Break in new motor with new stall
08-11-2010, 11:03 PM
#1
Break in new motor with new stall Havent found any real good info on this anywhere but I need to break in my new motor with a fresh stall. I know a lot of advice is to beat the hell out of it, but Yank says no WOT pulls for the first 150 miles. Do i need to go WOT to break it in or will a little less throttle be ok? Also what oil do you guys recommend? The most popular choices I see are Rotella, Joe Gibbs Oil, Standard 30 weight and regular 5W 30.
08-11-2010, 11:23 PM
#2
ask whoever did your machine work. i'm about to go through the same thing. my engine guy told me to just use any NON-synthetic oil and start it up and run it for a couple hours and change just the filter. and be easy on it for 500 miles and do a lot of downhill coasting with the rpm's around 3000rpm to help seat the rings and change both oil and filter. then he said after 500 miles give it hell.
08-12-2010, 12:03 AM
#3
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ask whoever did your machine work. i'm about to go through the same thing. my engine guy told me to just use any NON-synthetic oil and start it up and run it for a couple hours and change just the filter. and be easy on it for 500 miles and do a lot of downhill coasting with the rpm's around 3000rpm to help seat the rings and change both oil and filter. then he said after 500 miles give it hell.
Twice I had to get new rings and start over because an easy Break in
08-12-2010, 01:58 AM
#4
i need it to be broken before i get it fully tuned, im getting a baseline tune to get me broken in and finish up little things (rear end, exhaust) and to get me to the tuner. But because of the converter i obviously dont want to ruin it during the engine break in
08-12-2010, 03:01 AM
#5
TECH Fanatic
The convertor has nothing to do with the motor break in, just make sure you put a trans cooler on.
08-12-2010, 11:42 AM
#6
See RamAir95TA's comments in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...rly-break.html
1/2-3/4 throttle blasts should be fine for the converter and the engine. Another member suggested Rotella + Comp additive for the first 20-50 miles. Then change to whatever oil and filter you plan to use regularly, and in your case, drive it with more 3/4 throttle blasts until 150 miles and then start giving it WOT on the converter out to 500 miles and change one more time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...rly-break.html
1/2-3/4 throttle blasts should be fine for the converter and the engine. Another member suggested Rotella + Comp additive for the first 20-50 miles. Then change to whatever oil and filter you plan to use regularly, and in your case, drive it with more 3/4 throttle blasts until 150 miles and then start giving it WOT on the converter out to 500 miles and change one more time.
08-12-2010, 08:11 PM
#7
the only "break in" for the converter is the lock up clutch. a converter is a "fluid coupler" there's not really any initial wear that takes place like you'd find in a tight new motor. i've got some pretty loose bearing clearances and a HV pump and for break-in i've got some genuine vatozone hd-30 in the pan 
i see no reason for fancy break in oil when you should be draining it after the first drive anyways. coasting down hill WILL NOT seat the rings, cylinder pressure seats rings. coasting sucks oil up into the rings to cool them down while everything gets comfy during the first few miles. I take an easy drive around the block to make sure everythings running ok. Let it cool down, then blast around town. I don't see any reason why you can't break the motor in on the dyno 
i see no reason for fancy break in oil when you should be draining it after the first drive anyways. coasting down hill WILL NOT seat the rings, cylinder pressure seats rings. coasting sucks oil up into the rings to cool them down while everything gets comfy during the first few miles. I take an easy drive around the block to make sure everythings running ok. Let it cool down, then blast around town. I don't see any reason why you can't break the motor in on the dyno 