LT1 sludge, suggestions?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Tx
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LT1 sludge, suggestions?
So, I bought a '95 Z28 to use as my DD while I "slowly" redo my '92. The Z28 was only getting 13MPG so I figured I would try cleaning it up some. I put a can of seafoam in the fuel tank, poured half of another can into the crank case and tried to suck the rest of the second can through the brake booster vacuum line, but the engine simply would not run with the line disconnected, so I used a smaller vacuum line (going to the emissions recall thing) I drove it for about 200 miles and then changed the oil. There had already been an oil leak but after running the seafoam I lost almost a quart in a week, I found the source of the leak to be the rear of the manifold. My buddy came over on our day off and we pulled it apart. The 4 bolts/studs on the backside of the manifold weren't tight at all, and the manifold was easily removed by hand once unbolted (my haynes manual states that a prybar will likely be necessary to remove it) once it was off we were in disbelief by what we saw inside. The valley was full of sludge and the underside of the manifold was caked in it, I couldn't believe the car would even run it was so bad. After hours of scraping and using a shop vac to suck it out, we put it back together and immediately changed the oil (again) I think for now my plan is going to be to run a premium oil through it and change it every 2-3 weeks until it eventually comes out clean. Let me know what you guys suggest.
This is the underside of the intake manifold:
I got a quart of sludge from here alone:
This is the underside of the intake manifold:
I got a quart of sludge from here alone:
#5
Rockstar
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dude, that ain't right. That's absolutely horrifying.
My best guess as to why it's like that is the previous owner dumped(or even replaced the oil with) that "stop leak" stuff in there. It's a thickening agent and in mass quantities isn't good for an engine.
You see happy sem's valley? That's how it should look.
Here's mine after 250K miles, granted it's drained of oil, but there's no sludge.
I'm curious as to exactly what caused that if you ever find out.
My best guess as to why it's like that is the previous owner dumped(or even replaced the oil with) that "stop leak" stuff in there. It's a thickening agent and in mass quantities isn't good for an engine.
You see happy sem's valley? That's how it should look.
Here's mine after 250K miles, granted it's drained of oil, but there's no sludge.
I'm curious as to exactly what caused that if you ever find out.
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Tx
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It has about 135k on it. Previous owner also "fixed" a tear in the intake elbow with silicone caulking compound- also encapsulated one end of a power steering line with caulk. Found at least 4 pigtails that had the locks snapped right off- guess he muscled them apart rather than lifting the tab
On the brighter side, the manifold has been back on for about a week and at my last fill- up the mileage was up to 16 from 13, and my oil pressure seems ok (no more leak)
So, what kind of a risk do I run paying a shop to flush it (as in sludge clogging up passageways)? Would that be a better option than doing frequent oil changes with an additive like autorx or something stronger like seafoam?
On the brighter side, the manifold has been back on for about a week and at my last fill- up the mileage was up to 16 from 13, and my oil pressure seems ok (no more leak)
So, what kind of a risk do I run paying a shop to flush it (as in sludge clogging up passageways)? Would that be a better option than doing frequent oil changes with an additive like autorx or something stronger like seafoam?
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Veteran
It's almost better to leave it alone, rather than to risk dislodging all that gunk and clogging something up. I think the Auto-rx product has a record of working slowly, so it might be the best bet. If most of the stuff is baked on and adhered, it is causing less of an issue than circulating lots of gunky oil. You might be surprised what a motor can look like on the inside and still run.
#11
your going to get different opinions on this i dont know if i would leave it or not my self. i have come across this several times and i have my own personal way of dealing with it. however i will not post it becuase i dont want any one damaging their engine becuase advice i gave.
#12
TECH Resident
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In a house
Posts: 856
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#13
#14
TECH Resident
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In a house
Posts: 856
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Run some good engine cleaners in cycles *Brand 1 drive it around for 3-5 days, *Brand 2 drive it around 3-5 repeat if desired and dont use 97 cents a quart oil like the previous owner did.
#15
add a quart of MMO to engine oil and drive it for 1k miles and do couple short oil change with MMO. Use walmart oil or quaker state green bottle or mobil clean 5000, these oil is under 10 dollar for 5 quart.
#17
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get a product called Essentialube from www.essentialube.com. It'll clean it up right purty. FOLLOW the directions.
#18
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Perfect examples as to why you should change oil faithfully and not leave it in for whatever the new fad/ridiculous 7 or 10K mile claim states...
The only way to get rid of all of it is to have the engine disassembled and hot tanked. A flush doesn't do ****.
The only way to get rid of all of it is to have the engine disassembled and hot tanked. A flush doesn't do ****.
#20
8 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
As others have stated, you might have some problems if you mess with it too much.