (I'm not new to cars, though.)

This is for a custom project. I'm swapping an LT1 into a 1984 Jaguar, XJ6.

Thanks,

Darian

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

On the valve covers depends on where the Alternator is being mounted, F body syle requires the valve cover to have a notch, for the Alt, Vette acc brackets do not need this. A custom setup you can relocate the Alt and use the F body acc brackets, then the A/C is usually the problem and needs relocated. Vette brackets, tend to be more friendly for some swaps. Just keep that in mind.

The 3/8" SA would work, and Yes I know people use them but why take a chance on a fatigue failure at a later date. IMHO The 7/16" ARP studs offer a stronger, more durable, and reliable setup, for just forty-sixty dollars more. You don't want to cheap out on a roller valve train setup. Or just leave it stock.
3/8" roller rockers add stress to studs not meant for them. I also do not like SA roller rockers. Go with NSA rockers with ARP studs, trickflow guideplates and hardened pushrods, and it will all fit under a centerbolt valve cover and be more reliable plus give options for a higher performance cam later on.

For example from Jegs:

pro series: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-72...oductId=744892

hi performance: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-71...oductId=744892

And the roller rockers cost about the same wether 3/8 or 7/16" so why not go 7/16" and be done with it.

And use something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sbc-S...ts_Accessories

Dub

dhen

Thanks for your response. Will the 7/16 studs bolt in, or do you have to tap a larger hole in the heads?

Thanks,

Darian

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

The 7/16 studs will serew directly in place of the 3/8 studs,no problems at all..

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.

Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.

Dub

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

you got it!

lt1-xjs

Original studs use the 1.6 s/a promags and the Proform 141-130 covers, a little grinding is needed on the alt to make them fit, very simple. Been there done that.

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

I had a Blk 84 Jag XJ12 with a 350 TPI engine in it. It was a great conversion better than the 12 from Jag any day.
I am sure you have, but in case you haven't check out Jags That Run, they have lots of info about this conversion. And a good manual on prep and installation. Good luck with your build.

Dub

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

i have 1.7 rockers and brand new arp studs for sale..160$ shipped..you then would just need guide plates another 40$.

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

And hardened pushrods.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

^ some cars came with harden push rods..i think ive seen people say there 93s did..i know the ones in my 94 are hardend.

dhen

Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I was planning on using iron heads since the original engine is lighter than an LT1 and the iron heads won't throw off the original weight as much.

I'm told that iron headed engines also have a different cam that would work better for my setup. My car weighs about 4,000 pounds, which is why I'm only going for a mild street build up.

Thanks. I bought a kit from Jaguar Specialties that walks you through most of this. Looks pretty straightforward though I'm not looking forward to some of the wiring.

I want a comfortable daily driver.

Thanks, but I think I'll stick with 1.6 for now. I don't want to have to get hardened pushrods and am doing an almost stock build.

Thanks to all who replied.